Been following the posts from the recent "flash" thread. The base coat is simple, wait for it to dull. But when I painted my olds, I let the clear solidify, but recoated while still tacky. I'm pretty sure I read that here. I could leave a fingerprint in the clear, it was sticky, but didn't transfer any clear to my finger (tested in the masking paper, of course) There has been talk of waiting until it is dry to the touch? Which is correct? Mike
I wait until it prints easily and feels tacky but wont string when you lift your finger off of where you touch it. To me, dry to the touch is too long to wait. You can recoat it anytime during the curing process (with most clears) but you lose flow
I use precisely the same approach - waiting until the first coat is tacky but no longer strings. If you wait too long you can cause lifting or wrinkling of the first coat.
I use essentially the same method as the others, print but no string. Has worked well for me too.
I guess "dry to touch" is a broad definition.
I wait 7 to 10 minutes....I set my timex watch....as 7 minutes seems like a lifetime when waiting.
I touch the masking paper or a masked door handle just to make sure it isn't sticky.....
I remove door handles :rolleyes: LOL
Originally Posted by fixdent
I cant go by time really, only as an aproximation. Depending on the temp, weather I used a slow activator and a slow reducer, or a slow activator but a mid temp reducer, or a mid temp activator and a slow reducer, or a mid temp activator AND reducer, the time can change slightly to drastically. If Im doing a test panel at the same time I can check that instead of the car
Most times the paint on masking paper or tape tends to feel more dry than paint on the metal surface. Try touching the surface where you removed a molding or door handle, it will give you a more accurate indication of flashing on your top coat. You are better off allowing a little too much dry time than too little, remember that the first coat is your TACK COAT and if you apply your second coat too soon it will all become one coat of paint and have a much better chance of sliding into a run.
Originally Posted by 88GT
Thanks guys, I was on the correct path here. This is what I did when I painted my Olds.
That first coat of clear, the "tack" coat - should that be any more or less heavy (smooth after flow) than the remaining coats?
I'm probably just getting "pre paint jitters" here, but I've spent a lot of time on this project, and it comes to a head tomorrow.. Mike
My 1st coat never flows out as well as my 2nd or third. I dont worry too much how my 1st coat flows as long as I didnt miss anything. Dont try for glass on your first coat. Try for good even gloss. watch as it goes on, and as soon as it looks like it goes on glossy, thats it. Keep making that glossy spot grow till the whole car shines. The next coats will flow better with no additional effort
Originally Posted by MikeP
Originally Posted by Harry Phinney
been there, done that...booth temp and airflow over the surfaces can shorten flash times...found out the hard way.
Since then, I don't just set my timer according to the tech sheet, I touch the masking in multiple locations to check how tacky or stringy.
I agree with 88GT you can't worry too much about making the first coat level. If you apply enough to get it flat there's a good chance it's going to run. Just try to get even coverage, let it flash then apply your second and third coats. If you allow enough time for the first coat to dry you should be able to apply your second and third fairly quickly. If you plan on sanding and polishing then DON'T try to get it perfectly smooth because it's very tricky for a novice to attain perfection without causing runs and runs are much more difficult to fix. Having some orange peel is a lot easier to fix.
Originally Posted by MikeP