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Hello,
I'm in need of some ideas on where to either purchase, or have bent up for reasonable cost (in Central NJ) some exhaust pipe lengths for a '99 Civic EX (between the resonator and muffller,...

Hello,
I'm posting this here, since there were no takers on it in the "collision" forum http://autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?23456-Repaining-crack-in-plastic-gas-tank

I figure, I can't...

Hello,
I'm looking for suggestions, on repairing a plastic fuel tank, that has about a 4 inch "C" shaped crack.

My first inclination, was to drill a small hole at either end of the crack, to...

In response to Len's inquiry on the Nano Clear I used (I think it was by Matrix, but I was able to speak w/ the chemist who made an off-branded label as well, then marketed it to them).

It was...

Hello again, and thanks for the ideas (I'm sure everything has it's place somewhere).

After considering what was available out there, and making the most out of online testimonials that were...

Hello Len,

Yup, it's the surfboard guy (thanks again for hooking me up w/ your brother's rollerskating rink in Ft. Pierce). Since my extended Florida experience, the idea of braving the elements...

Hello,
It's been some time since I've shot some paint, so I'm wondering if any users have had positive (or decidedly negative) experiences w/ the "options" available for protecting polished...

I just acquired a car, that had a carpet like dash protector, adhered by velcro pieces.

The heat over the years, has softened that adhesive backed velcro, to something just this side of liquid...

That ceramic clear is more of a struggle to polish than a conventional (non-grafitti type) clear. The key, is just much relying more on stepping through finer grits, to minimize what the compounding...

Sorry to hear it's not progressing as w/ minimal effort, but, you may just have answered your own questions about the compound (if it's not aggressive enough, it's not going to be much help in...

I'd concur that those are viable options.

But, I'm also thinking, if you know you're going to be shooting a polyester primer (e.g. sprayable body filler) anyway, than why not just shoot it over...

I think, if faced w/ the task, I like the idea of concentrating on a small area at a time, w/ a nice batch of decent filler I trust (most anything in the Evercoat line, but I'm certain plenty of...

I have some small projects that I'm working on, that are made from colored Lexan, and colored fiberglass (mostly black).

I would like to shoot these w/ pearl basecoats I'll mix up.

I'm...

I actually quite like the Blair holesaw type cutters, and actually have had pretty good sucess w/ them.

Not knowing what everyone else's approach is to using them, I can only offer mine.

I...

Why not just fill up a portable 5 gallon compressed air tank (or better yet, a compressor that's blown up and otherwise useless...or perhaps a propane tank, and yes, I've seen the odd reports of...

Len,
How long would you say to wait (if you had to guess), before redipping for successive coats?

Should I just treat it like having the same recoat window as a sprayed base...am I better off...

Hello,
I finally got some mixing clear and have a few questions before I attempt "dipping" objects. I haven't seen any particular video, so just looking for insight from anyone who's done this...

If welding in patches is not a viable option, you may have been better served by gluing in metal patches w/ structural adhesives, then finishing up the cosmetics.

The adhesives will seal the...

Also, for what it's worth...on areas that you KNOW are going to be direclty and repeatedly belted w/ impacts from stones, you don't actually wany a surface that is rock solid.

It may at first seem...

I'd vote for MIG...In terms of what's involved in the setup, and simplest enough to get a good handle on, MIG does the job required, quicker and w/ less $ outlay (basically, meaning even an...

I'm posting this inquiry on behalf of someone else...so I may still be unclear about a few parameters of the project.

Basically...is it feasible to roughen up some glass (say w/ 800 grit or so),...

I'd think that what's referred to as the gasket in this case, is what's behind the threaded in fluid tip.

Some guns have them, some don't...but if yours does, it's something that generally stays...

W/out knowing the particulars of how the gun is setup, two general areas come to mind (if you've already adressed them, then I'm not sure where to go from there).

Is the fluid needle packing...

You DEFINATELY want to have the panels oriented in the same manner they will be on the car, if you want to stand even a remote chance that they'll match (will be difficult at best for panel painting...

For your application, you might want to try Nanovere Zyvere Ceramic Clear (also marketed by Matrix as NC-01)...worth a call to see if you can get a sample at a discount (that's what I did, got 1/2...

