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First thing I do is I CLEAN the Engine... I was it with Dawn Dish Detergent, Greased Lightning, and I clean it a good 3-4 times... If its a little rusty, I wire brush it, then apply Ospho, let it dry...

You could Spray over it, but I would DA the rest with 180 grit, then hit it again with 320 and Spray with a good Epoxy Primer, scuff that and apply your 2K Primer Surfacer if needed

I have sprayed over sanded MP-170 many times with no problems... Most of the time I use MP-170/MP-175/MR Reducer or Acetone as a Sealer and its worked excellent and have had no problems, but I have...

We used MBC(Omni Basecoat) and some colors cover well and some dont... Also some werent a really good match while some were so close only a Painter could tell... Their Clear Coat (MC-161) is...

I had one issue where I sprayed MH-282 over the MP-170 and had it wrinkle on me causing me to redo the entire door... Now I spray my Epoxy, let it dry 24 hours, Scuff the Epoxy, then spray my MH-282...

Is this a Solid Color or Metallic/Pearl... If its a Solid Color I would use Single Stage like you said as it has great Gloss and Depth compared to some BC/CC... If its Metallic/Pearl, I would do...

All Metal Aluminum Body Filler will work well for that application

We use Omni MP-170/MP-175/MR Reducer or Acetone for our Sealer and it has a recoat window of 3 days... We spray our sealer, let it flash for 30 minutes, tack rag it, then spray our Basecoat/Clearcoat...

Did you use DT Reactive Reducer?

If you sprayed the Omni MC-161, it sprays pretty much like that

I would do your filler work then sand the whole car with 320-400 grit to get all flash rust off, clean and then spray with a coat or 2 of Epoxy Primer, then after that spray your 2K Surfacer and...

The Shop Line is an improved Omni line... The Clears and Primers are supposed to be much better than Omni... I have used Shopline Epoxy Primer and Clearcoat and think they handle and spray well

I would use PPG Omni MP-170 Epoxy Primer with Eastwood or POR-15 Chassis Black... Both would make for a strong finish that will resist rust

It should be alright... The thing I dont like about Lacquer Products is that it is constantly shrinking and will never stop shrinking until its sanded off... Theres a few spots on my dads truck where...

I would do a 2-Tone... I would go with Flakes or Pearl on the top and Candy on the bottom... We did a 1993 Chevy Caprice at our shop... Two Tone with Laser Blue Metallic and White with Blue Pearlcoat...

Thanks for the help!

Looks brand new! I have a 1986 John Deere 900 HC Utility Tractor I am going to restore here soon

I was just curious... We are lucky enough to have a Platinum PPG Distributor in our town and I was just wondering if Online was Cheaper... If I opened an account and bought in bulk, would that help...

Where do you guys shop for Paint/Supplies online and do you get good results/satisfaction or should I stick with local mom and pops Distributors? Thanks guys

Like CD said, Epoxy Primer is the way to go... If your on a Budget, PPG Omni MP-170/175 is an excellent Epoxy Primer for those on a Budget

1-2 Coats of Epoxy Primer should be enough... I use PPG MP-170 and they recommend 1 wet coat... Let dry 24 hours, Scuff, then apply your 2K Surfacer, or if your not applying Surfacer, Scuff, Final...

Its most likely Lacquer... Take a rag, wet with lacquer thinner and hold on the surface for a few seconds... Then wipe off, if color comes off on the rag, its a Lacquer paint... You could apply Epoxy...

You could use DPLF Epoxy thinned with Acetone or Reducer... If you want to save some money, PPG Omni MP-170/MP-175/MR Series Reducer or Acetone make a great Sealer, I have used the Thinned MP-170 for...

A fellow G-Body lover... I love Turbo Regals, GNs, and GNXs... For the nose, its not a true fiberglass, its called Sheet Molded Compound, SMC for short... I would get some SMC Filler and it would...

I would have them sand as much of it as possible to bare metal so you can start from a fresh base for the new paint to stick to... Once its in bare metal, Epoxy or Etching Primer will be sprayed to...

