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View Full Version : Zero Rust, Rust Bullet, or por-15?



Reamer
03-14-2006, 08:27 AM
Hi All
Getting ready to do the inside of the doors on my '48 Ford, (using the process shown here) After the patch panel, Seam sealer, which might be better, Zero Rust, Rust bullet, or even por-15?
Thanks
Ron

AlexeiVT
03-14-2006, 09:30 AM
I would probably apply whatever "paint-like" coating, over the backside of the patch, prior to seam sealing it, as the liquid will get into the crevices better to coat things.

Given the choices, I'd probably opt for Rust-Bullet (and if you can spend a little extra by first putting down a coat of Picklex, then it at least gives me the best peace of mind).

The Rust Bullet dries throroughly...you might even want to consider Master Series (as that too, is an air dried urethane that I've heard satisfied results from users). That's what I ended up using in my doors, and would do so again. Basically left a nice uniform tough and well adhered plastic layer.

POR-15, while I've personally not experienced any product failures using it on crusty soaked floorboards...nevertheless, in reading up on other peoples experiences, seems like I lucked out, and my following the simple directions actually made things work just fine. (One reason I'd not use POR again, is because when I sprayed clear over freshly sanblasted metal, and let that project sit for quite some time, I noticed tiny spider webs of rust underneath...I'm sure things would've adhered, but I certainly didn't like the fact that there now was rust where the previously wasn't, and I'd have never known any different if I used a pigmented color).

Zero-Rust, that's going to be the least expensive of the bunch, simple to apply (I'd recommend spraying it, or buying aerosol), and less toxic than any of the urethanes (but still, protect your lungs regardless of what you spray). It dries softer (in my experiences) and takes longer to do so (brushing it on, would make for even longer drying times).

After whatever "paint", you'd be well served to spray something like "Wax-oil" or cavity wax down along the lower edges...keep an eye on the window fuzzies,and your door should hold up even to submersion.

There are so many products out there to choose from. Along w/ all that, there is a fair amount of time and money spent successfully marketing both good and products. Even supposedly "independent" lab test...if you look at enough of them, you'll find them skewed to any particular product doing the promotion. Some things you luck out w/, some repairs are never tested in a manner that reveals much about them as things are better cared for. There are still relatively obsolete products out there, that people defend, since they've had success w/ them for a long time...so how can you argue against that.

Basically, at least entertain the thought that though products may appear to be fairly similar, there are differences among them that are significant, and affect their end goal (protection). Just like epoxy or etch primers, to call them all basically the same would be unfair, and to call the high-end ones overpriced solely to pay for marketing, would also be unjustified.

Len
03-14-2006, 11:04 AM
Rust Bullet, POR-15, Master Series (I think) and some others are all moisture cured urethanes developed during WWII and work quite similarly, they encapsulate the rust to stop moisture/oxygen from causing oxidation. I've found that all of these products work pretty much the same and the best seems to be the silver type of each.

Zero Rust is NOT a moisture cured urethate it actually air dries and since we started using it we've stopped using MCUs because they peel away from the rust plus are difficult to store and use. We apply Picklex 20 to stabilize the surface, allow it to dry then apply the Zero Rust. The ZR can be brushed or sprayed, it stores well and is an easy clean up and it costs less than MCU.


Zero Rust Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=6RCC)

Reamer
03-14-2006, 06:55 PM
O.K
Zero Rust it will be, Now Is it Picklex, ZR, then, Seam Sealer.
Or Picklex, Seam sealer, then ZR?
Thanks
Ron

Len
03-14-2006, 07:08 PM
In most cases I like putting primer or some protection under the seam sealer but it depends on how important it is to get it looking good. The best method would probably be to apply the Picklex 20 then your first coat of Zero Rust THEN the seam sealer then your second coat of ZR.

Reamer
03-14-2006, 07:59 PM
Thanks Len
It's a deal,
Picklex
ZR
Seam Sealer
ZR