What technique/block to use on contour lines
So this evening I set about the simple task of finishing the block sanding of my hood that I should have done a week ago but put it off. Anyway, I've been defeated by this simple task. The problem area I have are the contours on it, you can see the line clearly in this pic where I have done (mostly anyway) the outside part..
The problem I'm having is the curved part up to the edge, trying to get all the guide coat off results in me taking too much off the 'edge', at one point the primer got so thin it is transparent, if I sand any more in that area it will go through, not wanting to ruin it I gave it up for a bit longer.
So I either have problem with my technique or I need a really soft/flexible block. Can you guys tell me what kind of block you would use for an area like this, I'm using a foam block on it but I think it's too stiff and that's causing the problem.
Oh and while I've got that pic on, you can see in the bottom corner I rubbed through a little bit, it's old clearcoat undernearth. Would that be ok to put base on or should I put more primer on and if so can I just 'spot' that area?
Unless the hood was dented there before or had hail damage,you can rest assured it probably wouldn't even need blocking flat.having said that,,just use your block sideways pointing toward the fender and the other end towards the middle of the hood and ride up the edge of the hood till the guide coat is gone.If you cut through...so.it wont show.If your unsure,grab some rattle can etch and spot it before base.On an area like that,unless its a show car..id just hand sand it by hand.
If it didn't need blocking before, it does now after I shot 2k HB primer with a 1.5 tip, LMAO
Seriously though, there were quite a few chips in it as well as a fair dent in the other side where a fat clutz had sat on it ('kin asshole, grr) which had filler on, so I did the whole thing. Took freakin ages too, must have been spraying that thing for 5 minutes per coat, top tip to anyone reading, use an appropriate tool for the job! Oh yeah and when you are spraying 3 inches from the panel because your tip is too small and you have a siphon feed with a big 1 litre pot on it, don't hit the pot against the panel while painting. Once you've done it once, don't do it again, or again after that, or again after that Not that you'd catch me doing that, oh no!
Try This Link At The Store
Try this round block.
You can put some bend in it.
If you're straightening the area where the hood bends up to the crease I would use one of two blocks.
Either the Dura Block Tear Drop or the New Dura Block Radius Block. The Radius comes in different lengths but for that I'd probably go with the longest one. Stick-On dry sandpaper or wrap wet paper wrapped around the curve works best on these blocks.
The round block 2cents recommended works best when you have a tighter curve OR you need to bend the block like around a wheel lip.
I thought you needed something flexible.
My Bad! :o
By the way I bought the biggest kit, plus the teardrop, plus an extra round one.
I cut the extra round one in half, then halved the half.
All I nee now are the raduises.
Thanks guys, new block time then. What about the sand through though?
You're leveling the surface, if you have sand-throughs it's because you are hitting the metal before the low spots are removed. This would mean that you need more filling material.
Originally Posted by Clarkey
Could also mean a high spot too. The basic thing with blocking is being mindful of digging harder in certain areas. If you just hold your block in the middle press lighter so it won't bend. Also sand lighter with your round blocks cause it naturally leaves deeper scratches. When I'm blocking I'll have 6 blocks with me for whatever contour I need. Leave your edges for last and do them lightly.