Painting Tips

[Mr70Mopar]

Hello all, first post.

I have been priming and working on a 1972 Charger for a few weeks and we are as good as we are gonna get and want to paint. I have a few concerns:

1. During priming process I was using the JP202 2K primer. I used it as a filler. The Psheet said 1.6 - 2.0 tip. I shot it with the 1.6 at a 4:1 ratio and I got alot of dry spray and a pebbly finish. Is that over spray? Is it the wrong tip?

2. On subsequent sprays, I added some reducer and got it to flow. I have a regulator at the gun and it says 40lbs when I pull the trigger.

3. I have a couple places to finish up some glazing putty, then I will shoot primer over them, then I intend to seal the primer and shoot the paint. Correct? We are going with yellow so I was gonna seal it white.

4. I am scard of the overspray problems I had with the spray filler carrying over to my paint, I will be using a medium reducer, even in the 60 degree temps I will be shooting in. I am doing this in hopes that the paint will flow and not get a rough finish.

5. I am using shop line plus for the Detonator Yellow. Comments?

6. Lots of concerns here I know, the material will cost me $600 or so, which is not the end of the world if I screw up, but I really don't want to screw the base up. I know with clear you can cut and polish out a lot of mistakes w/overspray.

I have a small compressor, 26 Gal, 5 hp. I have a conventional sharpe gun. I will be using 1.4 tip for paint and 1.6 tip for clear. I have researched this to death, I just need help on the technique.

When spraying a whole car, how do you avoid overspray?

[Len]

1. During priming process I was using the JP202 2K primer. I used it as a filler. The Psheet said 1.6 - 2.0 tip. I shot it with the 1.6 at a 4:1 ratio and I got alot of dry spray and a pebbly finish. Is that over spray? Is it the wrong tip?

When you get that type of sandpaper finish it's usually cause by putting the product on too dry. IOW Either the paint is too thick, the tip is too small or you moved the gun too fast or held it too far from the surface. In many cases it's a combination of more than one reason.

2. On subsequent sprays, I added some reducer and got it to flow. I have a regulator at the gun and it says 40lbs when I pull the trigger.

Different model sprayguns take different inlet pressures. Use the pressure that the gun is engineered for.

3. I have a couple places to finish up some glazing putty, then I will shoot primer over them, then I intend to seal the primer and shoot the paint. Correct? We are going with yellow so I was gonna seal it white.

Yes, you're correct, just make sure you apply the sealer, allow it to flash then apply your paint within the recoat window.

4. I am scard of the overspray problems I had with the spray filler carrying over to my paint, I will be using a medium reducer, even in the 60 degree temps I will be shooting in. I am doing this in hopes that the paint will flow and not get a rough finish.

When you use a slower reducer than recommended you need to be careful of a couple of things.
1. Allow enough time after your first coat for the paint to dry to the touch before applying your second and third coats.
2. Overspray will be wet in the air so that anything downwind will get painted. Move the wife's car far away.
3. Because the solvent will take longer to evaporate it can cause a reaction with any unstable substrate.

5. I am using shop line plus for the Detonator Yellow. Comments?

Some yellow colors are more translucent than others be sure you have good coverage before you apply your clear.

6. Lots of concerns here I know, the material will cost me $600 or so, which is not the end of the world if I screw up, but I really don't want to screw the base up. I know with clear you can cut and polish out a lot of mistakes w/overspray.

When applying your base don't worry about getting is smooth and glossy just make sure it achieves coverage. Your clear will be your gloss coat.

The same rules apply for the clear, after the base is dry enough you can shoot your first coat of clear then allow it to dry to the touch before applying your second coat.

I have a small compressor, 26 Gal, 5 hp. I have a conventional sharpe gun. I will be using 1.4 tip for paint and 1.6 tip for clear. I have researched this to death, I just need help on the technique.

When spraying a whole car, how do you avoid overspray?
You're going to get A LOT of over spray using a Sharpe conventional gun, in fact you're probably only going to apply about 35% of the material to the car. You MUST protect yourself properly and vent the room while you spray. Spraying paint can be dangerous if you're not wearing the proper protection and spraying paint that contains a hardener is MUCH MORE dangerous than products with no hardener.

[Mr70Mopar]

Thanks!

I do not have to do the roof, so I am thinking start with the hood, center, go to one edge, change sides of the car, start at center, go to edge. Then do I do the fenders or do I move to the trunk since it is also a "top" side of the car?

If I find myself tigerstriping, which I did while priming, can you really get rid of that with a few more sprays while wet or should I let it flash then hit the base again?

Does the DVD painting 101 cover these questions?

[Len]

You want to chase the dry edge of your spraying all the way around the car. You don't want to start in the middle of anything especially the hood. I usually recommend that you start at the right rear quarter and spray in overlapping passes from the tail lamp to the door then spray the door, the finder the hood to the middle, across the front, from the middle of the hood to the bottom of the other fender then the other door and quarter and finially across the trunk lid to where you started.

You're using a spray gun that would be a real challenge for most novice painters so it may be best if you try spraying a test panel with some old paint first before you attack your project.

The 101 video shows a lot about spraying including gun adjustments and spraying technique but it can't cover ALL of the variables involved in every job. Just remember to take your time and not rush through the spraying process. The more knowledge and experience you have the better the outcome will be.

[Mr70Mopar]

Len

What is a better gun?

I am buying at least $600 in material. Also, I intend to paint my car (this is my son's car) and a car for my other son. I do not mind having a decent gun.

Finishline 3? Sata? what? I would prefer a "decent" gun not a top of the line. I have a junk gun, I have the Sharpe and you are saying I should use another. I would consider it based on the price.

Thanks!