new video up! rocker panels/56 Nomad/ 68 Chevelle/ painting rims

[autobodytech43]

new video up about rockers on pos and humbling experience painting. btw, I didn't want to paint the rims on the table like that but the painter is a jerk and bossy so I did it "his way".

[Jayson M]

If you have a burn thru into your base ,next time over reduce your ready to spray clear by 100%-150% and spray that on the burn thru "BEFORE" you put on your base,it will prevent any wrinkling.That is one thing I don't miss about solvent.

[another2centsworth]

Good video. Get some thin gloves to work the metal and weld. P.S. Real humility is not calling anybody names.
Stay Cool.

[autobodytech43]

Good video. Get some thin gloves to work the metal and weld. P.S. Real humility is not calling anybody names.
Stay Cool.

I do. I have some harbor freight mechanics gloves. They're the best mechanics gloves I've had cause they don't have stitching on the index finger but the material just wraps around it with stitching on the inside. Easy and simple solution to crappy ones. Trust me, even though I didn't have gloves on I'm not getting the kind of cuts I once got. Probably should have had them on though. Been falling in love with them when hand sanding with 40 grits in jambs, window channels, etc. Those gloves are so good I was thinking of just getting 5 pairs to store them.

[SamG]

If you do find something at HarborFreight that you like, first be sure that you like it, then buy up all you can afford...They will change suppliers (and designs) at the drop of a hat or discontinue at item after current supply runs out.

It's not just HF of course. Everyone does it, from Sears to Wal-Mart. Have you bought a pair of Levi's lately in your size just to find out that they're now made in Mexico and the inseam is now 3 inches too long? The pair sitting next to them on the shelf may be made in Costa Rica and fit great but the material is much thinner than before...

[autobodytech43]

If you do find something at HarborFreight that you like, first be sure that you like it, then buy up all you can afford...They will change suppliers (and designs) at the drop of a hat or discontinue at item after current supply runs out.

It's not just HF of course. Everyone does it, from Sears to Wal-Mart. Have you bought a pair of Levi's lately in your size just to find out that they're now made in Mexico and the inseam is now 3 inches too long? The pair sitting next to them on the shelf may be made in Costa Rica and fit great but the material is much thinner than before...

so much for two horses unsuccessfully trying to split a pair of levis in half. Funny that you mentioned that. I thought the same thing about them not carrying them once they're out. They did that to a cool braided wire they had for the angle grinder.

[messmaker]

Great vid. on the nomad.

[MARTINSR]

Good stuff Henry. A couple of thoughts, on the wrinkling, the solvent in the base isn't the problem. Think about it, you could pour that reducer in the can with the clear would it curdle up or anything? Nope, they would mix just fine. How about pouring the paint with reducer in the clear? Again, they would mix just fine (not saying you would ever do this for ANY reason) they wouldn't do anything strange, they are totally compatible in that regard. So the problem isn't that the solvent is there.

There are a couple of reasons this wrinkling happens. Yes, because the base may not be fully flashed. But it isn't because the solvent is somehow incompatible, it's because the film is soft and the solvent from the clear can soak into it. The other reason is simply the base not being sanded of course, so the clear is just "laying" there until it all flashes off and links together (basically).

So when the clear gets sanded thin or thru, the solvent from the next coat of color or clear or what ever is being applied gets basically between the base and the clear wrinkling it. The reason knowing this helps is that if the next product were to be applied much lighter you can create a barrier. Spraying a number of light coats over it, you build up this barrier before a wet coat is applied to finish it off.

You can save some REALLY screwed up stuff with lighter coats, fish eyes, lifting, it is amazing how much you can save.

On the solvent pop, that little gun may be the culprit as much as too big a gun. With the little gun you tend to apply slower and with more overlap to keep it wet because it isn't applying as much material.

Brian

[Jayson M]

It is much easier and faster to spray on a coat of 100% over-reduced ready to spray clear on your burn thru and shoot your base right on top of it with minimal flashtime.This is an approved method by spies hecker and basf,you can also use it as a wetbed for blending.Lighter coats will work but the time factor and adhession level will be questionable.

[MARTINSR]

Jayson, where have you seen any paint company say to over reduce your clear by 100% and then with minimal flash time? That is a recipe for disaster from my experience and is a battened no no from every company I have ever studied. They always simply talk of atomizing the clear better to get it to lay down flatter, never over reducing, at least not by that much.

Brian

[Bob K]

Jayson, I meant to ask you about that also. Did you mean when they say to reduce 5% you would reduce 10% in this instance? That would be 100% over reduced if I get what you’re saying or do I have it wrong?

Bob K

[ding]

Jay is referring to the use of the overreduced clear as a barrier coat or wet bed, like you would use on a blend panel. you can do this on cut threws before applying base to prevent lifting on the cut threw area. In no way is he saying to over reduce the clear like that to get it to lay out better

[Jayson M]

Thanks Ding that is exactly what I meant

[Jayson M]

Jayson, I meant to ask you about that also. Did you mean when they say to reduce 5% you would reduce 10% in this instance? That would be 100% over reduced if I get what you’re saying or do I have it wrong?

Bob K

Simple Bob,mix your ready to spray clear to the equal amount of reducer.So if you have a half pint of clear add a half pint of reducer.Now you have a great wetbed for blending tough metallics or a barrier coat for cut thrus.Obviously you won't need that much,just an example to show you the reduction.

[Bob K]

Thanks Jason, I didn’t know that and never would have even tried it. I’ve used surfacer in the past but then you need to sand and use a more paint to hide plus it takes a lot more time. I’ll give this a try.

Bob K