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Thread: rear end damage advice

  1. #1
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    Default rear end damage advice

    Wondering if you guys can hae a look at these pics ... http://hotlonghairs.com/myphotos/car.html


    this guy needs a quote just to make the car pass inspection, it's a salvage. I have some good pics. I've never done a repair like this but I suspect apart from the obvious replacement parts I'd have to use a porto power in the trunk w/ wood to line up the rear deck lid and latch/ opening. Does that sound right? Then somehow also smack down the reinforcement to line up and so the bumper will fit. Hidden replacement parts I'm guessing are a reinforcement w/ bolts, latch, striker, decklid hinges(?).




    Is there anything else I should expecting? Is it hard to line up the rear decklid? I'm thinking so and probably shouldn't take this job but if he pays half up front I can get the porto power and any other thingamajig I may need. Any special tools for this? I'm thinking portopower and that thing that spreads opening? It's probably over my head but if he just wants it pass inspection it might be a good learning exp.

  2. #2
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    I'd get that cover off and have a better look. That is one odd looking hit. Your rails are likely gonna need a tug and you may be into a rear end panel (or at least some work on it). You can probably line up the decklid half decent without getting the rails into the proper position, you shouldn't though. I'd consider subbing the body repairs out to a reputable collision shop. See if you can get the cover off and you can probably get some better advice.
    My youtube vid's here

  3. #3
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    Sounds like the suprises are behind the bumper then. I thought that would just be realigning the reinforcement. The bumper can hide a lot and he's only concern is passing inspection and my concern is doing what he wants as long as the reinforcement is replaced and it's not gonna be a death mobile.

    I thought the surpises would be that decklid opening and lining up the latch.

  4. #4
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    The bumper can hide a lot no question. Have a quick look at the gaps between the quarter and rear door. If they are not even , ie tighter on one side then the other or just don't look the same at all on both sides that is a good indication of some movement on the frame rails. If he's just looking to have it fixed cosmetically it may be a job worth passing up. If your able to get the bumper cover off you'll know much better what your into. You could just tell the guy that you'll never get the decklid to line up properly without fixing any frame damage, it's somewhat true.
    My youtube vid's here

  5. #5
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    I see no tell tale indications of frame rail damage in any of the pictures. That tail panel behind the bumper cover is going to be pretty messed up but relatively easy to repair. The only area of concern that I can see is where the bumper reinforcement bolts to the tail panel and frame rail ends. Its possible it could need a pull on the frame machine in that area. Other than that you should be good to go. One problem with a porto-power in a trunk area like that is finding a place to anchor the porto-power that will line up right for pushing different parts of that tail panel back out.

    I also agree thats one strange looking hit. I really enjoy doing rear hits like that one. I'd sure like to see what that looks like with the trunk lid open and the bumper cover off. Showcar, what kind of price did you figure on charging him to do the job ? and would that price include paint work etc. One bit of advice - never take on a job unless the car is repaired right (looks like it was never in an accident when you're done). A customer can ask you to half ass a job because he's/she's too cheap or don't have the money to repair the car right. BUT when someone else asks them who half assed the repair job you can bet they will point a finger of blame at you (neglecting to tell anyone else that they didn't want to pay to have the car done right). EVERY job that goes out the door has YOUR name on it. If you do a good job maybe three people will hear about it, if you do a bad job at least 10 people will hear about it. I NEVER half ass a job, if the customer can't or won't pay me to fix the car right then I send them to someone else. Its the old adage " If you can't pay - you can't play ". short and to the point.

  6. #6
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    Back when I used to buy and sell salvage I bought a ford taurus that was hit almost Identically to this one. I actually used wood and a scizzor jack and jacked the back panel into place. Replaced the trunk and and bumper and it came out decent. Not professional... I would only reccomend to just pass inspection. There were some gap issues. I bought the car for $1600 bucks spend about $500 and a week of work and sold it for $2500. thats why I got out of that business lol. I wish I would of took pictures.

  7. #7
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    Oh and I put a piece of paneling over the jack just incase it tryed to jump up and hit me. I know it wasnt the smart thing to do. But I was trying to help a friend get into a cheap car and thought it would be an easier fix based on the pictures I saw..

  8. #8
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    Looking back I should have just spent and extra $200 bucks and had the rear panel pulled at a frame shop.

  9. #9
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    yeah, I probably shouldn't elect to put that thing back on the road. I wasn't sure what to charge or if it was possible for me since. It'd probably be a pain anyways.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by showcar
    yeah, I probably shouldn't elect to put that thing back on the road. I wasn't sure what to charge or if it was possible for me since. It'd probably be a pain anyways.

    Showcar, no on was trying to talk you out of doing the job. Its really not that involved of a job. Definately no safety issues I can see in repairing it.
    A legitimate estimate to repair that car right would be in the $3,000 to $4,000 range, assuming there is no hidden damage not visible in the pictures. He probably wanted you to do it for five or six hundred dollars. I personally like doing jobs like that but I wouldn't touch it for less than $3,000.
    If he doesn't want to spend 3 grand repairing the car then tell him to send it to the junk yard. Or if the mileage on the odometer is less than 120,000 then offer him $400 for the car, (which is more than the junk yard will give him). Buy the car from him, repair it and sell it to someone else for a tidy profit.

    If the guy had insurance on that car which is a late 1990's, then it would definately be a total with an insurance payout of around $2,000 with mileage of around 100K. The odds are that he didn't have any collision insurance on a car that old and he's trying to cheat the hangman by having you fix the car for little of nothing.

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