hey guys I just shoot my first ever AU job and Im still learning gun controll so I was playing with distance and speed, this is the first time ive used the matrix paints as well. Ive shoot bc/cc before and got some orange peel/ texturing issues, so on this job I tried slowing down and staying 8" from the panel, on past jobs ive been faster and about 5" or 6" from panel.
So 23 psi at the gun, slow speed and 8" from panel looks like:
The paint on the hood, roof and trunk was ok , flat as glass in some spots, a little wavy in others. The sides of the car the paint looked so heavy it looked as if it was wet with water and about to fall off the car, very very wavy. I cut and buffed it and it was fine but i need to get this figured out, I cant cut and buff every job.
I think I was way to slow but if i speed up it looked like it was texturing while i was spraying.
Whats a good way to figure out my speed?
What should the paint look like right after it comes out of the gun and hits the panel?
It looked to me as it was small little x's as I sprayed and if I poured the paint to the x's it seemed to flow out but got wavy, if that makes sence at all.
Im not even sure my gun was adjusted correct, my dad was watching me spray and he said it looked like the paint was bouncing off the panels, the booth was cloudy but i had just messed with my fan setup so I thought that was my issue untill he told me that.
len it looks like im ordering your dvd now, but any advice you guys might have in the mean time would be great. Im about to give up on being a painter and the paint shop idea all together, getting very frustrated!!! Some times I can lay glass other times it looks like fat lady ass. I know I need practice but paints so expensive I cant afford to waste it, so I have to practice with costomers stuff and then correct my issues after, Ive gotten real good at cutting and buffing, mabey I should just offer that, no painting
It looks good in the pics. A lot of professionals still cut and buff all there work. BUt you can play with the air pressure and maybe even add a tiny bit of reducer to your clear to try and get it good enought not to need cut and buff. Some guns are wont let you get a flat finish in your clear. My Binks MG1 makes orange peel like crazy. I have tried everything with it and couldnt make it lay flat. So I use it now as a base gun. Maybe some of the pros can chime in and give you some more advice.
My Matrix Supplier told me to reduce up to but not over 10% on their high solid clears.
What size tip and type of gun?
I guess i should have said its a single stage AU I used. No clear.
The owner only paid me $350 for the job and I bought the paint, so I guess he got a $350 paint job but I hate turning out work like that:mad:
I know its not the worst paint job in the world but it sure could have been better.
I lost big time on the job anyway. I painted everything but the palstics first, waited untill I thought it was dry and started covering it to paint the plastic and found out real quick AU does not dry as fast as bc/cc so I marked the fresh paint up. Sanded it down (should have just buffed it, thought repainting would be faster), bought a half gallon more and shoot the car over again. Then I thought the sides looked so bad I cut and buffed both sides of the car. So I ended up with 5 days of work into the job for me and my old man, $230 in paint plus sand paper, tape, compund, polish and what not, and a head ache.
I used my Finishline with a 1.3 tip.
ive got a little bit of paint left over from the job so I'll play with the air pressure. mabey lower it down a bit.
thanks for the advice guys!
any more suggestions?
If that's the case then there you have it.
HVLP is harder to lay it down slick than "RP" Reduced Pressure or another name is "compliant". These have superior atomization to HVLP.
Next time consider telling the customer if they want a "restoration" they need to pay for cut and buff. Then charge them.
By looking at the picture you can charge what is fair....alot more than you quoted.
yep HVLP. I thought that would be a ok gun, better then my old HF gun.
as for the price, with me just starting out (only 5 cars under my belt) and being in a small town, I figure if my old man and I can make $100 each off the job and it only takes 2 days we can survive for the first few cars untill I can perfect it then I'll start charging more, right now I just want the practice.
AU and Base/Clear
The gun of Len's choice for the application of AU and Clear is in the link below.
HVLP might be better for base only since it's like water.
You really should have a dedicated Base Gun
and a dedicated "Clear/Top Coat Gun".
Len says that this sprayer below spray's as good as my Jet90.
compliant guns like the one below put more on the panel than my gun.
But I love my Jet90!!:oath:
It is not HVLP :cool:
looks like i'll be ordering a new gun from len but at this rate i'll need 3 more jobs just to pay for it
just so I know, the first pics I posted, would that still be orange peel or is it urethane wave or just to heavy with the gun. I just want to know what to call it so I dont do it again!
Also does anyone have a pic or discription of what the paint SHOULD look like after it comes out of the gun and hits the panel before it flows so I have an idea what to look for while spraying..
It should look about like a factory finish just with a few dust nibs
Originally Posted by flcobra