1965 Mustang Coupe - Father and Son Build

[Len]

Beautiful job! I can't wait to see it with the second color.

[65bcstang]

Hey turbocobra,

I've been looking at your progress both here and on youtube where I actually found you first and man nice job, seriously.
I wanted to ask a few things though...
I noticed the welder you were using but not sure if it's just for a standard outlet or is it 220v? If it's for a standard outlet then Im curious to know how you welded the engine cradle to the frame for the Mustang II suspension?
Were you able to achieve good penetration with it or what was your technique?

I ask because I'm looking into something similar and want to buy a Hobart or Matco welder which can get as good as 1/4" penetration I believe but not sure if that's good enough.

Also, where did you buy your Mustang II suspension kit from? Not sure if you mentioned it already but I was curious to know. I found one on ebay for $1,560 which includes everything but the sway bar. Not sure to trust the quality or not having a sway bar but all in all it looks exactly like the one you installed for the most part. Here's a link...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1968-Fo...356947#vi-desc

Thanks.

[turbocobra]

Hey turbocobra,

I've been looking at your progress both here and on youtube where I actually found you first and man nice job, seriously.
I wanted to ask a few things though...
I noticed the welder you were using but not sure if it's just for a standard outlet or is it 220v? If it's for a standard outlet then Im curious to know how you welded the engine cradle to the frame for the Mustang II suspension?
Were you able to achieve good penetration with it or what was your technique?

I ask because I'm looking into something similar and want to buy a Hobart or Matco welder which can get as good as 1/4" penetration I believe but not sure if that's good enough.

Also, where did you buy your Mustang II suspension kit from? Not sure if you mentioned it already but I was curious to know. I found one on ebay for $1,560 which includes everything but the sway bar. Not sure to trust the quality or not having a sway bar but all in all it looks exactly like the one you installed for the most part. Here's a link...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1968-Fo...356947#vi-desc

Thanks.

Thanks man!

Not sure if you have looked at my channel at some of the older videos, but yes, we only have a lincoln 110 welder. We did all the mock up and tacked all the suspension in with the 110. We took the car to a Friends Chassis shop who has a big welder to burn in all the welds. Don't think you could get the 110 hot enough to get good penetration on all the suspension components. Just not worth the risk.

We are using the Rod and Custom IFS and rear 4 link setup. Really great people and great products.

That is a very good price on the ebay one, but I am not familiar with it.

Hope that helps!

Gary

[turbocobra]

We sprayed the top coat (single stage urethane) and had some issues with the gun setup and air pressure, and put alot of stripes in it, so now we get to wet sand it and spray it again.

[Len]

We sprayed the top coat (single stage urethane) and had some issues with the gun setup and air pressure, and put alot of stripes in it, so now we get to wet sand it and spray it again.

The inlet pressure can change if you put the regulator on a different gun because a different gun can use a different amount of air. If the gun uses more air the pressure will tend to drop, less air and the pressure will tend to be higher. You'll need to readjust the regulator for each gun.

Don't use single stage metallic, it's very difficult to spray without getting stripes. Use base/clear.

[Wydir]

It may just be me but when you sprayed the flat color you are not overlapping enough. Your passes very greatly from one pass to another. I over lap 75% when I paint (also I don't spray much single stage met jobs).
the gun may need to be disassembled and given a good cleaning you may have some hidden gunk in it by the way its spraying also(not giving you a full pattern). lastly by the sound (I know right, the sound he says) but it would seem the pressure is a bit to high for the gun. some times we just adjust the gun to make it do what we want and don't rely on what the gauge says. and learn to finesse the gun a bit more you kind of point and shoot a lot.


Ok ok I'm done. Looks great gentlemen the family will have many stories to share because of this car now and in the future. Great accomplishment!

Ok one more thing you may want to practice on something else with the flat color before the car ( I'm just trying to save you some more sanding). Single stage met colors are hard for professional painters let alone a newbie in a garage. (no that's not an insult I'm just saying it's going to be hard)

[kcode]

I find that when I shoot matallics, that I need to really watch the distance on my gun to make sure I don't get striping. I agree with always shooting on some paper to figure out the best distance and over lapping for the paint, no matter what I am shooting.

