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Thread: How to best remove surface rust before Epoxy primer

  1. #61


    What I took away from this is, I guess I don't suffer from as much advanced brain damage as I thought! The people who said 'No bondo over etch' then changed their mind and now its the real issue of reading the tech data before doing anything. This is something the government should do more. Do the actual math rather than spewing conjecture! I think I feel better now, knowing that the research and questions I have asked over the years has paid off. If you have a lot (three entire 50 chevy 1/2 ton trucks) to sandblast knowing it could take 10 years to get to the metal/body work, use the good etching primer to keep them fresh until you are ready. Its a chemical bond, not a physical bond, so absolutely nothing can go wrong over many years. Then, in the future when you are ready to make things happen, read the tech data and do your thing. I am all about people doing their thing! A lot of this is subjective and a lot of you do it very professionally, but YOUR way. I plan on doing the same, but really can use all the help I can get. Thanks to everyone! Maybe you should all run for congress!

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Nov 2005


    Nothing has changed in the last 25+years in regards to filler over etch primer or using epoxy over sandblasted or freshly sanded metal for storage or longevity.Your sherwin rep gave you bad advice about etch primer or you have a rare product that is not available in north america.Instead of asking on some website why don't you do the best thing and contact the paint manufacturer of the products you are using and ask them,that would be the most fool proof advice you will get.You will get the best mileage and longest lasting job by following the manufacturers guidelines,pretty simple.We have to offer a warranty with every job, that's why we have to do things by the book or the shop would go broke with re-dos.
    Last edited by Jayson M; 04-05-2013 at 07:27 PM.

  3. #63


    go ahead an etch it b4 ya use ur mud but ya aint gonna like how it feathers an the lack of adhesion i think ur making a big mistake not listening 2 jay u will regret it trust me....just my honest opinion ive made that mistake b4 an still haven't forgot it that acid in the etch an the mud dont seem ta like each other very much an all the grinding in the world dont seem ta fix it but go right ahead be my geust

  4. #64

    Default Update

    I thought I would update here. I am about halfway thru the 356. Yes I move slow. Work, family, leaves one day a week at best. Anyhow, the areas that I have blasted and Epoxy primed are rock solid having just sat there in my shop. I will attempt to sand blast the innner rear fenders prior to applying more Epoxy primer. I will likely wipe them down with some sort of cleaner or rust converter or Picklex 20 just as added measure prior to primer. I decided not to go w SPI primer just bc of the known interactions between it and any acid based preps. This was from Barry's mouth so I trust that. I don't want to have to wash down my metal before applying primer so not going to use SPI. As a another point of reference I did spray a sand blasted Land Cruiser w Epoxy primer, brand name escapes me but I think it was SPI, over ten years ago. It has sat indoors in my shop and it is still perfect. Prior to applying the Epoxy, I hosed it down w Picklex and it is still rock solid. Thanks for all the good info in this thread. I hope it has help others.

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