scuff pads

[Hannibal]

Can I use a scuff pad (FINE) just before my topcoat? I really love the ease of use and the ability to get into cracks (vs sandpaper) . I will be painting over NASON 2K urethane primer using NASON paint system.
I was told to sand to 400 grit, so would a fine scuff (Scotch?) pad be ok? So much easier.

Please reply

[Len]

A scuff pad will scratch the surface so that it will hold paint but it won't remove the surface and make it smooth like sandpaper will. I usually use a scuff pad in tight or shaped areas where sandpaper doesn't work as well but I use sandpaper on exterior surfaces where I need to finish to be it's best.

[Hannibal]

So I can use a scuff pad in tight spots, but I should use sandpaper on larger areas? I have some 400 grit. is that the best grit prior to topcoat?
Thanks

[Len]

400 dry sandpaper is good for sanding before painting. 400 wet sandpaper is more coarse and can show scratches under some metallic colors but is fine under solid colors. If you're using an inexpensive metallic base coat AND you are planning on wet sanding your primer you may want to use a 500 or 600 grit.

[Hannibal]

no, I will not wetsand the primer. I will use a 400 grit. I am using NASON Midnight Blue Metallic, and Light blue.

[mmooney84]

You can wet sand the primer with 500 or 600 grit. You might want to seal the primer when you are done sanding it. I use Nason 422-23. Nason bases dont cover that well either so I would mix the paint 2 paint to 1 reducer for the first coat or two then back to 1 to 1 for the last coat.

[Serge]

400 dry is good for metalics. The maroon scuff pads are good for areas that you can't sand very well and anywhere the sandpaper would be too agressive like on door and hood edges when sanding over old finishes. Like Len said, the scotchbrite will scratch but will do nothing to smooth your surface.

Make sure the car is one even color before you start painting, especially with cheep basecoat like nason...A sealer will do this and will help with adhesion and sand scratch filling....This way you will insure that the color will be even when done.

Just my 2 cents.

[Hannibal]

Ok, I know that I need to seal prior to topcoat. But they told me I have to paint right after sealing. The nason specs say that if it sets overnight, I have to scuff and reshoot sealer.
Is there a cheaper paint to get other than NASON? I told them I wanted mid-range paint. One guy showed me his truck that he used NASON on, it was a black Chevy pickup. It looked great. Gloss black is very easy to see mistakes, runs etc.
I am hoping that my time in preperation will pay iff even though I am using NASON. I have leveled out the body, filled in holes, seam sealed, treated/removed rust, replaced floor pans. I even ran a #6 wire around my windshield gaskets to hide the paint seam, so it doesnt look like a backyard job. I am following all precautions,

**WIll a regular tack cloth suffice just prior to priming?

[mmooney84]

You ought to use wax and grease remover prior to priming. As far as nason goes I dont think you will be dissapointed. The only difference between Nason and chromabase is chromabase has more mettalics and pearls. I use Nason paints all the time on my cheap jobs and they always turn out great. I use nason clears too and I add 10% reducer to my clear. It makes it alittle harder to shoot but when you figure it out your jobs come out smooth as glass.

[Hannibal]

When you say reducer, are you talking about "activator"? or "Hardener"? I thought all clear coats require a "reducer"? WHat exactly is that? I am confused now LOL. could you explain the difference in those terms?

**PS One more thing...... Besides the reducer for a 2K urethane primer, do you have to use paint thinner? Or do I just pour of can, reduce 4:1 (per instructions) and go?

[Hannibal]

PS I am going to use wax and grease remover, but I thought I heard you should tack the surface too.

I always felt like those tack rags could leave a "gum" on the surface or something.

[Roch_Greg]

If you rub the surface really hard with them some will, your supposed to "lightly" drag it across the surface.

I've used 3M's new Sonatra line (they have a primary and final tack) the final tack is great for between coats as it doesn't seem to have as much or any stick to it.

[Len]

PS I am going to use wax and grease remover, but I thought I heard you should tack the surface too.

I always felt like those tack rags could leave a "gum" on the surface or something.

Grease and wax remover will remove grease and wax while tack rags remove light dust. Both are needed to do the job properly.

Decent tack rags cost about $1 each and can be used a couple of times if used and stored properly. We use Detro Tack Rags because they don't leave a film, remove a little static and cost less than most others of the same caliber.

Detro Tack Rag Link

[Kent]

So for verification, after you have your primer ready to go, it is ok to scuff the rest of the panel with a grey scotchbrite pad even if you are doing metallics. Or, are you saying that it is best to use sandpaper up to 600 grit instead of the scotchbrite?

[Len]

When you're going to scuff the surface for blending the scuff pads usually are NOT the way to go because they don't give you an even scratch. I would use scuffing paste or sandpaper to get a nice even scratch across the surface. Before we had scuffing paste we used cleanser but the scuffing paste does a better job.

Scuff Stuff