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Thread: 65 Belvedere

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    5

    Default 65 Belvedere

    OK
    Need some advice on body and paint work. This car has been sitting for about 15 years under primer with 99% body work done. But now it has some surface rust in area's were the primer is thin, has some bubbling around the trunk lip, and has a few dings here and there. I plan to tackle this car my self, and this is my first paint job. I have been thinking about using a single stage system (Urethane) that I was told is easy to use and save a bunch of work, and money.
    Here is the plan, I plan on sanding the car down with 220 grit to remove most if not all the old primer, then come back with a primer sealer. Now after this do I need to use a regular primer over top of the sealer? I mean can this sealer be sanded, and painted right over?
    I plan to use a DA 380 grit for final work down, then possibly blocking the car out with a 400, or will 380 work ok?
    I know very little about paint mixing etc. So adding the activator, and hardener etc.
    How many coats of paint will the car require? I was thinking two minimal, 3 tops.
    I'm thinking that 1 gallon will do it. I mean when you reduce it down properly, doesn't 1 gallon of paint equal 1 1/2- 1 3/4 gallons?
    I will have lots of questions in the next few months, so bare with me... Here is some pics for you guys.
    Remember this car has been sitting in this condition for at least 15 years.





  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Oh
    and here is the heart a all new 572 CID Hemi with CNC ported heads. This will be based off a A990 just much better.




  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    2,608

    Default

    Here's my advice, Bob. This car is too much work, and not worth a dime. Ship it to Fairbanks Alaska, and I'll take the junk off your hands for ya'.

    Seriously, you'll find detailed answers to most (all?) of your questions in Classroom section of this website, and by searching the forum threads. Not trying to be a jerk- just pointing out that there is a tremendous amount of good, detailed info there.

    Very cool car. My first was a '65 Belvedere II. Like most everyone else, I wish I still had it. But mine had the 318 poly (and later, a 440). Yours should end up quite a bit quicker than mine ever was. Good luck, & keep us posted.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    orange county california
    Posts
    367

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by alaskajeff
    Here's my advice, Bob. This car is too much work, and not worth a dime. Ship it to Fairbanks Alaska, and I'll take the junk off your hands for ya'.
    Jeff is right, thats a real Piece of crap you got there, tell you what, I will comeout and pick it up personally.
    ~ There is no substitute for hard work. ~

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Wake Forest, NC
    Posts
    5,134

    Default

    Great project!!!

  6. #6

    Default

    I would remove all the old primer and examine/redo the existing bodywork. That is a long time to sit unprotected (no topcoat).

    I have a 65 Satellite and to paint everything as original that was body color took a bit over 2 gallons. I panel painted everything apart, assembled and then shot everything again to even it out so I may have used a bit more than you would.

    You are going to have some $$ in this car so do it right. I have a Hemi A-Body so I know how it is.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    256

    Default

    lacquer-primer just doesn't cut it. Air (with moisture) and water can go right through it. If it's going to last, the bare metal needs epoxy first, then fillers and other primers (polyester or 2k)...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Wake Forest, NC
    Posts
    5,134

    Default

    Since it has been sitting that long, I would definately take it down to the bare metal. If it was shot with a lacquer primer you probably have some rust beneath the paint. I would treat the sheetmetal with Picklex or another phospohoric acid product and then apply a good epoxy primer. I generally use PPG DP (expensive) but there are plenty of others alternatives. I use PPG K-36 as a high build primer. Depending on the color or process, the manufacturer may recommend using a sealer. For a single stage topcoat I use PPG DCC urethane. Took about a gallon and a half for my 67 GTO. Note: The transfer efficiency of your gun can make a big difference on how much paint you use.

    This can be a really nice, valuable car. Don't go cheap on materials-you'll regret it later. There are plenty of pros on here who can guide you through the process.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Awesome !!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    600

    Default

    A friend of mine had a 64 with push button shifter, it was a cool car.

    I looked at that engine....... that is pretty, I just messed my chair! dual quads? nice.


    to be honest, if you are going to drop some money in to this project as i think you already have, take a 80 grit disk and go over every area that looks to have come loose or has any sign of rust in the primer, take it to bare metal and make any repairs.

    Use a milled glass filler and rage xtreme where needed.

    As I have asked here recently, epoxy prime then 2K primer and you should be good to go.

    If there is rust under the surface and is not treated/sealed to say the least, then when you put a nice coat of paint on, it will look good for a while but the rust will continue to spread and grow.

    Grind it, blast it, sandd it, but get rid of the rust before you do anything.

    looks like a nice project though..... best of luck!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    In The Shop
    Posts
    3,535

    Default Color


    What color will you paint?
    if solid paint urethane single stage
    if metallic or 2 tone paint base/clear......
    [SIGPIC]

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