I use one gun for all my paint and clear, but I'm too cheap to buy more guns. I just adjust the pressure on each material. I use another gun for primers though.

Looking good, I'm sure it will turn out great.

[turbocobra]

It may just be me but when you sprayed the flat color you are not overlapping enough. Your passes very greatly from one pass to another. I over lap 75% when I paint (also I don't spray much single stage met jobs).
the gun may need to be disassembled and given a good cleaning you may have some hidden gunk in it by the way its spraying also(not giving you a full pattern). lastly by the sound (I know right, the sound he says) but it would seem the pressure is a bit to high for the gun. some times we just adjust the gun to make it do what we want and don't rely on what the gauge says. and learn to finesse the gun a bit more you kind of point and shoot a lot.


Ok ok I'm done. Looks great gentlemen the family will have many stories to share because of this car now and in the future. Great accomplishment!

Ok one more thing you may want to practice on something else with the flat color before the car ( I'm just trying to save you some more sanding). Single stage met colors are hard for professional painters let alone a newbie in a garage. (no that's not an insult I'm just saying it's going to be hard)

Hey man, apprecate the suggestions. I agree with all of what you said. I definitely struggle with maintaining consistent gun distance, speed, and overlap. I might do 2 passes with a real consistent overlap, then the next one I have a real wide overlap. Just don't have enough practice and experience yet.

I think I tight overlap like 75% is very good at helping prevent stripes, but if you do 3 passes at 75%, then do one with 90% by accident, you will get a dark stripe. So consistency is the key for me to get the hang of!

Thanks again
Gary

[Wydir]

I think your doing a great job for a beginner. But I would have used basecoat and a flat clear much easier and would be hard to screw up at all. but that being said the transition from flat to gloss would be a PITA so I can see why you went with a SS.

[Jayson M]

I think you were healing the gun on the top surfaces.What this means is that you weren't holding the gun at a 90 degree angle so the bottom of you fan pattern was putting out more material than the top giving you stripes,too close to the panel will do the same thing.Single stage metallic can be tricky,when you put on your first coat you go back to where you started and increase your distance and drop coat/fog the area to even out the metallics or cross coat it.You have to be careful doing this as there is a happy medium between orange peel and even metallics.Increasing your distance with a wide fan will help.

[turbocobra]

Jayson,

I think your making a valid point. I always try to parelell the air cap, but dont' always get that done. What I did was spray that firs coat with a wide open fan, I went over to the test sheet, sprayed a pattern and noticed the gun was super heavy on both ends, and you can see that in some of the striping, that it's not just heavy on one end but both end.

So I have taken all the suggestions here, I am ditching the single stage urethane and going with bc/cc with matte'd clear.

I had a gallon of a charcoal metallic that is similar to the other color to the single stage color. Did a test panel last night.

The test panel has some dents, etc in it, so not worried about that, but was able to get the metallics laid out night.

Also was using a Sagola gun, and a different regulator as my Devilbiss digital isn't acting right.

[turbocobra]

Here is a little update, painted the wheels to match the top color.

[turbocobra]

Wet sanding and buffing.

Got 2 big runs on the fenders, but no where else... Used glazing putty to block out the runs...

Here is a long video showing what I did




Shorter video showing the finished result on a long run on the fender top...

[Henry]

It's about time you guys came back. Got used to new episodes and was wondering where and what you were up to.

Great video and thanks for actually showing the method using the filler/glaze in taking out a run. I first read that here at Len's Place a couple years ago. Nice for all to actually SEE how to do it and that it does work.

I commend you on the diligant movement with the buffer in OFF panel, ON panel. Also, glad you put out a video showing the different stages of colorsanding. To some, very boring and to many a real help in being able to SEE the operation. So you do make 'how to' videos.

I have comments but nothing adverse to your efforts. In fact, congratulations for how fantastically you've come HAVING NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE. To all NEWBIES - You Can Do It!!

Henry

[turbocobra]

Hi Henry,

Appreciate all your support and help on here.

We post alot of videos youtube, but I don't always link them on here, don't want to bore you guys, lol.

Wet sanding and buffing is alot bigger job than I though it would be for sure!

Thanks for always watching and commenting!

Thanks
Gary