Need fast Help!!!!

[elcameeeno]

I am painting my car today. I am using a sharpe platinum gun. It came with a 1.1 tip which was not big enough so I ordered a 1.3 tip. The problem is that the 1.1 tip sprays pretty good, its just too small. When I install the 1.3 tip it blows pressure up into the cup blowing the top off and shoot paint out the vent. I put the 1.1 back in and it works fine. I noticed the 1.3 has like a rubber coating over the tip. Is that supposed to be there or is it supposed to be removed? Its the only thing I can think of, but don't want to remove it and ruin the tip if it is supposed to be there.

What the heck am I doing wrong!?

[recoatlift]

i had 2 sharpe platinum guns. the one for clear was 1.1 & i used the 1.3 for base. neither had that rubber coating. of course, these guns i had was back in 97. i think it's a protective coating on that 1.3 & can safley be removed. think about it. as much thinner is used to clean a gun, rubber wouldn.t hold up very well. can u peel it off with ur fingernails?

[elcameeeno]

I tried peeling it off, it didn't want to come off which is why I was hesitant to remove it. Could that cause the back pressure up into the cup?

[recoatlift]

i hope the link opens. the show the part lift but don't mention a coating on the nozzle. when you get to the sharpe site....look around til you find the platinum guns. there seems to be a choice of 2. i'm wondering if i had the 1st gun cuz' it was almost 11 yrs. ago.
link:http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Page/Spray+Gun+Manuals

[elcameeeno]

I found that by removing the gasket under the aircap it stops the back pressure. The problem is now its spitting and as a result I have a ton of runs to sand out and respray. Anyone got any ideas as to what is going on?

Something is not right.

[Len]

The Platinum, like other Sharpe guns has a gasket (o-ring) that seats when the tip is tightened. This o-ring tends to come out when you remove the tip but it's easily reinstalled however it must be replaced the same direction it came out. When the o-ring is removed you can see that the seat has made it bevel and if you put it in backwards it will not seat properly. This will cause the problem you're having with air blowing back into the paint stream. My guess is that removing the gasket behind the air cap lowers the pressure being forced into the paint stream but it's also causing the paint to atomize poorly. You should keep several of the o-rings in stock because you will need to replace them from time to time. If you need them let me know because I may have them.

As for the wax (or whatever) on the fluid tip... there should be nothing on the tip. It's made of stainless steel and that's all the material you should be seeing.

[elcameeeno]

This was a brand new gun so the o rings were unused. I will play with flipping them around and see if that makes any difference. I will also try and get that coating off the tip. I hope it doesn't ruin it!

I am determined to get good at this!

[Len]

This was a brand new gun so the o rings were unused. I will play with flipping them around and see if that makes any difference. I will also try and get that coating off the tip. I hope it doesn't ruin it!

I am determined to get good at this!

If the o-rings has not been removed and reinstalled then you should not flip it. Putting it in incorrectly will destroy it. You're better off just replacing it, it's cheap.

[elcameeeno]

I have a new one that came with the new tip.I'll just use it. I did figure out the coating on the tip however. It is actually a nylon tip that is threaded on. I was able to unscrew it and confirm it. So I am back the gasket being the culprit for the spitting. I will just have to play with it some tomorrow.

[elcameeeno]

Well, this didn't turn out like I had hoped. My gun problems caused a bunch of big old nasty runs. Oh well, it was a practice car. But never the less, I need to fix it. Here are my questions. I used SS Acrylic Urethane. What is the best method for getting the runs out and preparing the car for another coat of paint?

Wet sand? Hit it with a DA? How long should I let it dry before I sand? Just what is the best path forward here? (Short of burning it to the ground!)

Anyone been in this position?

[Len]

The runs should be shaved off not sanded. The lease expensive but most dangerous way is to drag a single edge blade across them but the best way that we found is to use a Nib File which levels the run then it's block sanded. We sand using Run Blockers but it can be done using other types of small blocks. You can check out our method by clicking the link below.


http://autobodystore.com/runfile.jpg
Run Repair Link (http://autobodystore.com/run_repair.shtml)