I have used PPGs MH-282 Catalyized 2K High Build Primer for 3 years without any problems... Goes on well and easy to sand both by dry sanding or wet sanding

At our shop we used the MP-170 over Body Filler, then 2 wet coats of MH-282... We used Thinned MP-170 as a Sealer before paint, so we didnt have any problems... but there were a few burn throughs...

I have used in on my Race Car when I was on an extreme budget and couldnt afford PPG MH-282 2K Surfacer and its still holding up, but like Brad said, its a Lacquer Product and I am not a fan of...

I recommend BC/CC Acrylic Urethane with a good Clearcoat such as PPGs Deltron DC4000 or Concepts 2021, Single Stage Urethane and Acrylic Enamel will fade quicker, but to me the hassle of buffing the...

We painted a simulated Vinyl Top on a Mercury Grand Marquis with the 3 Stage Caddilac White Diamond Pearlcoat... Came out great! We used DBC Base and Pearlcoat with Omni MC161 Clear

Thanks for the tips Len... I never heard of this product before... I will have to try some :)

Kids at our shop have tried everything from Bondo to Fiberglass with screws inset to hold the kit together but nothing has seemed to stop the cracking that occurs from the vibration... Unless its a...

I agree... I use Evercoats Glazing Putties in the squeeze bottles and never have any problems :)

Yes the trailer is already painted, but the paint has tons of crows feet and bare in some spots so I'm just going to DA it with 180, then 320, then wash and Final Wash, Prime it, then paint it......

How much material did you use? If its still to much money for the Acrylic Urethane BC/CC or S/S, I could always go with Omni AE... I plan on using Omni MP-170 as the primer/sealer

I am going to paint my sisters 24' Airstream lookalike travel trailer next month... She wants it a Silver similar to the Airstream color, but I am debating on whether to use PPG Omni Single Stage or...

Well PPG has renamed their Omni line of paints as the Shop Line... Our PPG Rep. said the Primers, especially the Epoxy and 2K Primer Surfacers are supposed to be much better than previously and the...

Agreed... I would resand the metal with 320-400 grit, then just final wash it (I use PPG Omni MX-190) and then spray your DPLF90 Epoxy Primer... I have used that Primer many times and its great stuff

Thats a great steal Phil... All I have is an Arc Welder, I'm looking to get a Miller MIG Welder soon tho and plan on .023 wire with Argon gas

I would recommend stripping it to bare metal, the Factory Paint + 1 Repaint equals about 12 mils paint thickness, any thicker than that, you risk cracking, so I would strip the paint off as much as I...

I have did it that way once and it worked, but that was because I was out of reducer... I would recommend Omni MR Reducer, incase you have any problems, you could contact PPG and they would consider...

I use tape to outline the door jambs and then a piece of 6 Inch Masking Paper over the tape and it covers the doorjambs pretty good

When we painted a Trailer with Omni MTK Single Stage, it was mixed at 4:1:1 and it took us 3 quarts with 2 wet coats, a Mustang isnt really that big then say a Caddy or Big Buick, but you have...

SSweet cars, I'm currently building my 1987 Monte Carlo SS to be a 10.5 Inch DOT Tire Class car, I'm planning on 11s but we'll see how things pan out

Well for removing paint DA Grit with 80 grit or Abrasive/Media Blasting is what I use... Primer for filling scratches, I use PPG MH-282 with MH-283 Hardener, I use PPG Omni MP-170 for bare metal......

We use Hystick Automotive Tapes and so far they have worked good

Yes, we use MX190 for a final wash and have had zero issues with it, it works excellent... We also use it when we scuff the door jambs if they are getting painted, we dry scuff them, then wetscuff...

I have used Evercoats Metalglaze 2-Part since I started and like it alot... Spreads very smooth and sands easy

I have used PPG Omni MP-170 Epoxy Primer over Lead Seams where the Quarter Panel meets the roof because I ground out the factory seam sealer and used Body Filler and sprayed Epoxy over the whole area...

I like the thought, and the price :D Thanks for the tip!