Len, we don't hear much about this stuff anymore.
Robert, wanna chime in on this stuff?
Thanks. Henry
Len, we don't hear much about this stuff anymore.
Robert, wanna chime in on this stuff?
Thanks. Henry
whats to be said about it? Its rediculously expensive.
WOW, now there's a name from the dim dark distant past......
He's still around.
http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc
LS6
Is the stuff any good?
I agree. When I bought my new Corvette, I bought into the whole "Zaino" B.S. I spent well over $100 and a whole day doing all their steps I ended up with the same as if I did a 2 step system with Meguiars (clay bar and NXT). The nice thing is I sold all the Zaino stuff on E-Bay and got some of my money back.
I've found that Zaino seems to have much better durability than waxes. Does it shine any better? It's a subjective thing. My opinion would be that a good quality carnuba wax probably will slightly outshine the Zaino, but won't protect and last nearly as long as the Zaino.
Zaino will have a slight tendency to smear on black or red cars, unless you use the catalyst that he sells. The extra catalyst is what drives the price up. Personally, what I do is use Menzerna FMJ polymer first and then I use Zaino Z6 detailer next. Menzerna also makes a detailer, but I find it streaks significantly.
Both the Menzerna and the Zaino are polymer products.
My car is black and will show streaks easily. So, I take the best of both products by using the FMJ first and then using the Zaino Z6 over top of the FMJ. It works for me.
As for the true definition of shine, I think we all here on the ABS realize that the most important step to achieving that showcar shine is in the compound and polishing stage that is done way before the waxing or polymer stage of final shine and protection. If you haven't removed the blemishes by then, you'll never have a showcar shine.
The Zaino product that is supposed to remove and / or hide scratches is pure bullshit. It is not an abrasive. If you want to get rid of any scratch, no matter how trivial, you must use some form of abrasive. That's just the way it is. Abrasives come in different grades of grit and we all have our favorite combinations.
By the way, I have not tried the newest product made by Zaino, so I can't comment on that one. However, I'm pretty sure it'll be a good product.
Just my 2 cents.
LS6![]()
Last edited by LS6; 02-19-2010 at 01:58 AM. Reason: I'm correcting a grammar mistake
One of the things I do when I'm working for someone and I've got the car ready to wax is, I say, "Let me ask you a trick question. What do you think of that wax job?" Of course, there's no wax on the car, that's what makes it a trick question.
The difference between waxed and not waxed isn't that much.
Lately, I've been using Hi-lustre sealants and waxes. There are a bunch of good ones out there but these work well and are easy. The car I did for the National Roadster show called "Mercules" won best paint and 4 other awards so I know my work compares favorably with other top end guys.
The bottom line is: Get the paint right before you wax it then find something that won't take you backwards. Hi-Lustre works for me.
The bottom line is: Get the paint right before you wax it then find something that won't take you backwards. Hi-Lustre works for me.[/QUOTE]
Amen to that!
That's the real secret. If your final polishing and swirl removing step is on the money, you can then use a wax or a polymer for protection, but you're not going to achieve a much improved shine over a well done final polishing procedure.
If you have removed all of the peel with your recently painted substrate, you shouldn't have to use an aggressive compound. If you use the right pad procedure and a very fine grit polish like Sure - Finish or Menzerna Intensive polish, the gloss will be right where you want it.
You can then use whatever you wish for protection.
LS6