Help, freshly blasted metal showing signs of surface rust!

[ispeedalot]

Totally new here and pretty green to painting cars but was hoping some of you more experienced (mostly everyone LOL) could recommended or give some advise as to what I should do; I just recently picked up the shell from the media blaster today and on the way home I got caught in some light rain. It by no way was soaked but between the rain and humidity I can see surface rust already. The plan was to have it striped, brought home and cleaned of media, wiped down with degreaser and then primed with some DP40LF epoxy. I needed to do some sheet metal replacement even though the car is pretty solid and I wanted to get all the grease, grime, and undercoating off before doing so. Because this is going to be an ongoing process, I was led to believe that the epoxy was my best option in protecting the fresh metal till I could finish all the work. Now I need to remove the surface rust that has begun showing it’s ugly head and my complete shell is completely bare, every nook and cranny. I was told to use a surface prep like pickle x or something but was warned not to do so under the epoxy I was planning on using. I am also aware that you must wipe dry most of it so as not to leave a residue on the surface or you could have future adhesion problems. I am completely new to using all these primers, sealers, fillers etc, etc. I read and study as much as I can but with so many products and different opinions, I feel a little over whelmed. I am using my vacation to do this but the vendor finished my car early. Now I have a week before I’m even going to be off. I could sand the large areas but there are so many tight areas and crevices that it will be almost impossible to get to all the areas. What can I do to prep the metal before spraying the epoxy if this is indeed my best option?

[Len]

Totally new here and pretty green to painting cars but was hoping some of you more experienced (mostly everyone LOL) could recommended or give some advise as to what I should do; I just recently picked up the shell from the media blaster today and on the way home I got caught in some light rain. It by no way was soaked but between the rain and humidity I can see surface rust already. The plan was to have it striped, brought home and cleaned of media, wiped down with degreaser and then primed with some DP40LF epoxy. I needed to do some sheet metal replacement even though the car is pretty solid and I wanted to get all the grease, grime, and undercoating off before doing so. Because this is going to be an ongoing process, I was led to believe that the epoxy was my best option in protecting the fresh metal till I could finish all the work. Now I need to remove the surface rust that has begun showing it’s ugly head and my complete shell is completely bare, every nook and cranny. I was told to use a surface prep like pickle x or something but was warned not to do so under the epoxy I was planning on using. I am also aware that you must wipe dry most of it so as not to leave a residue on the surface or you could have future adhesion problems. I am completely new to using all these primers, sealers, fillers etc, etc. I read and study as much as I can but with so many products and different opinions, I feel a little over whelmed. I am using my vacation to do this but the vendor finished my car early. Now I have a week before I’m even going to be off. I could sand the large areas but there are so many tight areas and crevices that it will be almost impossible to get to all the areas. What can I do to prep the metal before spraying the epoxy if this is indeed my best option?

Picklex 20 would be your best bet. You would spray or brush it on, leave it for a minute then wipe it off. After it fully dries you can use epoxy primer as long as the primer contains NO acid. Read the MSDS info to determine if your primer is suitable. Prior to priming I usually scuff the surface lightly with some 180 or 220 dry sandpaper. The Picklex will remove light rust and convert heavy rust so that you can prime and paint but it will also protect the metal from further rusting so you don't need to prime immediately. We have Picklexed bare metal in our shop that has been sitting for a year with no sign of rusting. For further info on Picklex check out our information page located HERE. To purchase this product check out the link below.

Picklex 20 Link

[ispeedalot]

Len, The PPG epoxy (DP40LF) does in fact list that it has an acid in it. Someone recommended this stuff (www.zerorustusa.com/prepstep.php), do you have any experience or recommendations using it. It claims to be acid free so I am assuming it can be used under the epoxy that I have listed. I was also concerned about the pickle X gathering in areas that I might not be able to wipe down or get at with out more than just an air hose such as seems and inner panels. Prep step didn't list excess removal as a requirement.

[Len]

Len, The PPG epoxy (DP40LF) does in fact list that it has an acid in it. Someone recommended this stuff (www.zerorustusa.com/prepstep.php), do you have any experience or recommendations using it. It claims to be acid free so I am assuming it can be used under the epoxy that I have listed. I was also concerned about the pickle X gathering in areas that I might not be able to wipe down or get at with out more than just an air hose such as seems and inner panels. Prep step didn't list excess removal as a requirement.

I've used Prep Step a couple of time and couldn't tell the difference from before to after. It may be a good product but after seeing Picklex 20 at work I never went back to PS. I looked up the PS manufacturer's recommendations and it doesn't recommend any particular type of coating so I guess you can put anything on top. :confused:

[PSB]

I looked up the MSDS for Prep Step and it looks like it is mostly just Trisodium Phosphate (TSP). Its basically an old fashioned detergent that has fallen out of favor since it contains phosphate which is a powerful fertilizer that promotes algae growth in lakes and ponds...but good for your yard. You can find it in the paint section at Lowes or Home Depot for probably a lot less money.

It is a powder that is mixed with water and works real well to remove dirt, oil, and grease. I've used it to clean stuff that I painted with Alkyd Enamel, however, it may not be compatible with epoxy and 2K products. It is a strong base rather than an acid so I don't think it will etch steel and convert rust like Phosphoric Acid, however, it can corrode non-ferrous metal. On steel, the TSP residue left on the surface could possibly raise the PH and prevent future corrosion as ZR claims. But I would be leery of any residue on the surface when using catalyzed products like epoxy.

[Joseph]

DPLF is fine over Picklex. I shot the roof and firewall of my car seven years ago. It's still in epoxy primer and looks great. Sandblasted metal, treated with Picklex, then epoxy primed. After the Picklex dries, scuff off the chalky residue. I don't believe it's a problem if there's some discoloration. If you're using Picklex in a spray bottle, you can set the nozzle to mist it on so that you're not dumping the stuff on in a solid stream. I usually keep a bunch of old toothbrushes and things like that around in case I need to get into any crevices like that.

[oldhotrodder]

Can I use it over picklex?

[Len]

Can I use it over picklex?

As long as it doesn't have acid in it you're ok.