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Thread: sanding and buffing time?

  1. #1
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    Default sanding and buffing time?

    Is there a time limit from painting time to sanding and buffing? It is bc/cc. TIA, Jake

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jake View Post
    Is there a time limit from painting time to sanding and buffing? It is bc/cc. TIA, Jake
    If you sand and polish before the paint has fully cured it can be a lot easier but the timing can depend on several factors.... In many cases the quality of the material will determine how hard the paint will get. Different temperatures will cause the paint to cure at different rates so 60 degrees will allow the paint to stay softer longer while a higher temp will cause it to get hard faster. Many paints will have different speed hardeners that can extend or shorten the hardening process.

    When we use Glasurit we usually try to do all of our sanding and polishing between 24 and 48 hours after the application of the paint when the temps are around 70 degrees F. After the paint is polished we usually wait a week or two then go back and give it the once over to help remove buffing swirls. However if you wait until the paint is fully cured the finish can still be sanded and polished, it will take longer but it's less likely you will damage the hard paint.

    So, after all that, it really doesn't matter how long you wait as long as the paint is semi-hard before you start.

  3. #3
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    Cool I always start...

    semi-hard???
    :0That may work you but I let it set up, cure,&

    dry before I open up the pores and put a buffer on it!

    Dan
    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    If you sand and polish before the paint has fully cured it can be a lot easier but the timing can depend on several factors.... In many cases the quality of the material will determine how hard the paint will get. Different temperatures will cause the paint to cure at different rates so 60 degrees will allow the paint to stay softer longer while a higher temp will cause it to get hard faster. Many paints will have different speed hardeners that can extend or shorten the hardening process.

    When we use Glasurit we usually try to do all of our sanding and polishing between 24 and 48 hours after the application of the paint when the temps are around 70 degrees F. After the paint is polished we usually wait a week or two then go back and give it the once over to help remove buffing swirls. However if you wait until the paint is fully cured the finish can still be sanded and polished, it will take longer but it's less likely you will damage the hard paint.

    So, after all that, it really doesn't matter how long you wait as long as the paint is semi-hard before you start.

  4. #4
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    ive had some issues where the cars look liken glass an 2 weeks later come back for rebuff and cut after a lil shrinking now instead of cutting it twice 2xthe work,material an leaving less clear i wait 2 weeks then buff an have no issues...

  5. #5
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    Cool Good point...

    style,now I am almost ready just got to learn the lingo, the salesmans art of commnunication, closing and sealing the deal!

    Oh sh*t does this mean I have to speak spainglish or spanish,f*ck and write it too,fu*k go back to school and take business courses,spanish,wtf 10 years down the road I will have to speak japanese too huh?
    Dan
    Quote Originally Posted by style View Post
    ive had some issues where the cars look liken glass an 2 weeks later come back for rebuff and cut after a lil shrinking now instead of cutting it twice 2xthe work,material an leaving less clear i wait 2 weeks then buff an have no issues...

  6. #6
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    Default Thanks for the replies.......

    I have the car on a rotisserie so it is in a million pieces. I will have to leave the fenders, doors etc in the garage when I paint the body. I will cover them of course but I don't want to have to buff them again if I get any overspray on them.
    On a side not Len, I still have not used the turbine system I bought from you about three years ago. Life keeps getting in the way of my projects. Lol

  7. #7
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    Default Theres always...

    other methods to remove overspray, one method is with the use of a clay bar
    Quote Originally Posted by Jake View Post
    I have the car on a rotisserie so it is in a million pieces. I will have to leave the fenders, doors etc in the garage when I paint the body. I will cover them of course but I don't want to have to buff them again if I get any overspray on them.
    On a side not Len, I still have not used the turbine system I bought from you about three years ago. Life keeps getting in the way of my projects. Lol

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jake View Post
    I have the car on a rotisserie so it is in a million pieces. I will have to leave the fenders, doors etc in the garage when I paint the body. I will cover them of course but I don't want to have to buff them again if I get any overspray on them.
    On a side not Len, I still have not used the turbine system I bought from you about three years ago. Life keeps getting in the way of my projects. Lol
    ever heard of liquid masking..i used to paint in my house garage all the time no ventalation all sealed of course one fender or bumper only but even covered cars would still have overspray so i bought some liquid masking put tape then paper then one sheet over area to be painted sprayed whole car with it waited 15 mins took off paper to reveal area to paint cleaned it real good non amonia glass cleaner painted next day removed paper buffed wased car soap an water an 0 overspray...


    just a thought..


  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by style View Post
    ive had some issues where the cars look liken glass an 2 weeks later come back for rebuff and cut after a lil shrinking now instead of cutting it twice 2xthe work,material an leaving less clear i wait 2 weeks then buff an have no issues...
    If you use a decent high solids clear you can cut and polish while the paint is not fully cured and it will polish a lot easier. Come back a week later and polish it lightly again to remove the swirls and get a super hard shine. Waiting until a "good" quality paint is fully cured can make the polishing a much longer effort. However if the paint is applied very smooth and the sanding is finished with 3000 or 4000 grit then polishing after full cure isn't too bad.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    If you use a decent high solids clear you can cut and polish while the paint is not fully cured and it will polish a lot easier. Come back a week later and polish it lightly again to remove the swirls and get a super hard shine. Waiting until a "good" quality paint is fully cured can make the polishing a much longer effort. However if the paint is applied very smooth and the sanding is finished with 3000 or 4000 grit then polishing after full cure isn't too bad.
    when people are payin 800 for completes its hard to use GOOD products most of the time i end up using crossfire base and finish one clear though latley for spots the ipc is doing pretty good..

    in the past couple weeks ive beenusing crossfires cc5020 clear and its giving me a really deep wet shine for 60 bucks more then the 100 finish one kit...

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