Fusor 129...That's the ticket!

I've used, loved it...and it really is very easy to feather the edge into the surrounding area seamlessly...definately makes for a slick looking finish around...

Check to see the specs on who actually makes the PUMP unit itself (vs. any potential rebranding as the packaged complete apparatus).

I can't speak for Wilson...but my SAS systems, vane type air...

First things first, the cream hardener actually has a shelf life, whereas the polyester filler itself does not.

Cream hardener is cheap enough to replace, and even w/ a new tube, should be kneaded...

I'm w/ Dennis on this one...

...for what it's worth, I'm no chemist, but the advice I received years ago from a DuPont jobber in regards to when to sand/prep their URO urethane primer, was to sand...

Just to be certain...was material exiting the fluid tip cleanly, and the orifices of the gun itself cleaned?

I've experienced unwanted texture, when the actual fluid delivery iteself, was being...

Whatever product(s) you end up using, the tech sheet should spec the suitable substrates (and prep of them).

For Zero Rust, for it to do what it's meant to do, is best suited for use over a bare...

The 3M brushable seam sealer I've used in the past (blue labeled can), did the same thing on what I'd consider tougher, more solvent resistant bases, as well. The solvents in that sealer are...

Opinons on this recently discussed subject are in the thread below...

http://autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10085

My MIG (converted) welder, is a Shumacher (more known somewhere for their battery chargers)...but is actually Italian made by Telwin (and as I heard long ago, there were only several manufacturers...

...also meant to add, that the purpose of using a long block, and cross-hatch sanding the entire surface (for example, several strokes from upper left hand corner to lower right, progressing across...

It's not quite there yet...but getting close.

The purpose of guide-coat, is that it acts as a visual aid, to help easily accentuate those low spots (be them panel surface irregularities, sanding...

First off, you could probably find whatever filler you decide on, in quarts (though, like anything else, it's more cost-effective per unit of measure, when buying larger quantities).

You can't go...

...P.S...just because it "came" w/ something that was supplied in the group package, doesn't always translate to it being what's right/proper/necessary.

I recall a cheapo too I got (made me crack...

Are you welding WITH or WITHOUT gas?

It sounds like w/out...seeing as you mention FLUX core (w/ the option to add a tank?).

ER70S6 wire, is the sort to be used w/ gas when MIG welding.

If...

NO,
"Solvent Pop", should probably be more appropriately described as "entrapment of excessive solvents in the curing layer".

Giving it more time than the recommended minimum flash time, should...

In terms of long term storage for things, it's the hardeners that the clock starts ticking on, for partially used leftovers going bad.

For the paint/resin portion itself, that's not really...

I'm still thinking of where to go from here...

Pulling up the mat, to scuff the rubber, doesn't seem feasable at this point (as itll call for a complete redo...and getting rid of what's on there...

Thanks for the suggestions...

This is a LOW buck, LOW priority (yet still half decent) project...that's sort of why I opted out of the grip tape option (I know it stays stuck, but as I recall from...

I figured I'd post this here, rather than the general discussion, since I'm hoping someone out there has an idea on a material that's a "glue-all", including rubber.

What I'm trying to do, is glue...

There are certainly multiple ways to approach solving that problem.

A larger bolt seems simplest, but I also see no issue w/ tapping what's there and using a helicoil.

Perhaps you could use the...

No worries...

For purposes of UV protection, most poducts' tech sheets call for a minimum dry film build thickness to be left...now, w/ all the variables that come into play for spraying...

Epoxy primer followed by a urethane topcoat would be my vote (why not use what's "best", or better than than the other suggested alternatives). Epoxy will bond well and seal to the already cleaned...

For what it's worth...

I have NOT tried that product, but I did use (and liked) Standox "Rallye Black" single stage urethane (expensive though it was).

But, it seemed just about right for...

Sand it enough to get it smooth and flat...that's basically the purpose of the urethane primer.

Typical generic tech sheet specs would likely call for 3 coats of 2K w/ 50/50 overlap, a blocking w/...

I'm not all caught up on all the posts on this thread...but here's my thought.

Since a flattened black is the ultimate goal, that has to be shot last (rather than taking a chance of what scuffing...