I had a 62 Chevy Nassau Blue that was metallic.
Type: Posts; User: Len
I had a 62 Chevy Nassau Blue that was metallic.
I've been using the Detro 1200 cloths for years and never had that problem. I'd be on the phone with the supplier.
Ron you're using Detro right? What number?
I've used both but haven't seen much difference so I carry the 1200.
Detro makes several types of tack cloths. We use mostly the Detro 1200 or 1300, they aren't wet and do a great job.
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/dtr.jpg
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Bam you should be teaching your art. I've been doing this type of work for over 50 years and rarely see anyone take a vehicle to this level.
Single stage paint can vary in flexibility, the lighter colors like white tend to be less flexible than darker colors. I'd put some flex additive in paint for anything flexible and especially if...
If I remember correctly I had to pull the axles also.
No glass packs. When I was racing I'd uncap my lakers and make some real noise with fire coming out of both sides. It had solid lifters from the factory and I always had people ask me what was...
Ahh, you young guys think you are old, I had a 62 409 w/ two quads. I'd wait until all my buddies were hanging out in front of the malt shop and I'd lightem up just to hear them cheer. :D
Yes that's the case with most unhardened base coat products but if you can sand it lightly it should allow the following coat to bond beyond the recoat window.
Glasurit sprays about the same as other brands.
Yes if the original was a solid (non-metallic) color then single stage is probably your best bet.
As far as high quality goes I use Glasurit but it is expensive. If you use a single stage Glasurit (22 Line) be sure to use their hardener and reducer and your price will probably be around $1200 to...
As long as you have enough paint on it you should be able to buff out the area where you suit hit the paint and yes you can leave some peel if you want. Looks good from here. :thumb:
https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/1a84005f-8fe2-4bd2-ab39-a0f05b574aca/svn/genuine-joe-plungers-gjo85130-64_400.jpg
The problem with just using a welder to weld something to the surface is that you could do more damage to the surface. The tool that I posted uses little pins that can be welded without using much...
If I had it here I would use a stud welder to pull that low spot up and probably tap around it to help keep it up. I would still have surface irregularities that I would level using filler.
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