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I've been restoring old cars and trucks for 54 years and I've never gotten that deep into the wiring. I applaud your work. :clap:

I'll email you a tracking number when I get it from the warehouse.

Picklex and Zero Rust do two different things.... Picklex is used after the loose rust is removed to convert and stabilize the surface then it's allowed to dry then scuffed and the Zero Rust is...

My guess is that it would cost about $80 to $100 to ship but I can give you a more accurate price on Monday if you email your address to me. You can send your address to sales@autobodystore.com and...

Yes, that's a good idea that would work if you're going to leave the vehicle in one position for a while but, most of the time, I put it up and down as I work.

You can leave 2K primers unprotected but it can depend on what's under them and what 2K primer you're using. Some 2Ks like Optex are a good barrier to moisture while others can be more porous and...

That looks like you're almost there. I'd sand the filler and everything else with 320 or 400 or 600 then epoxy prime and filler prime then guide coat and sand again with the 400 or 600.

What...

As long as you have a base of epoxy primer you probably don't need to worry about rust. However if you want a filler primer that can also protect the surface you can use Optex which can also be...

First the gun.... For your application I think the DeVilbiss Finishline that comes with a couple of different size fluid tips. I'd also recommend using the DeVilbiss DeKup system to make handling...

That's right, I drive onto those 1 1/2" thick boards for my low riders. I purchased 4 of the 8' boards to drive up on then cut two of them down to 6' because I didn't need the 16' length. Once I...

OK, I put the banner link back at the top of the page.

A couple years ago I purchased a scissor lift that has worked out great. It lifts to about 5' and can handle up to 6000lbs. The one snag I hit was that the lift is about 6" high when down and the...

After the Rustmort, or most other rust converters, you can use a primer that doesn't contain acid. Sometimes it can take a little research but it can save a paint peeling disaster down the road.

One thing I should add is when painting the interior with the doors removed you can shoot the jambs with the exterior and eliminate the need for using the Smooth Transition Tape and just mask on the...

If the interior already has paint on it then just scuff it with some 400 or 600 grit or even a scuff pad then paint it. However if you have bare metal then apply epoxy primer, wait until it flashes...

Epoxy primer first is a good idea if your putting on other primers that are not meant to go direct to metal. I would recommend finishing the body filler with 180 because the 80 grit is a little too...

I talked to Coatings today and was told that they changed their site and that could have caused the problem. The boss is supposed to call me tomorrow so we'll see if we can fix the problem.

I had several links to them and they all stopped working so I called them and nobody answered so called again and nobody answered so I removed their links. I guess they are out of business.

Did you put a heat lamp on it?
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Yes that sounds about right but the 55 Line covers very well and you may need to over-reduce it more for a second blend coat extension.

When I blend 55 line I normally sand beyond the area to be cleared with 1500 or 2500 depending if the color is a metallic or not. Spray color until covered then over-reduce it and extend the area. ...

I shoot a lot of Glasurit 22 and 55 line but never did any 90 line so I can't help but I've heard good things about their waterborne products.

We don't use sheets of hook and loop paper so all of our blocks can take stick-on paper. We purchased several of a couple of them and cut one third off so that we would have a 1/3, 2/3 and a full...

For sanding blocks we mostly use Dura-Blocks linked below along with stick-on roll sandpaper. As far as what grits we keep rolls of 40, 80, 120 and 220. The blocks re inexpensive, last forever and...

The first thing you should do is to call around to several junk yards in your area to see if anyone has a used door. It would be a lot easier (and cheaper) to replace than to repair.

Sorry, I've never used 3D products but IF it's anything like Wizard's Mystic Cut the 2500 should be fine enough to buff out.

It could have been caused by handling the hood (to put it back on) then not cleaning it properly before painting.

In fact AirVantage makes the same sanders for many other companies and private labels them for those companies. Check them out on the link below.

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If the divots are coming from contaminants in the air you should be able to sand them level and respray and not generate more problems as long as you cleanup the air. However if the problem is...