Question on Quarter Panel Section Repair
Some of you have probably followed our build in the build section on here. You know that we put quarter panels on both sides a couple years back. Well, we are down to the final primer blocking for paint, and I have been struggling to get the wheel arch to look right on the drive side.
When we put the outer wheelhouse patch in on that side, it wasn't quite fitting rigth, and rather than spend the extra time we forced the quarter up on it, clamped it and welded it.
Where the inner lip of the quarter mates up to the lip of the wheelhouse was off by 1/4" or so, it had a gap, so again, we just used clamps and forced it up.
This really distorted the panel alot more than it appeard to. The entire panel is under tension, it has some areas around the wheel opening that are soft, so when you sand over them they just sink in.
So, as bad as I hate to, I am goign to section in the wheel arch from a quarter skin.
Below is the planned cut line. Its a little bigger than it probably needs to be but again, alot of the metal around the wheel arch is pretty distorted and I want to get all of it cut out.
Was thinking of flanging the top horizontal cut line to give some rigidity, and then use the backing strip methons on the vertical cuts.
Originally Posted by turbocobra
This is sad to see since it's about ready for paint. But better now then after paint.
Only problem I might have concern over is if the remainder of the quarter has any distortion to it. There is such a thing as "metal stretch". Normally, this is a condition like if a car was hit in the front and sent damage or ripple to under the back seat area. I know this is not the condition you have but just mentioning.
With the decklid closed and as you begin cutting the quarter, I'd keep checking the gap in the decklid/top of quarter gap, door gap and feel for any distortion in the sail panel. I'm sure you'll be ok.
SamG: if you within range please chime in because I know you've got the most experience with these cars. Thanks.
If you're going to flange it the top would be the place to do it but I'd probably use a backing strip all the way around because the result is less distortion.
If it isn’t too late I have an idea for you to try. It wouldn’t cause any damage because it would be confined to the metal you are proposing to remove. I would make a relief cut horizontally below your yellow tape through the area of tension. I would do it with a die grinder with a 3” thin cutoff wheel. Maybe 10 to 15 inches long, more if needed. Next I would make up a few backer strips a half inch wide by 6” long and with my stud gun weld a pin near the end of the strip. You can clamp a vise grip to the stud to use as a handle and slip the backer into the backside through the cut and twist it into place then insert a hooked tool under the other end of the backer strip and with the hook tool and the vise grip you can put some pulling force on the backer strip and pull the quarter into shape while someone puts a few tack welds in place to hole the shape. Then weld up the cut. If it works you are done, if it doesn’t then go to your original plan.
Len, how wide do you normally cut the backing strip, like 2" to allow 1" under each panel?
Bob, that's not a bad idea... the tension is mostly down around the wheel arch itself. There is a high spot in the area you are talking about, that reveals itself everytime I have blocked it, but there isn't any tension there. But maybe you are thinking a releif cut there will releive tension in the lower part of the panel.
It is too late, already started cutting, cut the spot welds at the inner wheelhouse, going to finish cutting the rest out tonight...
Yes, I cut a 2" strip out of the old panel so that the shape is the same. Tack the middle then half way to the ends then the ends of each cut then tack in the middle of each tack and jump around so that you don't heat one area too much.
Originally Posted by turbocobra