Another "Which gun should I get" Thread...

[JT1]

I read through many posts I here, and still have some questions...

After many years doing the metal work on my project, I am almost to the point of needing to prime it.

Most of the car is either Picklexed (the parts that wern't replaced), or in some cases e-coated repro or NOS parts.

I have a booth lined up at a friends shop to do the finish painting, but I will be priming and doing the filler work at home.

My compressor is most likely borderline, it is a 5 HP 230 V unit, but only single stage, 11.7 scfm at 90 psi, 10.2 scfm at 40 psi. It does have a 60 gallon tank.

I don't anticipate trying to prime the whole car at once. Most likely I will clean and prep a manageable area, do any filler, then wheel it outside (I'm in the middle of some acerage), prime, then move on to the next spot.

If my compressor is insufficient to run a primer gun properly, I'd rather upgrade it, than get an inferior gun.

I like the looks of Dekups system, and would be interested in anything that speeds up clean up time, and or limits clean up chemicals and their disposal.

I should probably start a "Which primer should I use thread", it will definitely be epoxy, but I'm not sure which brand. Right now I'm leaning towards SPI as I read good things about it on the web. Seems to be many guys in many forums that want to help with any SPI issues. It will either be that or PPG. My local paint supply store is staffed by someone who seems incapable of tech support, so that resource is out.

[another2centsworth]

Personally if you prefer PPG go Omni epoxy and urethane....Keep reading bud.

[Len]

I read through many posts I here, and still have some questions...

After many years doing the metal work on my project, I am almost to the point of needing to prime it.

Most of the car is either Picklexed (the parts that wern't replaced), or in some cases e-coated repro or NOS parts.

I have a booth lined up at a friends shop to do the finish painting, but I will be priming and doing the filler work at home.

My compressor is most likely borderline, it is a 5 HP 230 V unit, but only single stage, 11.7 scfm at 90 psi, 10.2 scfm at 40 psi. It does have a 60 gallon tank.

I don't anticipate trying to prime the whole car at once. Most likely I will clean and prep a manageable area, do any filler, then wheel it outside (I'm in the middle of some acerage), prime, then move on to the next spot.

If my compressor is insufficient to run a primer gun properly, I'd rather upgrade it, than get an inferior gun.

I like the looks of Dekups system, and would be interested in anything that speeds up clean up time, and or limits clean up chemicals and their disposal.

I should probably start a "Which primer should I use thread", it will definitely be epoxy, but I'm not sure which brand. Right now I'm leaning towards SPI as I read good things about it on the web. Seems to be many guys in many forums that want to help with any SPI issues. It will either be that or PPG. My local paint supply store is staffed by someone who seems incapable of tech support, so that resource is out.

Your compressor should work fine for most spraying. A gun that uses more CFM than your compressor will generate won't show the effect for quite a while when you have a 60 gallon tank so you should be able to make it around the car if necessary. Personally I like the Finishline 3 for primer and, you're right, the DeKup system helps with cleanup but also allows you to lay the gun down or spray upside down if you want without needing to worry about spillage or clogging the vent hole in the cap. I use the DeKups on most large spraying jobs but on small, one or two panel jobs I usually go with a reusable cup.

Be sure to scuff the Picklex well before applying epoxy primer that contains NO acid. I'm not familiar with SPI or PPG primers but it might pay to use products you can purchase locally.

Are you planning on using a different gun for spraying your top coat? If so you should take a look at other DeVilbiss guns like the GFG670 "Plus" gun or their newest model the Tekna. Both of these guns perform well and are an excellent value for the money. You can use the same DeKup adapter on the Finishline, Plus and Tekna guns along with the same DeKups.

DeVilbiss Link

[JT1]

I went to the store and see 3 versions of the finishline. 647WB, 654, 648.

The first two I think I see the difference, the plastic cup for water based compatibility, plus 3 tips (1.3,1.5, 1.8) versus 2 in the other kits

What is the difference between the second and third, the 654 (1.3 and 1.5) and 648 (1.8, 2.2), just the tip sizes?

If I have that right, looks like the first one is the best deal (as long as you don't need a 2.2 tip) as you have a choice of three tips and could do primer and top coat? So you get a $42.00 tip and a plastic cup for an extra $10.00 or $24.00. Is the gun appropriate for top coat?

I think I want to use my existing regulator back on the wall, but to do that I should have a gauge at the gun? I don't think I see that in the DeVilbiss Finishline 3 Parts and Options page?

Is the inlet at the gun just female NPT, so I can use a QD out of my stock of extras?

[Len]

I went to the store and see 3 versions of the finishline. 647WB, 654, 648.

The first two I think I see the difference, the plastic cup for water based compatibility, plus 3 tips (1.3,1.5, 1.8) versus 2 in the other kits

What is the difference between the second and third, the 654 (1.3 and 1.5) and 648 (1.8, 2.2), just the tip sizes?

If I have that right, looks like the first one is the best deal (as long as you don't need a 2.2 tip) as you have a choice of three tips and could do primer and top coat? So you get a $42.00 tip and a plastic cup for an extra $10.00 or $24.00. Is the gun appropriate for top coat?

I think I want to use my existing regulator back on the wall, but to do that I should have a gauge at the gun? I don't think I see that in the DeVilbiss Finishline 3 Parts and Options page?

Is the inlet at the gun just female NPT, so I can use a QD out of my stock of extras?

The gun with the three tips is the one I'd pick for spraying both primer and top coats. You should have an inlet regulator mounted on the gun to accurately regulate the air pressure at the gun. There are a couple of inlet regulators on the DeVilbiss Page located HERE.

A stem can be mounted on the gun or on the inlet pressure gauge and the coupling is mounted on the hose.

Stem is attached to gun or inlet regulator.

[JT1]

Len,

Thanks for answering. I am beginning to think I need to go to HF, buy a cheap gun, then put up a post that it sucks, to get some of the other guys involved in this thread, lol...

Anyway, is the devhav501 just a needle valve or is it an actual regulator with a spring?



After reading another thread about where the regulator should be, I see the pros and cons of each. I think either would be good as long as you had a good regulator at the gun, not just a restrictor.

Back to epoxy over Picklex 20. Do you wipe with anything between the "scuffing real good" and the spraying of the epoxy?

[Len]

Len,

Thanks for answering. I am beginning to think I need to go to HF, buy a cheap gun, then put up a post that it sucks, to get some of the other guys involved in this thread, lol...

Anyway, is the devhav501 just a needle valve or is it an actual regulator with a spring?



After reading another thread about where the regulator should be, I see the pros and cons of each. I think either would be good as long as you had a good regulator at the gun, not just a restrictor.

Back to epoxy over Picklex 20. Do you wipe with anything between the "scuffing real good" and the spraying of the epoxy?

You can use an inlet "regulator" if you like but I have every gauge and inlet regulator you can think of and as long as you can regulate the pressure in the hose (before the gun) to be about 80 PSI or less you won't be able to tell if you're using a pinch valve or a regulator. If your hose has high pressure from the compressor and it's 125 PSI or more then a regulator may be best.

If the surface has other contaminants on it after sanding the Picklex then it's best to use some grease and wax remover to clean it prior to priming. If the Picklex was recently applied I would probably just scuff it, blow it off and prime it.