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Thread: ? About Acrylic Enamel Paint

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    5

    Default ? About Acrylic Enamel Paint

    I painted a car frame over the weekend with Acrylic Enamel and ended up with a couple runs...can I wet sand them out and buff the shine back or will it need to be resprayed after sanding?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    lower Michigan
    Posts
    8,411

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1hotrod
    I painted a car frame over the weekend with Acrylic Enamel and ended up with a couple runs...can I wet sand them out and buff the shine back or will it need to be resprayed after sanding?
    The answer to your question is it depends on whether you added a hardener to the acrylic enamel. If you did add a hardener then wait several days then wetsand and buff. You should be good to go as long as you don't cut through the paint down to the primer.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    4

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    I painted my '47 Chrysler about 1.5 weeks ago with acrylic enamel and hardener. I waited a week to fix the runs with a Nib file, 600 grit wet/dry, 1200 grit wet/dry and then polish. After doing this I can see the spot(s). I didn't polish with a polisher just rubbed by hand. The result I got is not acceptable. My understanding after reading (a little more carefully) my "How to paint your car" book is that the acrylic enamel dries with a film and once this film is disturbed you can't polish it. I'd like to fix the runs and make it unoticable without "spot" painting the areas and if I can "polish" out these areas that would be great.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    2

    Default My runs bigger than yours

    After reading so much valuable info from this forum, I stepped up to the plate, and shot paint at intended target. I have managed to produce every mistake possible for my first spray job. I cant blame the substrate because I did it my self and it was 9.99/10.
    Will post pic as soon as it stops sagging. In the mean time, Thank You Gents
    ....
    Now let's see who can fix the worst of the worst!

    Mitch

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    2

    Default Every mistake but fish-eyes

    The only mistake I didn't make was in the prep...
    No Fishes.
    Did I tell you about
    "WHY YOU CLEAN YOUR GUN AFTER EVERY SPAY"
    :mad:

    My Good Friends said " Attempt to sand & buff, If it won't come out......
    You've prepped for a re-spay...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    127

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gbkjr
    I painted my '47 Chrysler about 1.5 weeks ago with acrylic enamel and hardener. I waited a week to fix the runs with a Nib file, 600 grit wet/dry, 1200 grit wet/dry and then polish. After doing this I can see the spot(s). I didn't polish with a polisher just rubbed by hand. The result I got is not acceptable. My understanding after reading (a little more carefully) my "How to paint your car" book is that the acrylic enamel dries with a film and once this film is disturbed you can't polish it. I'd like to fix the runs and make it unoticable without "spot" painting the areas and if I can "polish" out these areas that would be great.

    You should be able to sand out the runs and polish just like urethane since you used a hardner. There is no mysterious film. Litererally thousands of cars have been painted with AE and cut and buffed. I can remember how bad the first car I painted in the early 80's looked and how amazing it looked after sanding and buffing the Centauri AE. Of course I'm assuming you have a solid color, if it's metallic you'll see the run.

    Larry

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Larry - Thanks for the reply. Yes, it is a solid color (St Clair Blue). I've been reading info on "buffing" technique and it looks like I need to get a good buffer, good polishing/compounding material and some pads.

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