Wax & Grease Remover before Picklex20
I am new to the forum and have this new post -- although it is related to several of your very informative threads on Picklex20 and Zero Rust products/application. I'ver ordered the Picklex20.
I did not see the answer to this question for surface/metal prep for Picklex20 application:
This is on a 69 camaro coupe, and a frame-on underbody cleaning/detailing.
What is the recommended product(s) by brand and name, to effectively remove wax, grease, etc from a mostly bare metal underbody (undercarriage subframe, floors, inner wheel wells, driveline, rear axle, steering/suspension components, brake drums, inner surface of body panels (e.g., fenders, rear quarters, rockers). After the Picklex20, I plan to topcoat with 2-3 medium coats of Zero Rust.
Also, is Picklex20 safe to use on all underbody OEM metal lines and cabling (e.g., brake, fuel) including exhaust manifolds? Is it ok to get Picklex20 on rubber (e.g., subframe and steering/suspension bushings)?
Originally Posted by rock-4
As far as removing dirt and grease from under the car I usually start by scrubbing the greasy areas with a good grease cutter like Super Clean or Purple Power (same stuff) then rince it well and allow it to dry. Next use a solvent based grease and wax remover from a paint manufacturer, spray it on using a pump sprayer and wipe it off using clean paper towels. It usually pays to solvent clean the surface more than once.
Picklex is used mostly as a metal conditioner/rust converter but can also be used as a welding aid. Our shop uses it as a welding aide almost every time we weld. I try not go get the Picklex on any material where it can cause discoloration. Picklex can cause discoloration of aluminum and vinyl and I would imagine rubber but I have no experience with rubber, a text might be in order. When I'm doing a large area I spray it on and work it in with a scuff pad, wipe it off and allow it to dry but for tight spots where I want to keep the Picklex off of surrounding materials I usually brush it on and work it in with a scuff pad, wipe it off and allow it to dry.
After the Piclex is dry I usually scuff it with sandpaper or a scuff pad prior to priming or coating with Zero Rust.
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Originally Posted by rock-4
Following along here will put you and your project in first place as so many have found out. From the HOME page you can see 'Projects By our Friends' and the all important CLASSROOM section to find tons of information that would take you 50 years to find out on your own.
Have to ask you, how come the undercarriage of your car is mostly bare metal? Also, is there any rust or rot on this car?
When I do something like you plan on, I like to wash the entire vehicle down with something like DAWN for dishes to be sure all the wax or grease from years ago are gone. I actually favor using Wesley's Bleche White on a dry surface to break down all contaminants.
For the undercarriage I like to power wash the entire area along with engine compartment. But since you have as you say "mostly bare metal" I might skip the power wash step. Keep us posted and welcome again. Henry
Appreciate the advice...
Len and Henry,
Thanks for the quick response! The undercarriage of this car looks to be mostly original. I know the radiator core support at the subframe bushing mounts, RH inner fender by battery tray, and battery tray itself have significant rust through/weak areas. I will be replacing all of these with new metal in the near future (which I will also Picklex20 and Zero Rust).
To answer your question Henry ..."why underbody is mostly bare metal..." My initial description may not have been completely accurate. Here is what I have done, and what I have discovered: By hand, cleaned the entire engine/compartment with Simple Green cleaner. It was all in good shape other than what I noted above. I then used Simple Green, SOS pads, brushes/plastic scraper and a lot of rags to clean the entire undercarriage. This included all floors, subframe and cross-members, steering and suspension parts, transmission, driveline, rear axle, leaf springs, lines, cabling, and linkages, inner fender/quarter panels, wheel wells, brake drums, etc. All of this was done "frame-on" and no blasting.
What I removed using this process: Using Simple Green and SOS pads, scrapers, all of the undercoating or paint that would scrub/come off from the floors and trunk (left a smooth surface). Same with what coating was on the subframe, transmission mount cross member, suspension/steering components, driveline, and rear axle. There are a few spots where I could not remove what looks like paint residue on the subframe and rear axle. I unveiled some areas of surface rust throughout, couple of small front floor areas of rust through and weak spots near the foot board, and only a few pinholes. Rockers look solid, as do the shock towers/mounts and inside of fenders and quarters.
The areas of front floor rust through and pinholes: My plan at this time is to not replace with patch/new floor metal, but to neutralize, prime, apply filler, and re-prime to inhibit/stabilize the rust. The remaining areas I will clean with a wax/grease remover; apply Picklex20; followed by Zero Rust as the topcoat. My goal is to have made the entire underbody clean and dry; stop any further rust; and apply epoxy primer (2-3 medium coats). Appears the Zero Rust will provide that nice color and underbody protective finish combination.
Any other advice/input you gentlemen may have would be appreciated.