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Thread: Wheel well repair

  1. #1

    Default Wheel well repair

    I am repairing a rusty spot on the wheel well of my car. I have a rust-free replacement part cut from a donor car. The inner metal was fine, just the outer layer was rusted. I drilled out the spot welds and cut out the bad section.

    After I weld in the new piece, I'm concerned about protecting it from rusting from the inside again. There is an access hole around the trunk that gives me limited access to the rear area of the repair. I was thinking of spraying some rustproofing spray that I use on my boat, Boeshield T-9. It is a waxy, non-drip spray.

    Any ideas?
    Thanks
    Mike M.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikemo View Post
    I am repairing a rusty spot on the wheel well of my car. I have a rust-free replacement part cut from a donor car. The inner metal was fine, just the outer layer was rusted. I drilled out the spot welds and cut out the bad section.

    After I weld in the new piece, I'm concerned about protecting it from rusting from the inside again. There is an access hole around the trunk that gives me limited access to the rear area of the repair. I was thinking of spraying some rustproofing spray that I use on my boat, Boeshield T-9. It is a waxy, non-drip spray.

    Any ideas?
    Thanks
    Mike M.
    When you have sheet metal that is rusted through it's usually because moisture gets trapped inside the vehicle and can't evaporate. When replacing this metal you should make the top seam above the trapped moisture area. Coating the inside of the repair is a good idea when the area is accessible.

  3. #3

    Default

    The rust-through is at the highest part of the wheel well lip. Not sure why it would rust first there. Maybe because the moisture would sit and not run down the sides?

    I'll cut the panel as high as I can.
    Thanks
    Mike M.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikemo View Post
    The rust-through is at the highest part of the wheel well lip. Not sure why it would rust first there. Maybe because the moisture would sit and not run down the sides?

    I'll cut the panel as high as I can.
    Thanks
    Mike M.
    Check out our backing strip method of patching a panel linked below. Maybe it can help you save time or do a better job.

  5. #5

    Default

    Len,
    Thanks for the advice. Let me include a couple of pictures to show what I'm working on.





    The second picture with the piece cut out looks rusty underneath, but that is just rust that stuck to this foam strip that was between the panels when it was manufactured. After cleaning off the foam strip, the metal underneath was clean. After this I actually cut a bit more on the left side as I thought I was still in a rusty area (notice the part that was removed).

    I don't have much clearance to punch holes in that top piece. I am a bit concerned with trying to get a clean butt weld without a backing strip. The other repairs I've done up till now have been in hidden areas so they didn't have to look perfect.

    How would you proceed?
    Thanks!
    Mike M.

  6. #6
    autobodytech43 Guest

    Default

    yeah, I'd stick to a backing strip if you're not used to open butt welds. They take a lot of practice to get good at it. The metal can be real finicky in areas with gaps. Get some weld thru primer and etch too.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikemo View Post
    Len,
    Thanks for the advice. Let me include a couple of pictures to show what I'm working on.





    The second picture with the piece cut out looks rusty underneath, but that is just rust that stuck to this foam strip that was between the panels when it was manufactured. After cleaning off the foam strip, the metal underneath was clean. After this I actually cut a bit more on the left side as I thought I was still in a rusty area (notice the part that was removed).

    I don't have much clearance to punch holes in that top piece. I am a bit concerned with trying to get a clean butt weld without a backing strip. The other repairs I've done up till now have been in hidden areas so they didn't have to look perfect.

    How would you proceed?
    Thanks!
    Mike M.
    Do you have a repair panel to use to replace the bad metal? That would be the first think I would look for.

  8. #8
    autobodytech43 Guest

    Default

    that's where a bench shrinker/stretcher would come in handy. That slight curve on the body line would be hard to replicate and fab up without it. If a replacement part is too much and you don't have the bench shrinker/stretcher than you can also do it in two patches to replicate that curve.


    If you look on the right side you'll still see rust. This is cause this curve can't be replicated in one piece so I HAD to do it in two pieces. This is just the first piece I welded in.


  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    Do you have a repair panel to use to replace the bad metal? That would be the first think I would look for.
    Yes, I have a rust-free part from a donor car.
    I'm just wondering what the best way to weld it in would be. There isn't much room for a backing strip. I might be able to squeeze one in, but won't be able to get my punch to get holes in the top piece.

    Ideas?
    Thanks
    Mike M.

  10. #10
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    when we do pdr sometimes we try our best not to but you have to drill a whole with exposed edges we apply zinc primer then put a plug and whos ever gonna see runs inside your trunk if you can never get your hand there in the first place..

    as far as the welding replace inner and outer skins similar to the backing strip method len showed make shure its all gone or coated/converted before you close it all up...

  11. #11
    autobodytech43 Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by style View Post
    when we do pdr sometimes we try our best not to but you have to drill a whole with exposed edges we apply zinc primer then put a plug and whos ever gonna see runs inside your trunk if you can never get your hand there in the first place..

    as far as the welding replace inner and outer skins similar to the backing strip method len showed make shure its all gone or coated/converted before you close it all up...


    what does pdr have to do with a rust patch?


    If he can't open butt weld he should use a backing strip, and if he can't plug weld it in tacking it in is fine.

  12. #12
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by autobodytech43 View Post
    what does pdr have to do with a rust patch?


    If he can't open butt weld he should use a backing strip, and if he can't plug weld it in tacking it in is fine.
    he asked what he should spray to prevent rust, this is what we use along with many other manufactures,when you drill a hole your exposing a fresh metal edge and begging for rust unless you coat it first..

    why dont you shut up and go attempt to please your woman or pay attention to your new baby or something..


    HE NEVER ONCE ASKED HOW TO WELD IT..JUST WANTED TO COAT IT..

  13. #13
    autobodytech43 Guest

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    I do rust patches all the time while you're buffing out headlights. So it's pretty funny you're sitting here trying to tell me how do things.

    THIS is how you protect the backsides you moron.


  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by autobodytech43 View Post
    I do rust patches all the time while you're buffing out headlights. So it's pretty funny you're sitting here trying to tell me how do things.

    THIS is how you protect the backsides you moron.

    THATS NICE NOW WHAT DID YOU COAT IT WITH?

    NICE BACKSIDE I GOT A BETTER ONE.




    P.S. WERENT YOU LEAVING

  15. #15
    autobodytech43 Guest

    Default


    hahhahaha. That was funny.

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