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Thread: orange peel question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    20

    Default orange peel question

    With the spray gun set up to spray at say six inches with the air and material set for a good spray pattern, if you spray too fast will this cause the material to have orange peel?

    Sorry if this is a dumb question, just trying to get a better understanding of what causes orange peel

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Bay Area, California
    Posts
    244

    Default

    Well this is what I have learned first hand over the last 4 months. I already knew being too far away would lead to orange peel. Also knew not enough volume would do the same thing. After that it becomes how fast I was moving. Too fast and I was ahead of the paint and not enough to flow out. Too slow and you get runs. I was only slow just one time in just one place. Still trying to master the speed issue. Also learned not to paint when the temperature is over 95F at least for me. Even with slow reducer I could see the paint not leveling itself while I could see it at lower temperatures. Tend to use slow reducer at about 20% and between 75-85 degrees I can get the paint smooth enough I have no need to color sand if my speed is right. Of course this summer has been tough since many of my off days have been between 90-103 degrees. Still have one fender to repaint and today it was 101...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    In The Shop
    Posts
    3,470

    Default Speed

    Too fast will get dry spray.

    Too slow and/or too close will get you orange peel and/or runs.

    The type and brand gun will have bearing also.

    As will air pressure.
    [SIGPIC]

  4. #4

    Default

    Yep....mine was not enough air pressure from the tank:mad:

  5. #5

    Default

    General rule -

    If the clear dries before it can level out you get orange peel. If it dries too slow, you get runs or sags. That's the compromise we all deal with.

    In my own work, I tend to get glass smooth horizontal surfaces because I'm not afraid to lay the paint on wet, but on vertical surfaces I go faster to reduce runs and get orange peel. Such is life.

    Atomization, speed of reducers and hardeners, temperature, and speed of application all play into it.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    160

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave C
    General rule -

    If the clear dries before it can level out you get orange peel. If it dries too slow, you get runs or sags. That's the compromise we all deal with.

    In my own work, I tend to get glass smooth horizontal surfaces because I'm not afraid to lay the paint on wet, but on vertical surfaces I go faster to reduce runs and get orange peel. Such is life.

    Atomization, speed of reducers and hardeners, temperature, and speed of application all play into it.
    Man, You guys are making it sounds so scarry for a beginner! (like me)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    23,709

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave C
    General rule -

    If the clear dries before it can level out you get orange peel. If it dries too slow, you get runs or sags. That's the compromise we all deal with.

    In my own work, I tend to get glass smooth horizontal surfaces because I'm not afraid to lay the paint on wet, but on vertical surfaces I go faster to reduce runs and get orange peel. Such is life.

    Atomization, speed of reducers and hardeners, temperature, and speed of application all play into it.
    You'll find that a spray gun that atomizes and distributes the paint evenly throughout its pattern can lay paint on the sides as smoothly as it lays paint on the top surfaces. The reason for this is that the smaller droplets hit the surface close together and flow into a smooth coating without needing to be applied heavily to get it to flow well. The DeVilbiss Plus and Tekna are great for this feature but there are many other quality guns that can also achieve this type of finish when used with the right nozzle size for the material being sprayed.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    23,709

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by divinity
    Man, You guys are making it sounds so scarry for a beginner! (like me)
    The best way go get past the fear is to start doing it. Once you spray enough you'll start working out the variables and producing good paint jobs.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Len is 100% right. I hadn't sprayed in quite a few years and just recently started again. Bought a few cheap guns that were junk and ended up tossing them. Moved up to a finishline 3 which is ok. Ended up buying an Iwata lph-400 because of all I had read. I was really excited because it was supposed to lay clear out like glass. The first couple of small test pieces I sprayed were total crap. Orange peeled like crazy....then I decided to use the recommended air pressure instead of what I "thought" would work best and now I know why it is so highly recommended. Best information I can give you is to start out with the best gun you can afford and get a hood, fender, or something to practice on. It's not going to take long for you to get the gun and your hand dialed in.

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