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Thread: When to use Adhesion Promoter

  1. #1
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    Default When to use Adhesion Promoter

    I have been going over a bunch of stuff, and I know that you want to use a flex agent on the stuff that will flex like a urethane bumper.

    I saw some stuff called "Adhesion Promoter" Is it a good idea to use this stuff or what?


    I am not sure when you should/shouldn't use it.

    anyone ever use/hear of it?


    Thanks!

  2. #2
    88GT Guest

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    I use it on bare plastic parts. Nothing else. No steel, aluminum or anything else I can scuff

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by 88GT View Post
    I use it on bare plastic parts. Nothing else. No steel, aluminum or anything else I can scuff
    Oh ok, that makes sense. Anything without a sandable surface. Gotcha!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by silentdub View Post
    I have been going over a bunch of stuff, and I know that you want to use a flex agent on the stuff that will flex like a urethane bumper.

    I saw some stuff called "Adhesion Promoter" Is it a good idea to use this stuff or what?


    I am not sure when you should/shouldn't use it.

    anyone ever use/hear of it?


    Thanks!
    Silentdub,
    Here's an article on using adhesion promoter with plastic parts. It's primarily an airbrush type site, but it might be helpful to you?

    http://www.airbrushtech.net./AIRBRUSH/plasticprep.html
    LS6

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by silentdub View Post
    I have been going over a bunch of stuff, and I know that you want to use a flex agent on the stuff that will flex like a urethane bumper.

    I saw some stuff called "Adhesion Promoter" Is it a good idea to use this stuff or what?


    I am not sure when you should/shouldn't use it.

    anyone ever use/hear of it?



    Thanks!

    I use it on bare plastic and on painted surfaces that cannot be scuffed properly. Have you ever seen the door jambs of a car that's been painted and the hinge area is peeling? This is a very difficult area to sand properly but if it's cleaned properly and hit with a "good" adhesion promoter you wouldn't have this peeling problem down the road.

  6. #6
    88GT Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    I use it on bare plastic and on painted surfaces that cannot be scuffed properly. Have you ever seen the door jambs of a car that's been painted and the hinge area is peeling? This is a very difficult area to sand properly but if it's cleaned properly and hit with a "good" adhesion promoter you wouldn't have this peeling problem down the road.
    I was whitness to a guy that, instead of scuffing the e-coat under a new hood, sprayed promoter. I thought that was gay.
    The problem you mention about the hinges sounds like someone trying to prep/paint that area with the doors still on. I dont have that problem, even if I leave the hinges on, but it does eat up the sand paper

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 88GT View Post
    I was whitness to a guy that, instead of scuffing the e-coat under a new hood, sprayed promoter. I thought that was gay.
    The problem you mention about the hinges sounds like someone trying to prep/paint that area with the doors still on. I dont have that problem, even if I leave the hinges on, but it does eat up the sand paper
    Yes, it is a problem that comes about while prepping the hinge are while the doors are left on. However it's not caused by lack of attention, it's caused by the difficulty in reaching all of the areas that need to be scuffed. It's almost impossible to reach the back of some hinges and effectively scuff around the bolts etc. Adhesion promoter makes the work a lot easier, faster and raises the quality of the work.

  8. #8
    88GT Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    Yes, it is a problem that comes about while prepping the hinge are while the doors are left on. However it's not caused by lack of attention, it's caused by the difficulty in reaching all of the areas that need to be scuffed. It's almost impossible to reach the back of some hinges and effectively scuff around the bolts etc. Adhesion promoter makes the work a lot easier, faster and raises the quality of the work.
    Thats why every restoration/color change/need to paint the hinge area, I remove the doors. Who in their right mind would try to get smooth paint in there other wise?
    Not to mention, if you have trouble getting paint in there, how do you get promoter in there?
    If your after some spesific look, like a half ass factory type appearance that was done from the factory with the doors on, maybe. I dont go for that look unless Im told to by the customer

