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Thread: My Project-V8 Ranger

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    31

    Default My Project-V8 Ranger

    I thought I would post a few pics to show the progress I have made. I had this 85 Ford Ranger I paid 100 dollars for. Somebody gave me a 302 and a C-4tranny. I did the V-8 conversion, drove it up and down the street a few times, then tore it down to the frame. The floors were completely rusted out. I made my own floor pans(what a learning experiance). They are fastened with panel adhesive and bucked rivets around the edges and welded to the braces on the bottom. I sprayed the epoxy primer. It was the first time I have ever sprayed anything out of a gun. The 15min induction time was the longest 15min I have ever seen. That went really well. I had problems cleaning the gun after that. It was very difficult to clean. The next day, I started applying the herculiner undercoating. At first I thought I had made a mistake because I did not like the way it looking. After a few touch up coats, I am liking it more. Thanks to everyone who posts here.
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  2. #2

    Default

    Make sure post some pictures when it's done, I would like to see it!

    I also have a 1985 Ranger that needs a paint job real bad.....thinking about the 302 conversion myself.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Posts
    746

    Default

    great job on that floor pan

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    manitoba
    Posts
    120

    Default

    although i dont have any pics of the truck the prettiest ranger i have ever seen was done in gold metalic black with pearl(no really i helped mix the paint expensive stuff) this was offset with a fancy silver decal and full ground effects package.

    From experience though floorpans should always be fully welded then painted and tarred not seam sealer or urethane. (note only tar any weld or seams not whole thing)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    28,185

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Primal View Post
    although i dont have any pics of the truck the prettiest ranger i have ever seen was done in gold metalic black with pearl(no really i helped mix the paint expensive stuff) this was offset with a fancy silver decal and full ground effects package.

    From experience though floorpans should always be fully welded then painted and tarred not seam sealer or urethane. (note only tar any weld or seams not whole thing)
    Wow, you must be an old guy, I haven't heard of anyone putting "tar" on a seam for 30 years. Reason: It cracks up and falls off as it ages, drys and shrinks. Using a good urethane seam sealer will cover the seam with a seal that remains flexible and adheres great.
    :0

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    manitoba
    Posts
    120

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Len View Post
    Wow, you must be an old guy, I haven't heard of anyone putting "tar" on a seam for 30 years. Reason: It cracks up and falls off as it ages, drys and shrinks. Using a good urethane seam sealer will cover the seam with a seal that remains flexible and adheres great.
    :0
    No actually if you use roofing tar it will do that i dont. seam sealer absorbs water like a sponge i use tar on all my seems because it simply doesnt absorb water and if you use right stuff stays moist.

    Almost all older cars you will ever see the rust is all around seam sealer where the original tarred joints will be rust free... the tar will fall off but im more concerned about rust myself.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    28,185

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Primal View Post
    No actually if you use roofing tar it will do that i dont. seam sealer absorbs water like a sponge i use tar on all my seems because it simply doesnt absorb water and if you use right stuff stays moist.

    Almost all older cars you will ever see the rust is all around seam sealer where the original tarred joints will be rust free... the tar will fall off but im more concerned about rust myself.
    Yes, the older types of seam sealers that are solvent based did/does dry and crack but the newer urethane products work great. They can cost $10 or $15 for a caulk tube but they are worth every penny. They bond to the surface very well and get like hard rubber and never crack.

  8. #8

    Default

    sounds good ot me
    smith

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    31

    Default Some Progress

    I finally made some progress on my truck. I did not have much filler work to do, it just took me awhile to get it good enough. I think most of my filler wound up on the floor, but now I know what I am looking for. I shot the epoxy this evening and will spray the 2k tomorrow. The gun cleaning video was a really big help, Thanks Len.

    Question-the truck was blue in and out, i will be painting it black in and out. Do you spray the inside and outside seperately. I was thinking "dry spray" if you tried to do them all at once.
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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    3,490

    Default inside first...

    Quote Originally Posted by zmanak View Post
    I finally made some progress on my truck. I did not have much filler work to do, it just took me awhile to get it good enough. I think most of my filler wound up on the floor, but now I know what I am looking for. I shot the epoxy this evening and will spray the 2k tomorrow. The gun cleaning video was a really big help, Thanks Len.

    Question-the truck was blue in and out, i will be painting it black in and out. Do you spray the inside and outside seperately. I was thinking "dry spray" if you tried to do them all at once.
    I would do the inside first so my concentration would only be on that. Then tape so the jams get painted with the truck. Tape carefully not to get any overspray leaks inside. Keep us posted. Henry

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