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Thread: Spraying zero rust

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    16

    Default Spraying zero rust

    What type of gun would be good to spray zero rust?
    I am looking at an inexpensive HVLP with 1.4mm nozzle to do the job instead of using spray cans or brushing/rolling. It looks similar to the Dura-Block Primer Gun on Special in the store.
    Thanks Mark

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    23,703

    Default That will do it.

    I use anything from a 1.3 to a 1.6 tip for spraying Zero Rust. You need to reduce it a little to get it to spray properly.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    295

    Default

    A 1.4 will work but a 1.7 would probably be better. Thin to suit & fight the desire to hose on too much at a time. ZR hangs so well, it's really easy to go for the "if a little's good, a lot ought to be better" routine.
    Bruce Palmer
    Zero Rust

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Moochville
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    23,800

    Default

    My favorite gun for spraying ZERO RUST is the Astro EVO LVLP gun with the 1.4 tip . Len sells it at a good price. Mooch

  5. #5

    Default

    I have a question, which you think is better por15 or zero rust? and what to you use to thin zero rust so it can be sprayed, and last question how much do I need to do a pickup frame?

  6. #6
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    Dec 2005
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    Moochville
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    Default

    I usually thin with Acetone at 10 percent and sometimes a little more. I always shoot thin coats and allow plenty of time between coats. I sprayed 5 coats on my frame .Which was a 48 Ford pick up with a Volare front suspension. If I remember right not quite 2 quarts .

    As far a Por 15 and Zero rust both work but I prefer the look of Zero Rust and it isn't as prone to chip. I must add I let my final coat gas off for 30 days.

    Another reason I like Zero rust is if you happen to scratch it which I have several times repairs are a snap and blend in nice. Mooch

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    295

    Default

    I'll leave the answer to the first question to others.

    For the frame I'd get a quart of red oxide and a quart of black and do the 2 coat 2 color routine. medium coat of the first color cover it with the second color and quit. This gives you an easy visual barometer to tell where you've been, helps preclude thin spots and hopefully keep you from getting it on too thick.

    For thinning, laquer thinner, acetone, Xylene, enamel reducer all work fine. Naptha and mineral spirits are too slow.
    Last edited by Bruce P; 04-21-2006 at 04:32 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Roseburg,OREGON
    Posts
    396

    Default

    I have used both and I'll never use Por again. If it shows below is a pic underneth my 65 Ranchero Painted with Zero Rust.. P32201622.jpg
    Take Care
    Earl

    MY Project
    www.ranchero65.com

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    23,703

    Default Nice job Earl

    I'll bet that took a while to clean.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    16

    Default

    I painted my frame last weekend and ran out of zero rust. Do I have to scuff what I did last week to add another coat?
    how long should I wait before putting the seam sealer and undercoat on?
    Thanks Mark

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    23,703

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bullyboy
    I painted my frame last weekend and ran out of zero rust. Do I have to scuff what I did last week to add another coat?
    how long should I wait before putting the seam sealer and undercoat on?
    Thanks Mark
    If it's been a week I'd probably scuff it before applying more ZR. The length of time before the application of seam sealer or undercoat over the ZR will depend on how the ZR was applied and the weather during the cure cycle. If the temperature has been constantly over 70 degrees F and the application was not heavy I'd say you could probably apply those materials the next day. If the temperature was cool and the application heavy I'd wait at least a week.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Thanks Len
    I'll probably wait a week just to be sure.
    Now I get to go scuffin'
    Later
    Mark

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