Last items to purchase for full system - need advice

[rosskevin]

I'm trying to piece together the last pieces for a general use system, as well as paint system. Here is what I have today:

- husky 2 stage 80 gallon 175 psi
- ~25 ft 1/2" copper installed to one drop with drainage, split one air, one dryer
- devilbiss DAD500 Desiccant Air Dryer System
- devilbiss gti 3000 gun

Ok, now I've never painted before, but I think I'm on the right track with the tools so I can start learning. Here are some questions that are outstanding:

1. I don't use the high flow couplings, and cannot seem to find a standard coupling to fit the devilbiss dryer fitting va-542. Should I have a dedicated hose for painting, and use only high flow couplings? Should I convert everything including my air tools to high flow couplings (hopefully not necessary)?

2. What regulator/filter should I use for general purpose outlets? Where should it be placed in the system? Which model/brand is suitable? Devilbiss har-602?

3. If no regulator right off the compressor, is it safe to have the 1/2" copper pressurized 24/7/365?

Thanks for any of your help.

http://iverticalleap.com/shop-piping.gif

[doug]

Not sure on #1, but I'll take a stab at 2 and 3.

2: I like the 606B Sharpe units I got from Len. I think Devilbiss makes a similar unit if you're partial to their stuff. I put mine at the end of the run, right at the takeoff for each drop (http://sixty5short.chevytalk-supporter.org/misc/shop/airlines/pages/07.html). I've seen folks put one filter somewhere in their main feed so it filters the whole system, but I think one filter per drop probably works better. I figure the more distance between the compressor and the filter, the less water the filter has to deal with.

3: Schedule "L" is rated way above 175psi for burst pressure, you'll be fine. But, that being said, I'll admit that I turn off the ball valve feeding my system when I leave the shop. Last thing I want is a leak developing somewhere and cycling my compressor until it burns up.

Here's another thought I didn't think of, the IR guy turned me on to this. Unless you have a tool that requires 175psi, you can adjust down the pressure switch on your compressor to reduce the max psi. Most of my tools operate at 90psi, so my 175psi-capable compressor has been adjusted to operate between 115(cut-on) and 150(cut-off). There's some pressure drop in my system, so I didn't regulate all the way down to 90. Why force your compressor to build 175 every time it cycles if all you need is 150? Might be a negligible amount of wear-and-tear I'm saving, who knows- but it makes sense to me. Plus it would, in theory, help reduce the likelihood of developing leaks.

[70chevelle]

The highflow couplers will help your compressor work more efficiently with any of your tools. They are a good idea, but now a necessity. Same theory for your copper, 3/4" would be less constricting than 1/2", and only marginly more costly. Your first drop should be as far away from the compressor as possible, to help with condensation. Copper is more efficient than hose, so install a lot of drops, and use as little hose as possible. You should definitely have a ball valve off the compressor going into your lines so you don't have to drain the entire tank to work on your lines. Good Luck.

By the way, I don't leave my system pressurized. I drain my tank and lines at the end of the day. I definitely don't leave my compressor on at the end of the day. With a true 5 hp motor at 23 -25 amps, if you have a problem with the cut in/out switch, safety valve, or your lines, the motor will run until it is red hot.

[Phil V]

My black iron air lines have for all practical puposes been pressurized 24/7 for the last 22 years with no negative effects. I never drain the tank on my Quincy at the end of the day. I do shut it off at the end of the day and turn it back on in the morning. I'm not a big fan of hi-flo fittings in 99% of applications. I don't use them in my shop and I've never worked in a shop that had hi-flow fittings. Every air tool I've ever used including many different spray guns have never suffered any ill effects due to not enought air delivery through normal air lines. If any system is so restricted that it needs hi-flo fittings then there are some serious design errors/constrictions in that air delivery system.

[RCA]

Use a regulator like Doug says,you do not need full psi at each drop and install a filter,regulator and drain valve at each drop.I installed a inline oiler on one drop and use that drop for all my air tools,the other drops are for painting,sand blasting and the plasma cutter.I use red hoses for the drops that have the oiler and yellow hoses for the drops with no oil so I don't get them mixed up.

[rosskevin]

Thanks for all the feedback. I'm not partial to any brand, I don't have enough experience to be. One issue though: it seems that I don't have to use the high flow couplers, but I cannot find any coupler to fit the devilbiss dryer. Anyone have a link to an adapter or any kind of solution?

Thanks again.

[Len]

The DAD-500 should have come with a 1/2" ball valve on the output side. If this is the case you should be able to put a standard or hi-flow coupler wih female thread right on the output threads then attach your hose right to the coupler. If it didn't come with the ball valve you'll need to find some type of adapter or purchase the valve.