Spray Gun Cleaning Video

[Bob K]

I do a complete clean after every session. The only exception is when I mix up another batch and immediately continue painting with more of the same product. The problem with not cleaning the gun is that some of the products we use are chemically cured and they don’t need air to set up. Clear coat and surfacer and some epoxy can become solid in a very short time. Small passages in the air cap can become plugged by paint that seeps into them. Be safe and your gun will always work like when it was new.

Bob K

[Len]

One question, do you clean your gun this way after every paint job? What if I'm switching from eprimer to primer, from one day to the next, would you completely clean the gun or just run some thinner through it?

Just like Bob I clean my gun usually within a half hour of using it. Primer is the worst thing to leave in the gun because it usually won't rinse out and needs to be cleaned properly or the clinging primer hardens and becomes part of the gun.

[Henry]

Just like Bob I clean my gun usually within a half hour of using it. Primer is the worst thing to leave in the gun because it usually won't rinse out and needs to be cleaned properly or the clinging primer hardens and becomes part of the gun.

clinging primer hardens and becomes part of the gun. And that's why buying a used gun on ebay or someone you don't know is a real crap shoot with the odds AGAINST you. They may say it sprays but the question is how WELL does it spray?
With the COST of the paint you want to spray, it just ain't worth the risk of an unknown gun. Henry

[merbesfield]

I am having a problem w Epoxy primer hardening sometimes before I even finish with the first batch, let alone being able to spray a second cup. Am I using too much activator? I am measuring per recommended amts, but am having big problem dry spraying before the end and not being able to flow the paint or keep it wet. I am using a cheap Devilbiss Finish Line 3 gun set, but I don't think that is the issue. Thanks for the help.

[Len]

I am having a problem w Epoxy primer hardening sometimes before I even finish with the first batch, let alone being able to spray a second cup. Am I using too much activator? I am measuring per recommended amts, but am having big problem dry spraying before the end and not being able to flow the paint or keep it wet. I am using a cheap Devilbiss Finish Line 3 gun set, but I don't think that is the issue. Thanks for the help.

Is it epoxy or 2K primer? Usually epoxy doesn't kick off that fast but if it's not mixed properly I guess it could. Are you following the primer manufacturer's instructions as far as mixing ratio? Are you measuring with a stick or mixing cup?

USCMixingCups.jpg

[merbesfield]

Is it epoxy or 2K primer? Usually epoxy doesn't kick off that fast but if it's not mixed properly I guess it could. Are you following the primer manufacturer's instructions as far as mixing ratio? Are you measuring with a stick or mixing cup?

USCMixingCups.jpg

My bad, you are right I meant 2K. And its not a primer, it is Chassis Black finish coat for suspension parts etc. I use measuring cups, which brings up another point. It seems wasteful bc I have to use a new cup every time I mix. If I were to try and clean them I would waste lacquer thinner so what's the point. So what's the trick to using 2K?

[Len]

My bad, you are right I meant 2K. And its not a primer, it is Chassis Black finish coat for suspension parts etc. I use measuring cups, which brings up another point. It seems wasteful bc I have to use a new cup every time I mix. If I were to try and clean them I would waste lacquer thinner so what's the point. So what's the trick to using 2K?

The point is to get the correct mix every time so that you don't have ratio problems. If you don't want to use cups then use a measuring stick and a container that is the same diameter at the bottom as it is on the top so that your measurements are accurate.

Another variable is the speed of the activator/hardener, if it's hot weather and you're using fast hardener you may not have enough application time before the paint/primer starts to thicken.

Mixing Stick LINK

[merbesfield]

The point is to get the correct mix every time so that you don't have ratio problems. If you don't want to use cups then use a measuring stick and a container that is the same diameter at the bottom as it is on the top so that your measurements are accurate.

Another variable is the speed of the activator/hardener, if it's hot weather and you're using fast hardener you may not have enough application time before the paint/primer starts to thicken.

Mixing Stick LINK

Well the activator is what is sold with the kit so I have no idea. Eastwood Chassis Black, 2 K. I would love to know an alternative bc I think it is ok stuff, but expensive. The cups I use are some I bought by the 100 so I guess they are not too expensive, just seems a waste. Looking at the Dkups system, which I think can be poured right into? I do mix consistently, but I will play w just a little less activator to see if it helps. Thanks

[Len]

Well the activator is what is sold with the kit so I have no idea. Eastwood Chassis Black, 2 K. I would love to know an alternative bc I think it is ok stuff, but expensive. The cups I use are some I bought by the 100 so I guess they are not too expensive, just seems a waste. Looking at the Dkups system, which I think can be poured right into? I do mix consistently, but I will play w just a little less activator to see if it helps. Thanks

If you use less activator the paint may not fully harden but it may be ok. Next time try to purchase your paint products locally so that you have more control over what you get. Most auto body suppliers will have sales people at the counter that can give you basic information on their products.

[merbesfield]

If you use less activator the paint may not fully harden but it may be ok. Next time try to purchase your paint products locally so that you have more control over what you get. Most auto body suppliers will have sales people at the counter that can give you basic information on their products.

I agree, but no one seems to know what Chassis Black is correct? Can anyone on here comment on a brand that is strong and matches a nice satin black for engine trim and frames? Thanks

[Len]

I agree, but no one seems to know what Chassis Black is correct? Can anyone on here comment on a brand that is strong and matches a nice satin black for engine trim and frames? Thanks

We've been using Zero Rust, its semi-gloss looks great, holds up well and is easy to repair should it get damaged plus it's not real expensive.

ZR Link

[merbesfield]

We've been using Zero Rust, its semi-gloss looks great, holds up well and is easy to repair should it get damaged plus it's not real expensive.

ZR Link

I have used Zero rust for a long time, but did not know it was ok for top coats. Is it? Can it be sprayed? If so do you have to thin it? If so what do you thin it with?

[Len]

I have used Zero rust for a long time, but did not know it was ok for top coats. Is it? Can it be sprayed? If so do you have to thin it? If so what do you thin it with?

It holds up great on surfaces that don't get direct sunlight like the underside of the vehicle, interior surfaces, under the hood etc. Thin it about 10% for spraying.

[merbesfield]

It holds up great on surfaces that don't get direct sunlight like the underside of the vehicle, interior surfaces, under the hood etc. Thin it about 10% for spraying.

Newb here, but what do I thin it with?

[Art]

Newb here, but what do I thin it with?

Acetone works good if you want to be compliant with most laws. Otherwise lacquer thinner will work also.