93 bonneville stationary glass.

[MikeP]

Chugging along on my resto, I have totally cleaned the area around the windsheild and back glass, including all minor rust from previous glass replacements. Question: How do I want to treat that area so the windshield sealer adheres properly. Also, this car seemed to have the big bead of "stuff" that looks like it came from a calk gun, while my Olds eighty-eight, which is primarily the same car, looks like it has a thick, dense, foam style gasket with a think layer of adhesive on both sides - that is: body/adhesive/gasket/adhesive/windshield.. What should be done to my Bonneville? I was planning on properly finishing the area around the glass, then reinstalling the glass without the finish moulding, the proceeding with the rest of the paint work. Any suggestions? Thanks. Mike

[MARTINSR]

The "right" way as writen by ICAR and the glass industry is epoxy primer over bare metal, PERIOD. Anything else and you are possibly putting a nylon tie as a link in your tow chain.

The windows are set with a urethane bead. Both cars you have used this urethane setting method. The difference is one had a foam "damn" installed so the urethane stays where they wanted it.

Brian

[Len]

We prep and paint the area where the glass seal is to seat. We usually use black urethane or Zero Rust.

The foam tape is usually damming tape that is used with caulk gun type urethanes to help prevent them from squeezing out. Most replacements done on your model is done with "ribbon" sealer like that pictured below. After the glass is cleaned the ribbon is placed around the edge and the glass laid in position. Small rubber blocks are used on the bottom to help hold the glass up, these usually are included with the ribbon kit. These kits come in round or rectangular ribbon in 15' lengths. I sell these kits for $12.

3M Windshield Installation Ribbon

[MikeP]

Thanks for the info, but I have a few more questions. Len, you are saying that after I get that area down to bare metal, I can just brush over the bare metal with my zero rust, then install the glass directly to it? Should I prep the bare metal with anything prior to the zero rust? By the way, I have used the zero rust from you on many occasions, and I like it a lot! also, that link you gave me to the ribbon, when I removed both pieces of glass, I had a very thick bead of sealant maybe about 1/2" thick, and the glass was flush with the body, so it seemed correct, and that ribbon appears to be thinner than this. Also, I have removed all the sealant from the glass - all I have is the black factory coating on the glass, do I need anything to prep that? thanks again.

[SamG]

That 93 Bonneville's windshield and back glass are set in urethane. If you have stripped the repair area down to metal, then you need to (as someone else mentioned) epoxy prime the area, prepare and paint, let cure completely, then brush a primer made specifically for your brand of urethane on the pinchweld area. Lay down a nice bead of high-viscosity urethane (I like Essex (u-418, or something like that)), then set the glass.

The high viscosity urethane requires a humdinger of a caulking gun or forearms like Popeye (or both) to pump. I have an air-powered caulking gun, but prefer doing it manually. I lay down a bead about 7/16" perfectly round (dont let the tip of the tube touch the surface...like getting toothpaste to look like it does in pictures). Warming the tubes of urethane before use in front of a small space heater works wonders, but check the expiration dates on both your urethane and urethane primers...don't risk using some that's out of date...It'll have chunks in it, or you'll find out that it's bad too late...after the paint store is closed.

One alternative is to have a local professional glass service install the glass. The guys that do it around here will do it for less than 50 bucks and supply their own primer and urethane.

SamG

PS If I remember correctly, the upper windshield moulding (and maybe the complete back glass moulding) need to be installed onto the glass before it's set....you'll never get it in correctly otherwise. I know that's the case on a 95 model.

[MikeP]

Honestly, seems like a job I'll save for an installer, might be 100 bucks (for both) well spent. And yes, on both front and rear, the moulding goes over the glass before it gets installed, but on the front upper, the reveal chrome piece gets snapped in afterward, had the windshield replaced on the car twice during its normal life, once the guy did it immediately after the glass was installed, and once the next day because he came out with a black moulding and mine needed the chrome insert.
So, epoxy prime then paint it BB/CC with the rest of the car and that is all that would be needed before I call in the glass guys? There appeared to have been a matte black something brushed on over the factory paint, was that the primer? I just want to be sure that I don't have an adhesion problem. Right now, I have lightly sprayed the bare metal with a rattle can paint to keep it from rusting, I have a ways to go before I paint. Don't want any problems, and the glass guys are VERY vague.. Mike.

[Len]

I usually have the glass channel painted as a "cut in" then I install the glass before I paint the rest of the car. Less chance of damage that way.