clarify flash.

[MikeP]

Been following the posts from the recent "flash" thread. The base coat is simple, wait for it to dull. But when I painted my olds, I let the clear solidify, but recoated while still tacky. I'm pretty sure I read that here. I could leave a fingerprint in the clear, it was sticky, but didn't transfer any clear to my finger (tested in the masking paper, of course) There has been talk of waiting until it is dry to the touch? Which is correct? Mike

[88GT]

I wait until it prints easily and feels tacky but wont string when you lift your finger off of where you touch it. To me, dry to the touch is too long to wait. You can recoat it anytime during the curing process (with most clears) but you lose flow

[Harry Phinney]

I use precisely the same approach - waiting until the first coat is tacky but no longer strings. If you wait too long you can cause lifting or wrinkling of the first coat.

Harry Phinney

[fixdent]

I guess "dry to touch" is a broad definition.

I wait 7 to 10 minutes....I set my timex watch....as 7 minutes seems like a lifetime when waiting.

I touch the masking paper or a masked door handle just to make sure it isn't sticky.....

--
Gordon

[88GT]

I guess "dry to touch" is a broad definition.

I wait 7 to 10 minutes....I set my timex watch....as 7 minutes seems like a lifetime when waiting.

I touch the masking paper or a masked door handle just to make sure it isn't sticky.....

--
Gordon

I remove door handles :rolleyes: LOL
I cant go by time really, only as an aproximation. Depending on the temp, weather I used a slow activator and a slow reducer, or a slow activator but a mid temp reducer, or a mid temp activator and a slow reducer, or a mid temp activator AND reducer, the time can change slightly to drastically. If Im doing a test panel at the same time I can check that instead of the car

[Len]

I remove door handles :rolleyes: LOL
I cant go by time really, only as an aproximation. Depending on the temp, weather I used a slow activator and a slow reducer, or a slow activator but a mid temp reducer, or a mid temp activator and a slow reducer, or a mid temp activator AND reducer, the time can change slightly to drastically. If Im doing a test panel at the same time I can check that instead of the car

Most times the paint on masking paper or tape tends to feel more dry than paint on the metal surface. Try touching the surface where you removed a molding or door handle, it will give you a more accurate indication of flashing on your top coat. You are better off allowing a little too much dry time than too little, remember that the first coat is your TACK COAT and if you apply your second coat too soon it will all become one coat of paint and have a much better chance of sliding into a run.

[roozterdvx]

I use precisely the same approach - waiting until the first coat is tacky but no longer strings. If you wait too long you can cause lifting or wrinkling of the first coat.

Harry Phinney

been there, done that...booth temp and airflow over the surfaces can shorten flash times...found out the hard way.
Since then, I don't just set my timer according to the tech sheet, I touch the masking in multiple locations to check how tacky or stringy.

[coostv]

I use essentially the same method as the others, print but no string. Has worked well for me too.

Chris