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i would scuff it well, and still use the adhesion promotor. bulldog or something like that. i see little reason to apply epoxy to a new bumper, but maybe i havent had enough failures i guess. and...

i hang them and chase em as they swing. that takes some practice

try to think of everything. any desiel machines nearby, snacks, potato chips, french fries. wash yer hands well, wipe solvent on with one rag and use clean dry rags to wipe it off. are you...

just the peely spots. might try 1200 or 1500 to start. for the run, len sells a metal file that is awesome for fixing runs WITHOUT burning through. i have one with me all the time.

if youre looking at that panel and you cant tell if its metallic, then I would go ahead and sand it. you just dont want to be sanding flakes because it makes them dull if theyre scratched.

if its metallics, id say avoid it altogether. with solid colors, its much easier and looks alot better

as long as the base is sprayed to coverage, you'll never see through it. dont pile it on though, it'll lift the fresh paint.

are you pumping compressed air into your mask? did I read that right?

Now I'll disagree with that 100%. I've dealt with base lifting a hundred times in the booth and its never the case where it lifts, but you cant see it. you can see it every time. if the base looks...

in my opinion, Mr. Painter should have seen the black base lifting and fixed it before clearing. He should never let it go that far. I dont care if I was doing it for free, I would never clear over...

im thinking 5 minutes, but maybe im reading it wrong. were just talking base right?

yeah but reclearing it doesnt get a "deeper" shine. you want a smoother finish. wetsand and buff gets you there.

the fact is if you put enough base down, you wont see through it. three coats of white base is hardly enough. especially if its sprayed 1/1. the valueshade system is a great helper, but this kid...

sealer also has to be a perfect, uniform wetness or its guaranteed to run or be real dry in spots. i find it to be a problem for beginners on a first full car. finish sand with 500ish, itll...

just add hardener to the base, make sure its really clean, and itll be fine. also a nice factory match. i only clearcoat pickup trucks, cause they come factory that way.

that said, if it was...

remembering that youre on a time schedule...

i would just tear into the bubbled areas with 180. dont waste no time on this thing. thats if the rest appears to be stuck pretty well. stripping...

i agree. if you prime the whole car youll never get it done in time. prime just over the bodywork spots.

was that a fiberglass/body kit bumper per chance? or was it plastic?

the lifting was caused by soaking wet paint on the first coat of primer creeping under whatever was on there before. once sanded, apply a couple dry coats right there first before piling it on. use...

the side skirts lifted. welcome to our world. happened to me twice today. that needs to be sanded out completely and resprayed. just that crackled area.

that front bumper has me baffled. ...

those bags cameron spoke about are great for that. you can eliminate all of the air from the bag and it will spray upside down right to the last drop.

but a full paint cup and interesting...

we have something like that where I work. looks expensive.

I do the same

I have to say, I read this thread slowly and was starting to get upset. Until I read this guys post.


Remember for a full dip this is largely irrelevant, but for collision repair the base color...

p50 is a real nice build primer.

i really like the 3m swirl mark remover. with the black pad

where I work, I paint that color T8, every week. mustang, taurus and fusion. one coat covers, and one coat to even it out.

I recall a conversation with an aircraft painter concerning certain thickness specifications the paint had to be. be careful, cause those 3-stage whites can get pretty thick.

where are the lines? lotsa different tricks for different spots

no need to worry about color showing though. no color will show through 2 coats of black base.

sealer also fills scratches that base wont fill, like say 320, whereas base will fill 500.

it...

Man, for 400bux, you can paint mine! lol

i might be picky though...;)

i would say look close at the front of it to see if it took a hard fall. other than that, get it.

are we sure its not dirt? and why 3 coats?

i would do that instead. use adhesion promotor like bulldog on any bare plastic spots before they get coated and youll be fine

i agree with that

metallics dont fade well. itll look really blotchy

i think "bumper stripper" is a SEM product. we kept it right next to the "bumper coater" with identical lables.

dont ask how I know:o

looks like a candy color. pagan gold maybe?

i find that to be real easy, just yank the weatherstrip, backtape the whole thing, stick one piece of paper to the tape and trim it. now scuffing in there, thats another story:mad:

new mary kay is tricoat. the older mary kay pink might be what hes looking for.

tidbit- when GM gets mary kay cadillacs back from leases, they repaint them 100% straight white before...

I like it too. you have to figure out which piece goes where, first. Like Len said, tight and neat is best.

and if your first coat was as wet as the second, then you may not have noticed the lifting. it can start out real small. It also has to do with the fresh paint you paint over, just noticed that. ...

you piled on that second coat too wet.

contaminates wont do it. I suspect you had burn-throughs in the old paint, and the wetness of that second coat ate right in. I think its all to easy...

i love clean sheets. im not really a bodyman, so one lasts me a while.

dont get it wet though

too much base covered up too quick? real heavy coats of clear?

also, try to see if it happenes over where you based, and where you didnt. if your base goes down sorta dry and leaves "texture",...

Ooh Grasshoppa,




No, its not. But when something starts lifting, you need to be able to roll through it and continue. when fisheyes are everywhere, its a real painter who can finish the job...

i didnt read all of this, but my advise is to stay at maaco. if you leave to paint anything but cars, youll be laughed at trying to get a job ever again at a body shop. you need that prep skill. ...

that is so true. I had a boneyard next to a body shop and they would let these huge deisel rigs idle all day long. what a nightmare

i do know that if the rubber backup pad on the buffer hits the paint, it will rip it off in a second. looks like a chip too. the first time i did it, i didnt even believe it myself.
and from a...

i think this guy has a dirty paintjob and he thinks its fisheyes. if its dirt, it can be sanded and buffed. or sanded and recleared.