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Thread: Not the black I wanted (Single Stage)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Default Not the black I wanted (Single Stage)

    Painted underneath the hood and the jambs last evening and the color looked right but as I finished the car it now looks more chocolate brown than black in daylight. Not happy with the color at all. Couple options I'm considering now is to scuff it back down with 600 grit (bit of orange peel and dust anyway) and re do it with the porsche black single stage or maybe use a base/clear system instead to deal with the probable peel and dust that will likely return. Which is easier to cut and buff the ss or bccc? And just for curiosity sake if this current color would have turned out the way I wanted could I have cut out the peel and dust from it with 600 and cleared it a couple times and have the clear fill in the 600 grit scratch or is that asking to much of it? My guess is the scratch would show through even if I mixed the ss black in with clear. On the plus side my blocking resulted in absolute perfect lines and no wavy surfaces

  2. #2
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    Nov 2005
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    What code did you use?Single stage is a urethane,basically a tinted clear,it will cut and buff the same.The best black I have found is Ford UA or even the bluer variant.Orange peel is more for the guy behind the gun not the product,you can apply single stage just as smooth as clear.I like single stage for solid colors as it is usually 2-3 less laps around the vehicle and will cut down on dust.You can just knock down you nibs and gray scotchbrite the rest,or if you are within the recoat window(read TDS) you can just spray right over it.

  3. #3
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    Jan 2006
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    Oh its definitely the guy behind the gun alright no doubt there, I think what happened as far as orange peel goes is it is a cheap gun and didnt do a real super job in my opinion of atomizing the paint not that I'm blaming the gun I'm sure you and several others here could get a satisfactory job out of it I'm just not good enough yet to compensate for it, also I didn't notice until I cleaned my gun that one set of the two air nozzles in the cap was half blocked off with some what dried paint. Probably started to set a bit when I was mixing some more up. I'll watch the air cap closer next time. I'll stick with the single stage and try that Ford UA. I'm out of the recoat window so if I just knock the nibs off and scotch brite it can I spray over the peel and get it to flatten out if my spray techniques are better or do I need to cut it back down and get it flat again for an acceptable finish? I maybe should have tack ragged it off between coats too I suppose.

  4. #4
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    Hey we all have to start some where,everyone gets some texture that is just the nature of the beast .You can't tack between coats of clear or single stage that would make a mess.Maybe try boosting your psi a bit and move closer to the panel.

  5. #5
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    Nov 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by reverend View Post
    Oh its definitely the guy behind the gun alright no doubt there, I think what happened as far as orange peel goes is it is a cheap gun and didnt do a real super job in my opinion of atomizing the paint not that I'm blaming the gun I'm sure you and several others here could get a satisfactory job out of it I'm just not good enough yet to compensate for it, also I didn't notice until I cleaned my gun that one set of the two air nozzles in the cap was half blocked off with some what dried paint. Probably started to set a bit when I was mixing some more up. I'll watch the air cap closer next time. I'll stick with the single stage and try that Ford UA. I'm out of the recoat window so if I just knock the nibs off and scotch brite it can I spray over the peel and get it to flatten out if my spray techniques are better or do I need to cut it back down and get it flat again for an acceptable finish? I maybe should have tack ragged it off between coats too I suppose.
    Scotch pad won't do a decent job of leveling the surface, you should block sand it with some 600 grit wet paper. This will level the peel and allow you to start over.

  6. #6
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    Block sand door jambs with 600 grit wet No thanks,try some norton foam backed 500 grit dry if you need to level the surface.
    http://www.nortonautomotive.com/uplo...-Foam-8085.pdf

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayson M View Post
    Block sand door jambs with 600 grit wet No thanks,try some norton foam backed 500 grit dry if you need to level the surface.
    You're right, I was thinking of exterior paint.

  8. #8
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    Jan 2006
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    Another lesson learned....don't paint on Friday if your local paint supplier is closed Saturday Looks like I'll have to wait til Monday but I'll go ahead and get it ready to reshoot

  9. #9
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    Cutting and buffing single stage is more messy than clear coat and dirties up my pads. The only things I don't like about it.
    [SIGPIC]

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