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 88GT View Post
    Thats why every restoration/color change/need to paint the hinge area, I remove the doors. Who in their right mind would try to get smooth paint in there other wise?
    Not to mention, if you have trouble getting paint in there, how do you get promoter in there?
    If your after some spesific look, like a half ass factory type appearance that was done from the factory with the doors on, maybe. I dont go for that look unless Im told to by the customer
    I didn't say I had a problem getting paint in there, I said I have a problem sanding in there. It's a lot easier to spray AP in the crack and crevasses and the paint will stay looking good instead of peeling off later. Just in case you haven't noticed, all jobs are NOT the same and some don't get the doors removed during a color change while others do. I give my customers my recommendations and all the options and allow them to choose. Not all door jambs need a show quality finish and a factory look works for many people.

  10. #10
    88GT Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    I didn't say I had a problem getting paint in there
    You dont have to say it. You cant get paint in there and make it look good if you leave the doors on
    OK, for a low buget job I can understand doing that. (Leaving the doors on, not using promoter) I dont see promoter as a sanding substitute

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 88GT View Post
    You dont have to say it. You cant get paint in there and make it look good if you leave the doors on
    OK, for a low buget job I can understand doing that. (Leaving the doors on, not using promoter) I dont see promoter as a sanding substitute
    Hey 88 we've been painting for 45 years and we can apply AP then turn down the gun's pressure, narrow the pattern, restrict the paint volume and lay paint in and around the hinges to make it look like factory. Maybe you can't do it but we mastered it years ago. Adhesion promoter IS as substitute for sanding IF the surface is clean because a "good" AP is like glue that makes the new paint stick to old unsanded paint. See, you don't know everything.

  12. #12
    88GT Guest

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    I never said I know everything. And I certainly dont know how to make paint turn around in flight and come back the other way to stick to the back sides of parts
    You can paint with doors on. I dont. If someone told me to paint their car that way, I would tell them they just simply cant afford me. I take people like that as a message to turn the work away. I think that saves me alot of heartache.
    I looked at a Dodge Charger a few years ago. It was "restored" by another shop. They did the door jams that way. They ****ed up alot more than just that though. Compound splatter in there stuck to the dry spray in that area and all over the dash, sand scratches not all removed, and tons of other "short cuts". If the guy could have sued, I would have been redoing the work. He made the mistake of having it done out of state. Well, HE was out of state. Worst part of it all was, they charged him top dollar

  13. #13
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    FYI you can paint everything you can see and if you can't see it then coverage isn't that important.

  14. #14
    88GT Guest

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    Not always true. It depends on the surounding structure and how it might affect aero dynamics of the paint. If you can get paint in there it will be very dry in some places and running in other places. Unless your Len. LOL
    I'll start sending you people that want quick work LOL Im kidding.
    I'll take pics of the chevelle Im finishing up and show yall what a good job looks like
    I painted the hinges off the car since I blasted them, and painted the jams with the hinges off. BECAUSE, if I didnt do that, the job would have looked like ass. The hinges are mount area were beyond a simple scuff.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 88GT View Post
    Not always true. It depends on the surounding structure and how it might affect aero dynamics of the paint. If you can get paint in there it will be very dry in some places and running in other places. Unless your Len. LOL
    I'll start sending you people that want quick work LOL Im kidding.
    I'll take pics of the chevelle Im finishing up and show yall what a good job looks like
    I painted the hinges off the car since I blasted them, and painted the jams with the hinges off. BECAUSE, if I didnt do that, the job would have looked like ass. The hinges are mount area were beyond a simple scuff.
    Just because you can't do a good looking job with the doors on the car doesn't mean it can't be done. When a car comes in that needs the jambs painted and the customer has a budget then we explain the difference in time and money for different approaches to the work. The person who pays the bills can make a choice how they want the job done. Not every customer wants their job maxed out. We do the work the way the customer wants it done to their satisfaction not to ours and they are charged accordingly. We do high-end show cars and low-end drivers and our customers know what they will get before we start on their vehicles.

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