1965 Mustang Coupe - Father and Son Build

[turbocobra]

Thanks Phil. Given that this is the first bodywork i have done, I am pretty sure I didn't do some things correctly, including the filler. The fenders are original and were beat up pretty bad, so rather than skim coat the whole thing with rage extreme, i left some of the smaller dings and the filler work I did do was kind of roughed in, just thought the slick sand would be easier.

[turbocobra]

At this point, is it ok if I scuff the 2K, then slick sand, then seal with reduced epoxy/sealer?

[Len]

Thats the wrong sequence. If it is your intention to take several months of working on/off and the whole car is stripped to bare metal then you put a couple coats of epoxy to seal all the bare metal. Then you go panel by panel filling the dents and whatever other bodywork needs to be done. I don't use slick sand unless I'm working with a fiberglass panel (like a corvette thats really rough). As was previously stated - polyester primer (slick sand and several other brand names) are in reality sprayable bondo. They are chemically the same, just the polyester primer is thin enough to spray out of a spray gun. And the regular filler is spread with a squeege. Actually you shouldn't need to use polyester primer if you did your filler work correctly. A couple applications of 2K high fill primer and block sanding a couple time should be enough to get the car ready for paint. I like to thin epoxy prime down a little and use it for a final sealer coat just before shooting the basecoat followed by the clear coat.

If a car is so rough that it needs slick sand then you didn't do your filler work correctly (unless we're dealing with a really cobbled mess of a corvette, and I've seen enough of those.)

I'm with you to a point Phil.... I find that Slick Sand is a real time saver if you want to get large areas finished perfectly then, after the Slick Sand, I apply my 2K to finish the job. The Slick Sand allows me to apply filler to a large area very evenly without having to worry about irregularities generated by using a spreader to apply the filler. Great stuff for large jobs and, yes, it's real good for leveling the irregularities in fiberglass panels.

[Len]

At this point, is it ok if I scuff the 2K, then slick sand, then seal with reduced epoxy/sealer?

That should be fine. What color is the finished car going to be?

[turbocobra]

Probably some combination of Candy red and silver.

[Bob K]

Just a quick question turbocobra, when you say 2k, are you talking about epoxy? That is in fact a two part product but when I say 2k I am talking about a two part primer surfacer that needs to be sanded to shape (not epoxy). Maybe we are saying the same words but meaning different things. At my shop 2k is the last thing sprayed and then blocked before base coat paint.

Bob K

[turbocobra]

Bob, yes, 2K as in primer surfacer that is sanded. I sprayd the car with epoxy first, then primer/surfacer, Omni 182 to be specific.

Thanks,

[turbocobra]

We had planned all along to put a 2JZ-GTE Toyota Twin Turbo Inline 6 in the car. Made the purchase yesterday. This car came originally with an inline 6, so not too far fetched. But you purists... please don't hate! This car will not be riced out, it will be tastefully done.

[turbocobra]

Starting on the Suspension System. We made the video with iMovie on my Iphone... I don't think Hollywood will be calling anytime soon.

Used the finishline gun with 1.3 tip I got from Len.



Rod and Custom MII Suspension:

[turbocobra]

A couple of updates. Painted a test panel, and got the suspension installed.

Working building motor mounts, and making the Toyota 2JZ Fit.

[turbocobra]

Here is a video of us spraying a test panel on an extra door skin that we didn't use.

Feel free to critique my technique or anything else. Will be ordering a good gun from Len soon and painting the whole car.

Both the top charcoal and candy have metallic bases, and noticed some striping. Seems as if I need to spray 3 coats of metallic base, and alternating the pattern for each coat. 1 Horizontal, and a couple of alternating diagonal spray patterns. Thougths?

http://www.youtube.com/user/turbocob...11/XKZMyr6Dg5Q

http://www.youtube.com/user/turbocob...11/XKZMyr6Dg5Q

[Len]

It looks like you're doing good. Be sure that you use the correct inlet pressure at the gun, it sounded like the pressure was too high but that could be just the way it sounded online.

Remember that the base and candy coats don't need to be real smooth because you'll be applying clear on top and spraying the metallic too wet can cause stripes especially with inexpensive paint products.

I wouldn't sand the filler primer with 80 grit, reserve the 80 for body filler and sand your first coat of primer with 120 to 180 before applying your second coat. Coarse scratches can come back to haunt you later even when you apply the same material on top of them. We usually wet sand our first coat with 220 or 320 before applying a second coat then wet sand the second coat with 400 or 600 before painting.

[turbocobra]

Thanks Len. That is the finishline gun. Had the 1.3 tip at 27 or 28 psi inlet.

Yes, I mispoke on that. We have been sanding the 2K primer with 180, and plan to do our final sanding with 400 wet, then finish with 600 wet.

Good point on the base coat, I am always afraid of dry spray, so probably tend to go a little to wet, so will go a little dryer with it and see if that helps the stripes.

Do you think doing 3 coats of metallic base going ----- with the first coat, then / with the second and \ with the third?

[Len]

Do you think doing 3 coats of metallic base going ----- with the first coat, then / with the second and \ with the third?

If you don't spray it too wet it shouldn't make a difference however inexpensive paint can be difficult to control and you can cause mottling very easily. Back off and don't spray it wet and you should be ok. You might want to try that test panel again to see the result using a different method of spraying.

I have to give you a lot of credit, your son is learning how to do things properly.

[turbocobra]

Thanks, will do that. Hopefully this paint job will last 5-10 years, and after he gets out of HS and College, and maybe a different daily driver and do a very nice paint job.

Good suggestions on respraying the test panel.

One thing I had to get used to is how much more quickly the gun flows with bc/cc compared to primer, as so far I had only been spraying primer. That video was the first BC/CC I had sprayed.

Yes, I am trying to expose him to the right and wrong way of doing things. Alot of credit is owed to this site, never would have been able to do all of this without it! So thanks Len for all the support and guidance!