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Summit Racing paint may be the same as Kirker therefore the 'base' could actually be single-stage. That would make it even more dangerous...

I would be very careful (quite using it) as on the SPI website, they have noted many problems with using lacquer-thinner to pre-clearn and I believe acetone is even hotter...

Something about it...

Wow, I thought the best was to do your sanding (P500 or whatever) after about 24 hours then let it sit for your 6 more days. This might allow more solvent to escape the film prior to the flow...

Too nice to drive, better send it to me !

Wow, great job !

another thing is that each manufacturer has a DIFFERENT percentage it used to call it's clear high-solids. For instance SPI has their Universal Clear and I believe it's not called high-solids, but...

any updates on this georgous car ? Still have it ??

I know that Filler can go on bare metal with Epoxy Primer over the top in California or New Mexico or anyplace else with a nice climate, but talk to automotive restorers in Minnesota. They mostly...

Good to know about Shop Line plus, I thought it was just the new Omni and it was called Shopline.

Thanks.

Barry has a staff including a chemist and they do mix their own paint up but it's not a '1-man show' from what I understand. I've been on the SPI board and read a few things but havn't used their...

I sprayed a car in my garage using 2 box fans about 20" in parallel (taped into the doorway blowing out) and I never blew up. My compressor is in there too.

How's the booth working, it's been awhile ??

About the venting to outside, well just prep everything the night before and get up at 2:30 am and start spraying. I doubt they'll smell a thing...

old thread...

Did it work for you ???

dang, lacquer is pretty soft. I've been able to wet-sand fresh lacquer before with 1500-grit & polish with a diaper and some Compound (Menzerna Intensive). It shines like it's show ready just by...

I've seen this done to the bed wood on one of those '67 - '72 Chevy trucks. Automotive clear in that case was an excellent choice it looked great...

on black I would think that a black epoxy as a sealer would make coverage way easier... Sort of like the 'tinted' primer idea which is a good one too...

Well, they make it confusing by labeling so many 2k primers as a 'sealer' 'just add 10% reducer'. It makes a noob like me think that since he already has 2k on it, it's the same durned thing ? ...

as far as UV protection, why not wait for it to cure a little and then clear it. My SPI clear says in the tech sheets it can be used over properly catalyzed and cured AE... You'd just be using it...

I had bird crap 'eat into' some cheap clearcoat that was cured b4.. I'm thinking I'd guide-coat and re-sand that particular spot in case the bird crap ate 'pits' in the primer... Shouldn't have to...

I'm not that experienced really, but here goes. They must have primed the filler (bondo) that was roughed-in only or something (80 grit?) Normally, guys will smooth filler to say 180 or 220 grit,...

Also where do you live ? Minnesota, then use epoxy for sure !! California or Arizona ? How about using Clausen Z-Chrome Rust Defender primer... Its a direct-to-metal polyester primer that's great...

haha. Here I thought it was 'camelion' tape that turns whatever color it's placed on. Good for rust repairs for sure !! LOL.

polyester filler (like Metal Glaze) is what I use too. It gets hard to sand sometimes, you might try sanding it when its 75% cured like you do bondo...

I like the idea of doing it dry because it gives me a chance to use a guide-coat to make sure the surface is a flat as I think it is. I like the 3M dry guide coat and going over the whole car with a...

The plasticote I've seen is lacquer and comes in a rattle-can...

no kidding, that tire was probably down past the steel belts ! :goof:

If it was the old-fashioned lacquer-primer on the bare metal I'd say remove it, but Urethane is a good choice to go over bare metal.

It will need cleaned (wash with soap & water, then when dry use...

100% overlap !! Wow, sounds like I'd get a run for sure ! I've heard of 50 & 75, but 100 ?!

Just messing with ya ! I started picturing a guy painting 1 pass and going back and forth without...

Waterborne base isn't even that big of a problem for the hobbyist as I see it if you have some time. It's the primer and the clear. High-Solids clear shouldn't be an issue, it's the booth. So let...

I think there's iso's that show up, but in way too small amounts for me to care... I don't wear gloves wet-sanding...

I love my Hobbyair from Len. I've only used it 2 or 3 times though...

I guess it would depend on the level of Isocyanate you wanted to expose yourself to... Everyone has a different standard they're shooting for.

If you are already sensitive to it, then protect...

it also helps to 'anchor' down any sand left over from the block-casting process. Nobody wants sand going through their oil-pump or worse their bearings...

best of luck and beautiful job. That clear really shines !

Still unsubstantiated, but I guess the primer-batch affected others as well. A guy who does restorations had two of them bubble from this same 'primer'. Just to be safe I imagine you guys are going...

yes, I plan to go talk with him soon. She told me that PPG is going to stand behind it. But I assume that's just cost of new materials or cost of original materials... The labor to re-strip and...

This isn't meant to start an argument. But an acquaintance of mine is a bodyshop professional who restored a '67 Mustang or some such year and the paint just bubbled on him it's about 2-months old....

I just polished a car and I used the following

1500 - cheapo brand wet
2000 - mirka wet
3000 - 3m finish-film on airvantage(wet)

I have scratches presumably from the 1500. So I'm going back...

That clogging up and then spraying dry happened to me with basecoat last July when I had a faster-reducer. Guess it was drying leaving the gun or something... It was really ticking me off !!

water-based paint is totally harmless. But if you use the whole 'system' I'm not aware of any good clearcoat that is water-based. So you must use the Solvent-based Clears. They are not-harmless to...

I'm no expert, but in the jambs you should be okay the lacquer is cured. Remember, back in the day enamel always went over the top of lacquer (lacquer primer) and it was fine, except for the...

Good to have you here. Hopefully those of us with a 'little' experience can learn from you as well.

My compressor is hooked to a dryer or oven plug installed by myself...

no, its 208v or essentially 220V. Just like your dryer. You'll need a 220V outlet in your garage. I did mine myself, but I'm trained. An electrician should really do it, and it could cost you...

That green looks great in my opinion. I'll keep my eye on Valspar...

for indoor use, acrylic lacquer seems to stay crystal clear at least 5-years because my derby car looks like new and it's 5 years old. Did it in lacquer (duplicolor) from wal-mart color and clear...

lacquer-primer just doesn't cut it. Air (with moisture) and water can go right through it. If it's going to last, the bare metal needs epoxy first, then fillers and other primers (polyester or...

I've always read not to sand and buff a SS metallic because you can easily git to the metallic particles and they will end up shiny or whatever.

How come with old-faded lacquer from 60's cars this...

Some people put on SS until there is coverage and then a 50/50 mix of the rest of their SS and some activated clear. Don't know why they do this...

In my mind the best 'seal' against the dreaded moisture from the road and also the air (which contains moisture and salt) is epoxy-primer. Once that's on then you have to color it with anything your...

You take Karo Corn Syrup, heat it up to about 250 F, then cool. This is good clear I swear. To activate, use lemon-juice and mix 6:1... For Kandy jobs, put in food-coloring or koolaid powder of...

I did my kids derby car in lacquer-metallic (well mine actually, his is a solid red) in base and clear lacquer. It looks identical to a modern base/clear to me... The paint was the dupli-color from...