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Thread: Wet Sanding / Color Sanding

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    Windermere, Florida
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    Default Wet Sanding / Color Sanding

    Any experience with 3m trizact vs Mirka abralon products.

    My experience, 3m is a great cutter on the 1500 product I does bring about the beginnings of a beautiful shine, 3000 does bring the mirror almost, yet 3m goes no higher.

    Mirka, a friend of mine gave meet "a" sheet of the 2000 abralon product and said he uses the same pad on at least 5 cars when it comes to wet sanding, (he is a detailer) so I have tried it on my latest project, and the 2000 does not seem to cut and level the clear-coat, I also picked up a 3000 and a 4000 disk just to see, as I am working my way up through a complete wet sand of clear on the entire vehicle, starting with 400, 600, 800. 1000, 1500, and 2000 all wet and with blocks. Now I am using the Mirka products and not quite comfortable. any help.

    I know a lot of this is personal preference, but before I go and purchase any more material I would like to hear from some experience.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    27,815

    Default

    We stock several different Trizact grits and only one Mirka (the 4000) and we use both the Trizact 3000 and the Mirka 4000 but mostly the Trizact. While the Mirka 4000 is an excellent material we don't really need to go that fine so we usually hit it with the Trizact 3000 then polish the surface.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    1,092

    Default

    You can't flatten anything with Abralon. For that matter you can't flatten anything with P3000 Trizact either. All the flattening has to be done with paper and a hard pad. Normally starting at P800 and finishing with P1500 260L dry or using P1500 Trizact wet prior to entering what I consider to be the "pre-polishing" phase. Once flat P3000 Trizact or P2000 Abralon does a good job of getting out the pigtail scratches left by the finishing film and the hard pads. Both Trizact and Abralon last a long time as they are used wet which prevents them from loading. I've used both and prefer Trizact as it's thinner. P4000 Abralon is useless, P2000 Abralon is nice for starting after the P1500. If you're compound can't cut it after P2000 Abralon or P3000 Trizact it sucks so change brands. P2000 Abralon cuts about the same as P3000 Trizact due to the thicker foam of the Abralon versus the thinner foam of the P3000 Trizact.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    Windermere, Florida
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    Default

    Finally you put it into words, that I can identify with.
    I did start with block and 400 moving up to 2000 (600, 800, 1000, then 1500) on the clear.
    I am in that pre-polishing stage, I wanted to hear what the experience others had as far as Abralon was concerned,
    No it does not level or barely cut but it does polish well, that is why the 3/4000 has been OK. The 1500 trizact does do a lot of cutting, but I've learned only after the clear has been blocked and sanded by hand. I was getting pigtails with the 1500 and every so often with the 3000 (3m) that's when the abralon seemed to do it's job.
    Thanks for the confirmation, now back to the buffing.http://autobodystore.com/forum/images/icons/icon11.gif

  5. #5
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    Nov 2005
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    Default

    Don't start with 400 it's too coarse, start with 800 or 1000. If you start with 400 it will cut deeply into your top coat then you'll need to remove those deep scratches with more coarse grits that will also remove too much paint.

  6. #6
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    Jul 2010
    Location
    Windermere, Florida
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    Default

    To late: There were 5 coats of clear on the car (Sprayed clear on 2 different occasions).

    Went with the 400 for several passes, then moved onto the 600, 800 and then 1000.

    Scratches from the sanding where still evident, but no breakthroughs.

    Went on to 1500 and wrapped up with 2000 all by block and hand.

    Went to machine sanding with DA and 3000 Tizact, finished up entire car with a run with a 4000 Abralon, polishing the paint.

    Needless to say I am happy with what I have, a mirror.

    Still have a few areas that are not up to snuff, as found when I run with the 1st go of polishing compound.

    Will continue on with the 3 & 4000, and blend the worked areas. The finish I have is a lot of time, patience and tolerance and not for the weak of heart.

    Thanks in advance for all of the input.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    Default perfect it

    I cut with 3M perfect-it compound after trizac.
    Then polish with 3M perfect-it polish with appropriate pads.
    You might ought to try some of Robert's polish
    http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...tegory_Code=M3
    [SIGPIC]

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Johnstown,PA
    Posts
    136

    Default

    Dennis put it about as well as i've ever seen it put

    Everything above 1500 is scratch refinement to make buffing easier.

    [snip] I was getting pigtails with the 1500 and every so often with the 3000 (3m) that's when the abralon seemed to do it's job.
    1500 Finish film(260L) will pigtail with some clears, especially as it wears a little, best thing i've found is to swipe the sander across your pantleg or a towel regularly to keep excess dust off the pad and also swipe the work surface before it pills, once it starts to pill it won't stop so you may as well get a fresh sheet.

    If you're getting pigtails from Trizact 3000 something is seriously amiss, you need to keep a spray bottle handy and keep it wet , not wetsanding wet but don't let it form a thick slurry or run dry either.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    S. CA
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    Default 3M makes a 1500 trizact


    that's used with just a little bit of water so it makes for a very easy cleanup and no dust. It's become one of my favorite things - however - I've found that it works better if I scrape it off first - lightly with the back of a knife or something just to knock off the abrasives that stick up. Those seem to slice into the paint leaving a cut that opens up after a few days as the paint finishes curing. So, that wet with the pins scraped off, followed by 3000 slightly wet then buff would be good for just about any project here because it would slightly flatten the paint, take the dust nibs and dirt right out and polishes easily.

    Robert

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