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I'm talking underhood or interior doo-dads as mentioned that rarely see the light of day, I've always used quality paints, Valspar is good stuff, I like Zero Rust as well, and epoxies, anything with...

So .... wiper motors, radiator,power steering pumps, pulley wheels, steering knuckles and control arms, etc., etc. ... we don't use spray bombs of any kind, primer or enamels , laquers or epoxies,...

I'm understanding " dried hardness = sandability ? The Zgrip is a "middle range" filler I guess (not the least or most, expensive) just curious as I can gouge the filler with a hard scrape of my...

Just curious. I'm using Zgrip for the first time (after returning Dynatron crap) I know there are differences, but should, or do, all fillers dry rock-hard ? I've noticed I can gouge the Zgrip with...

So I migged the trim holes closed, ground them down, spread my filler , sanded , epoxied, etc. Last step is I'm going to seal the back side of the holes with Zero Rust. Does this sound good ? Asking...

Brian - I'll give it a shot, like I said, this won't be the last one I do so I need to get this down. I believe I saw your method posted over at hotrodders website some time ago - I'll give it a...

Thanks - taking my time, learning along the way. Roof is good, I just need to feather the edges out more without altering the curved area (fun). It gets frustrating after your third or fourth...

So I'm filling the factory roof seam after cleaning and sandblasting - factory used some lead and some filler - I used short strand glass and finishing up with polyester. I'm having a real time with...

I got a few spots of "overspray" while sand blasting areas of the car - can these areas be sanded/buffed ? Any advise in the process ?

I have stripped roof best as possible (vinyl top car, so has "issues") , I have removed the majority of rust using various methods and Naval Jelly, etc. I am going to be blasting the pitted, black...

MARTINSR - thank you. All I'm getting is beat down for not "following procedure" ....... bad monkey, no banana for me. No one but MARTINSR has theorized what may have gone wrong. I followed...

I have been told by a number of individuals (both in person and on-line) that activator is not required for the Nason Ful-Base................... going forward I am not taking chances. Same goes for...

Lesson learned ...... thanks

I guess that's why I'm asking for thoughts. I have used the same procedures/products on two previous cars. Something went awry this time and I mentioned the only variables above. Bare metal / Omni...

Thoughts ?

Meant to add link to Dupont tech sheet:
...

Pretty much followed directions to a "T" with the exception of activator - just sprayed some base on another area (no clear) and will check it tomorrow for adhesion - if base without clear bonds with...

Please clarify "too long of a window before base was sprayed" . Thanks for your help. The primer (2K) was prepped with 4-600 grit and red scotch brite in difficult (tight) areas. I "tested" a couple...

I'll tackle it the "best" way down the road ........ my "poor sticking base" is an issue, obviously. Do I risk using what I have left ? Or using it but add activator ? Or pitch it and buy new ? So...

Did not take anything outside (no chance of contamination as I kept covered).

Washed/prepped well and allowed to dry at least 30 or more minutes.

Used tack cloth - lightly.

First coat of...

Sprayed trunk last week - had a scratch and "picked" at it, did a tape test and came off with no adhesion down to primer. Omni epoxy, then Omni 2K, sand 4-600, days later : Nason Ful Base with no...

How much activator to base ?

Thanks guys. So you add about how much ? Obviously there will then be a pot life, but I'm assuming it's hours.

I was fartin' around in the garage last week and squirted some base (Nason) on my current project to get a feel for what it would look like - I then shot some clear on part of the same area. I was...

Basically what I've found : urethane single stage and urethane clear basically the same without pigments (I should have clarified "urethane" ...... thanks.

... or close ? I'm asking because it is being recommended that I spray single stage over epoxy primer before vinyl top install (done this before) but I have none around but plenty of clear - thought...

Thanks for taking the time - I would NEVER use a "quickee" method on lower quarter, doorskins, rockers, etc. My issue is in a rear lower window channel with full access to both sides of the metal,...

I have no issues with cutting and placing patch panels when necessary (lower quarters, no access to back of panels, etc), and have done so. My question/comments are regarding smaller pin-holed (to...

I did the same on my last car BUT - the single stage wasn't a dead match with the BC/CC - not too noticeable .... used it in the trunk too

Can most any clear be tinted with any base ? If no, some guidance please. I have a "graphic intensive" motorcycle helmet in black/white/silver that I would like to spray with a translucent blue to...

Thanks - I know when the time comes (2-3 months) I'll need to make sure I remove ALL of the treatment.

I need to stop some flash rust and lighter rust until I can get to the sanding process - using an Ospho type product. I'd like to wipe the whole car down - how long can I leave the acid based product...

My current project was purchased all stripped from previous owner - the roof seam (Mopar) has been cleaned out of all factory filler - this will need to be re-filled by me. My question is since the...

Thanks all ...... car has been garaged, driven (exposed) only a dozen times or so but still want to play it safe.

I have a car that was epoxy primed and driven occasionally for about a year now, no rust, etc. Primer still looks good overall. I'm ready to pick a color and base/clear. What would the steps be at...

A donor jamb won't be hard to find - but I don't have the skills for this (yet) .... thanks

Really nice body on this 73 Roadrunner other than this in driver side jamb. How is this repaired properly ? What caused it ? Any other issues I should check on behind this area ?

Okay ..... back on topic guys. Should I go 600 to be safe ? Quality single stage or BC/CC ?

"Silverado" - are you referring to a car wash ..... or an F150 ! :scratchch:scratchch

Looking for a good quality black single stage for my daily driven F150. May see occasional drive through car washes and plenty of bug guts. Didn't know if there's one with a good rep or should I be...

The vehicle (F150) will be my daily driver - I'm thinking a good quality single stage black urethane so ............... also will post question regarding best quality single stage black for daily...

I have quite alot of 800 sticky back paper given to me - would 800 dry on my DA be too fine to scuff the original paint for prep (not enough "tooth" ?) I wouldn't ask - but I've seen conflicting...

I have the clear - the mfg does not offer a flattening agent as it is an off-brand. Like to use what I have as I just need to squirt a couple coats on a hood. I would think any urethane based...

Can I add talcum powder to most any clear to flatten ? Any tips ?

Thanks for all the input - my wife and I installed the top a few months back - temp was in the 70's (this is Florida guys, sorry) Anyway I'm thinking the spray nozzle sputtered on me (3M cans) and I...

We installed my vinyl top a few months ago and I apparently missed adhesive in a couple of spots on the sail panel. small areas appear as "bubbles". 2-3 the size of a quarter and a couple much...

Thanks - I'll try the some of the System One. My thoughts were it may not be aggressive enough for fully cured finish (?) But I didn't consider using a different foam pad.

Car was painted about three months ago with base andNason 497 clear. I did all the sanding and buffing (System One) I can see some hazy looking areas , especially at night under lights. Whats the...

How long do i need to wait before gluing my trunk gasket back on (if at all) ? Nason 497 and 3M weatherstrip adhesive.

Car will see daylight 6-8 times a year so durability ain't an issue - I know I've read it's hard to cut/buff after too long.