TheCoatingStore.com

Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: 2K Primer over base coat?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    532

    Default 2K Primer over base coat?

    I am painting some chrome trim pieces.

    I sandblasted the chrome to scuff haze it up.

    Hit it with epoxy primer. The epoxy had a little orange peel, so I hit it with some 320 then 600 dry.

    Then sprayed the black basecoat.

    All that was good except I must not have quite got all of the 320 scratches out because they are very visible.

    Can I just scuff the black, hit it with some 2K primer, and properly block the 2K with 400 or 600 wet?

    The pieces are irregular (like most trim pieces), so it's difficult to do a true block sand on them.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    2,585

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by turbocobra
    I am painting some chrome trim pieces.

    I sandblasted the chrome to scuff haze it up.

    Hit it with epoxy primer. The epoxy had a little orange peel, so I hit it with some 320 then 600 dry.

    Then sprayed the black basecoat.

    All that was good except I must not have quite got all of the 320 scratches out because they are very visible.

    Can I just scuff the black, hit it with some 2K primer, and properly block the 2K with 400 or 600 wet?

    The pieces are irregular (like most trim pieces), so it's difficult to do a true block sand on them.
    I'm thinking if you just wetsand now with 600 you should be fine but I can't see the scratches and I'm sure pics won't do justice. Better to be safe though. If you're spraying over just basecoat I'd put it in the sun first or give it long flash times. I can't really say though cause I've never sprayed a 2k straight over base but I can imagine crinkling.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    27,466

    Default

    I would apply the clear because you're probably going to see the scratches disappear. If you can still see the 320 scratches after clearing then you can scuff with some 600 and re-apply your base and clear just don't go through the clear when sanding.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    532

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Len
    I would apply the clear because you're probably going to see the scratches disappear. If you can still see the 320 scratches after clearing then you can scuff with some 600 and re-apply your base and clear just don't go through the clear when sanding.
    Putting the clear on would definitely be easier, but I would not have guessed the clear would make scratches under black basecoat disappear?

    So I will try the clear tonight and if that doesn't make it better, I will wet sand the clear and apply more base and clear.

    Thanks!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    532

    Default

    btw, i sprayed the base last night, and I won't get a chance to put the clear on tomorrow night. Is that ok? or does the base need to be sanded and more base put on before the clear goes on?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Kamloops. B.C.
    Posts
    1,976

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by turbocobra
    btw, i sprayed the base last night, and I won't get a chance to put the clear on tomorrow night. Is that ok? or does the base need to be sanded and more base put on before the clear goes on?
    Recoat or open window is specific to the product. Check your tech sheet for the base you're using. I suspect that you are outside the recoat window.

    Steve g

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    532

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve g
    Recoat or open window is specific to the product. Check your tech sheet for the base you're using. I suspect that you are outside the recoat window.

    Steve g
    Good call, just looked at the tech sheet and it's maximum 24 hours to clear.

    So I will sand the base, apply 2 more coats of base, then hit it with clear.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Kamloops. B.C.
    Posts
    1,976

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by turbocobra
    Good call, just looked at the tech sheet and it's maximum 24 hours to clear.

    So I will sand the base, apply 2 more coats of base, then hit it with clear.
    In as much as you have to sand the base to recoat just sand the 320 scratches out and rebase and clear.

    The suggestions to continue on to your clear then redo would be what you would/should do to stay in your recoat window. Sanding base is something that should be avoided if at all possible. You want to get your clear on as soon as possible after your base. Some paint manufacturers don't want you to sand their bases at all because of the potential for adhesion problems. The longer it's left uncovered the more possiblity for contamination as well. It's a good idea to not shoot your base unless you've planned for and have ample time to shoot your clear in the same session.


    Steve g

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    637

    Default


    i always notice you see more sand scratches in black then other colors. I agree with the rest of the guys put clear onit see what happens

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •