problems with ?solvent popping? or what?

[s class]

Thanks Len. That looks like a nice gun. At this stage, cost effectiveness is a distant second place to my frustration and desire to get the job right. So I'm prepared to pay what's needed for the right equipment.

I appreciate the advice as the DeVilbiss range has many different models, and I wasn't sure which was best suited.

[s class]

I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to thank you guys for all your help, and close off on the problem

I did eventually buy a Devilbiss GTi-Pro-Digital for clearing. The choice between Sata and Devilbiss was largely based on local availability and pricing.

I was real excited for the new gun until it gave me even worse problems of the same nature. I eventually spent some time with the Standox technical rep, and he worked through my problems with me and yes, it was solvent pop from laying the clear down too thick. I had to relearn my 2k/clear application techniques to be appropriate for HVLP and modern paints/solvents.

I do still battle a bit with clears, and sometimes get solvent pop, but no where near as bad as before, and I can always correlate the occurences of these problems to occasions of giving into temptation and going heavy on the paint.

Thanks guys!

[Len]

I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to thank you guys for all your help, and close off on the problem

I did eventually buy a Devilbiss GTi-Pro-Digital for clearing. The choice between Sata and Devilbiss was largely based on local availability and pricing.

I was real excited for the new gun until it gave me even worse problems of the same nature. I eventually spent some time with the Standox technical rep, and he worked through my problems with me and yes, it was solvent pop from laying the clear down too thick. I had to relearn my 2k/clear application techniques to be appropriate for HVLP and modern paints/solvents.

I do still battle a bit with clears, and sometimes get solvent pop, but no where near as bad as before, and I can always correlate the occurences of these problems to occasions of giving into temptation and going heavy on the paint.

Thanks guys!

I'm not familiar with that gun because it's not sold in the US but if a "compliant" air cap is available for it I think you'll find it lays the clear on in much thinner coats and much smoother. This eliminates the tendency to pop and the finish has much less orange peel.

[s class]

Thanks Len. Its an approx $500 gun, and nice to handle. It has an integrated pressure regulator with digital readout. The documentation with the gun calls for a supply of 3 bar coming into this regulator, which is then adjusted to read 2 bar while the trigger is depressed. I will have a look at what accessories are available for it.

[s class]

its like this one :

[Dennis N. Schmidt]

That doesn't look like any DeVilbiss product available in America. Can you give us an international DeVilbiss Website (probably based in the UK or SA) that provides the technical details on this gun. The aircap looks like a Tekna (with the ridges). What we're trying to determine is whether this gun is an HVLP gun or what we in America call a compliant gun (high pressure, but still capable of 60% transfer efficiency thereby meeting environmental standards). Compliant guns do much better with high solid clears which is why we're asking.

[s class]

I have found a link on the UK site, but I will wait until I get home in 2 hrs time to make sure I have the correct model number, and to see what air cap I have, before I post up the link.

Thanks.

[Jayson M]

You can check out all of the GTI pro guns/specs at this site as well as the new european prolite and cool digital gauge.The GTI pros are comparable to the teknas,not sure why they have different models over there and here.I would like to try one myself.
http://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/

[style]

Sata makes excellent spray guns but they are somewhat over priced for the average DIYer. The DeVilbiss Plus (GFG-670) is an excellent choice for the average painter because it costs 50 to 70 percent less than the Sata guns and comes with three different size fluid tips and an inlet pressure gauge so that you can spray a variety of materials and it atomizes very well.

LINK

7years later i still have a plus gun up untill last year i thought it was the cream of the crop till i got a tekna..

the plus atomizes so fine you have what looks like more overspray then most other guns the tekna can be turned down air wise very low so on small things its almost no overspray and on large things it still looks like less then a plus gun...

just my thoughts..for the price nothing beats a plus gun..

[s class]

OK, its this gun :


http://www.devilbisseu.com/en-gb/pro...and-clear-guns

I have the GTi-PRO-T1 air cap, labelled "transtech".

I see that the fluid tip is a PRO-200-14 (ie 1.4mm). I was a little surprised - thought I had a 1.3mm.

According to this info here :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390284382559...84.m1438.l2649

The T1 air cap is really intended for solvent based base-coat. It seems I should be using a T2 or H1 for clear.

Any thoughts?