base coat activator
What is the advantage of activating base coat prior to clearcoating? Is it recommended, and is clearcoat activator used or another product used ? thank you.
what are you spraying?
activated base makes repairs and sand throughs easier to rebase/repair without lifting problems.
Iam spraying mettalic base coat over spi epoxy primer on a fiberglass boat
what base /clear system are you using?
I am using metallic base from kustom shop and spi 5100 clear coat.
the activators at my guess will be different in reference to clear and base.
If you need to make a repair AFTER you applied your base and clear you will need to SEAL the repair before applying more base IF you didn't use a hardener. However, if you used a hardener in the base, you can usually just apply your color over the repair without having to worry about the old base lifting.
Originally Posted by r hamilton
Each brand of basecoat uses its specfic brand of basecoat hardener/activator. NO - clearcoat activator won't work correctly being used as a basecoat activator. Some brands of basecoat do not have an activator/hardener.
Base coat hardener
While some systems use a basecoat-specific hardener (or sometimes called activator, depending upon the manufacturer), in Akzo Nobel's Sikkens and Lesonal lines, it is optional to add hardener to the basecoat. The Sikkens and Lesonal basecoats DO use (Sikkens or Lesonal) clearcoat hardener as an option.
In car/truck applications, there are several advantages to using a hardener in the basecoat.
The first, the ability to easily repair any goof-ups during the painting process, was already mentioned.
Adding a hardener, which cross-links the basecoat, also makes for a tougher, more resilient paint film that is less likely to rock-chip.
Looking at the technical data sheet for the Urethane Metallic Basecoat series
( http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/...hsheet_umb.pdf ),
I don't see any mention of using a hardener with it. I would not recommend trying one from a different manufacturer. If it doesn't actually cross-link with the basecoat, it's given you no benefit, and if it's too reactive, it could wrinkle on you.
Of course, you could always try a test panel and compare it to a non-activated (non-hardened) basecoat.
But, for the best quality repair, you're probably better off just sticking to the tech sheet and making sure you stay within the manufacturer's recoat window.
Like I always say FOLLOW THE TECH SHEETS!