Buffer

[kwik69]

I'm looking for a buffer to satisfy my hobbyist tendancies.
I've found some good write up tips here and I was wondering if you could recommend the right tool for the job.

Currently I have a black car with a lot of surface marks in the cc and I'de like to try and clean it up. I'm told they should buff out.

I also have a project car that is almost ready for primer, so a buffer should be in my future plans more than once.

[Len]

I've had several sander/polishers and I haven't found one as good as the latest model Makita. It's light and very controlable with two methods of regulating the speed as well as automatic speed control. With all of the features, plus the Makita promotion now going, it's very reasonably priced. Check it out on the link below.

We pretty much use our Makita daily for either stripping a car or for polishing paint. We've been using the same machine for about two years and it's still smooth, quiet and trouble free.

Makita Link

[kwik69]

Thanks, I'll include one in my next order!

[Yucholian]

Hey Len, do you use the Makita for grinding down welds as well?

[Len]

No, the only jobs I use my Makita for is to remove paint or to polish paint. I grind welds using my CP angle grinder with Norton Speed-Lock disks. This little tool works great and is very reasonably priced for the amount of work it does. We rarely use a big grinder these days.

Grinder Link

[Yucholian]

Thanks Len, the reason why I ask is I have bought boxes of 3M disk for my die grinder from you few years ago and that didn't work very well, didn't last long either. Is Norton better than the 3M?

[Len]

3M makes a lot of different disks, which ones did you buy? Some Norton products are better than 3M and that's why I use the type of grinding disk shown in the above post but it's mostly because of the Roloc design of the 3M. I've had problems with Roloc so I usually try to avoid it when possible.

[Yucholian]

I got 3M GreenCorp, 01408, 24 grit, 3 inch Roloc. Thanks

[Yucholian]

Well, Len, can you comment on the model I am using? Thanks in advance.

[Len]

I don't remember the 3M disks being that much different than the Norton except that the plastic mounting screw would break once in a while causing the disk to fly across the room and then I would need to dig the broken stud out of the backing plate.

What did you find that they didn't do well? I think these 3" grinding disks are the way to go. I used a large grinder for years but about 5 or 6 years ago we started using this smaller tool and now we rarely pick up the big electric grinder.

[TimG]

I use 3M roloc discs at work,not sure of the number.
2 things I noticed are if the backing pad for the disc is worn,and not the same size as the the disc,they don't last for squat.
Another thing,I prefer the 36 grit, the smaller abrasive seems to stick to the disc better.
Just my 2 cents worth .

[Phil V]

I have and use the angle head die grinders with roloc discs mainly for sanding/grinding out paint in spots where the 5" grinder can't get to. But I rarely use it for grinding welds flat. For grinding welds flat I use a 3 1/2" angle head air grinder that uses a grinding stone. (like the smaller Makita type electric angle head grinder, only an air tool instead of electric). The reason I use that mid size angle head grinder is that the grinding stones outlast the expensive roloc discs many times over. Another use that the mid size air angle head grinder is great for is with the larger ( 5") cut off discs/wheels. Used mainly for cutting sheet metal panels etc.

[Yucholian]

With the 3" 3M, I felt the discs wore out really fast. Also, the backing disc is so flexible, I couldn't apply enough pressure to really grind things down. Maybe Norton backing discs are a bit firmer. It just took forever to grind welds, and went through a lot of discs.

[TimG]

On welds,I use a grinding wheel made by 3M that fits in a cutoff tool,same diameter as a whizzer wheel,only about a 1/4" thick.
I use that to grind just the weld 'till its close,then hit it w/ the roloc.

[wolfsautobody]

I'm looking for a buffer to satisfy my hobbyist tendancies.
I've found some good write up tips here and I was wondering if you could recommend the right tool for the job.

Currently I have a black car with a lot of surface marks in the cc and I'de like to try and clean it up. I'm told they should buff out.

I also have a project car that is almost ready for primer, so a buffer should be in my future plans more than once.

kwik69,
If you don't feel like paying an alot for a buffer you can try Harbor Freight. They have a few buffers made by Chicago Electric that work well. I have one that I bought for like $29.99 on sale. I used it today to buff a black truck that I painted last night and it buffed out really good. You can adjust the speed from 1000-6000 rpm. They also have one with a led adjustment for the rpm's. The one I have starts off at a steady pace and then goes to the rpm you have it set on. It doesn't automatically take off at 6000 rpm's. It comes with 2 backing pads and I think 1 bonnet. I bought a foam pad for it and it works well. I just looked at HF's site and they have this one on sale ITEM 92623-1VGA for $29.99. I think it is the same one I bought but it comes with a little more than mine came with. But it is only 300-3000 rpm. If you do go to www.harborfreight.com go to the search window and put in polisher or sander, nothing will come up when you put in buffer.

Ben