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Thread: sometimes you gotta carefully think about detail before blaming that China quarter...

  1. #1
    autobodytech43 Guest

    Default sometimes you gotta carefully think about detail before blaming that China quarter...

    I guess I'm lucky cause I got the side with the skin for a 68 Camaro but the driver's side was smashed in as there was some questionable work and evidence that suggested the car was hammered right behind the door. Also behind the quarter inside of the car there was a kink in the panel below where the quarter glass goes. Not an expert on these cars but with the few I've gotten that area seems to indicate a good sized hit on the quarter. We also have a 67 with that same damage. So as the other tech who's really good is blaming the china quarter I'm thinking of why it doesn't fit. So he used a come along from the b pillar(striker pillar) to the a pillar as he hammered it out and then used a porta power to push it out at the front of the striker/b pillar. This was critical being those full quarters wrap around the pillar. This helped some but then he had to use a come along to also pull in the rear decklid opening to get the quarter to lay right( sounds kind of like indirect damage from hit) and also had to make relief cuts in the area where the quarter meets the upper rear body panel seam to make it lay flush with eachother (THAT I blame on China) and also had to modify the decklid opening angle (again I blame on China). To be honest, this is where I thought the Gurus take over and know everything, but I noticed in this trade some guys just start moaning about China molds and some guys just know all the whats and whys. I don't know...sounded pretty obvious to me why it didn't fit but of course there's no replicating the eagle eye and know how of a shop yoda. I try to catch on to all they know but it can't be replicated...but I sure as hell will try!!!!

    Anyhow, any tips or thoughts on 1st and 2nd Gen Camaro quarters? What brands to avoid and what ones are good? For every instance I like to try to cram as much info into my pee brain as possible. Thanks ahead of time for any response.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Montreal area
    Posts
    21

    Default

    You got to consider the fact that the cars of that era usually dident fit that well...
    So the bad assembly, the left over of previous accident, and the aftermarket part quality... it is normal to work hard fitting the body in today's standart... cut-weld-bondo is the cure!
    Smash freak!

  3. #3
    autobodytech43 Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kalamity View Post
    You got to consider the fact that the cars of that era usually dident fit that well...
    So the bad assembly, the left over of previous accident, and the aftermarket part quality... it is normal to work hard fitting the body in today's standart... cut-weld-bondo is the cure!
    thanks for that. Most of my experience with quarters is on newer cars...man what a difference. you cut it out, glue it in, weld here and there, and send it off to paint...not on these old schools! Thanks again.

    What I was hoping for is for maybe a tip on usual things to consider...like common issues and fixes. Just trying to do things efficiently... damn China quarters!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    1,063

    Default

    Are you using the 80% skins or the full oem type quarters?The 80% skins are twice as much work as a full quarter,and the price on a full quarter is about$350.Unfortunately it costs more to use the skins due to labor but some people don't see it that way.There are only one or 2 manufacturers making these panels,but lots of people seem to be using the AMD panels.I have used the dynacorn and goodmark full quarters on a 67,68,and golden legion on a 72,for the most part they are not to bad with minimal tweaking.
    Sorry I realized you used one of each,those quarters are famous for trunk gaps. Go to Team camaro.com and you will find many threads discussing the issues.

  5. #5
    autobodytech43 Guest

    Default

    great advice, thanks. I did the skin and am done with it, but the other side is just never ending for the other guy. He's got it handled but man, there's slices/welds everywhere. there was only two problems with the skin. the body lines that are supposed to meet with the tail light panel didn't line up but I reworked the metal to move it and also the bottom of the wheel well lip didn't meet up with the rocker flange but i think that could be cause it's lapped on the back of the quarter and slightly holding the patch back some. much easier to do it that way and weld two pieces of sheet metal to the rocker flange to make it look flush than open butt welding it back there and having to clean the backside in the trunk.

    btw, what are your thoughts on flanging the old metal panel so the patch is cut right on the bodyline up top as opposed
    to cutting it just below and flanging? The painter loves doing it that way to stop warpage, but the other guy seems to think
    it just means two panels will warp? I think the painter is right and the other guy may me welding to hot. I know for a fact the corner is gonna take the heat better but I'm concerned about the shape of the bodyline being it will be full of welds and grinded down.

    I did mine just below the line had very little warpage and was skimming it anyways so it worked out.

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