View Full Version : question about sealer
82chevy
01-11-2008, 07:59 PM
i just recently sprayed sealer over my primer and im getting ready to paint the truck white. my question is should i sand down the sealer and if so what grit should i be using?? thanks for any help
recoatlift
01-11-2008, 09:23 PM
mention a recoat window? if u've went past the recoat time, u'll probably need to use a gray 3m scuff pad...it's about 600 grit. did u use a 2k sealer?
82chevy
01-11-2008, 10:32 PM
im actually not to sure what a 2k sealer is. does that mean that its two parts? in that case then no. its made by nason
Barry
01-12-2008, 04:56 AM
82 chevy:
i'm guessing you used the acrylic sealer, the nason system suggests a "wet on wet" application. When using a sealer i always treat it as my first coat when painting, you'll get that good chemical bond instead of a mechanical bond. the nason p sheet calls for a "scuff and re-apply" if the sealer dried overnight. The link below is for dupont coatings...just choose "products" in the right hand corner, then "nason" on the left hand side....it will give you all the info you need....good luck
Barry
http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.com/bowstreet5/webengine/dpc/common/Controller/Action!_pageDispatcher/InnerModel!dpc/modules/Login/OuterModel!dpc/common/Controller/InnerAction!visitorAction
recoatlift
01-12-2008, 10:41 AM
im actually not to sure what a 2k sealer is. does that mean that its two parts? in that case then no. its made by nason
there....now u have enough info to be dangerous!
82chevy
01-12-2008, 11:23 AM
so i should apply one more coat of sealer on then paint it while its still wet? i cant just scuff it then paint on my color?? i have enough to seal it one more time. i was going to paint the jams before i painted the whole body because i have the doors and fenders off the truck right now anyways
Barry
01-12-2008, 12:51 PM
82 chevy:
You can clean then scuff then tack then spray your paint....but if you follow the p sheets...it says reapply if left overnight for "best performance" flash time is 10 minutes (or so) before you put your first coat of paint on....its the difference between a "chemical" bond and a "mechanical" bond. Its your choice of how you want to do it.....i personally follow the p sheet advice for "best performance".....good luck
Barry
Im with Barry, plus its alot less work. I dont seal untill Im ready for the color. The sealer is essencially the 1st color coat
billyr
01-12-2008, 04:45 PM
not wanting to hijack this thread but,i'm using a 2k uretane sealer,also nason does the same apply for this type of sealer.it mixies 4:1 with an activater.
82chevy
01-12-2008, 04:58 PM
yea i guess i just got to excited and should of waited until i was ready for paint. this isnt a show car, it just a regular pickup truck that ill be using for work. i still want it to be decent looking. will the paint job suffer that i sprayed the sealer a couple of days before i painted it? and also in the sealer there are a couple of dust particles that are under it. what grit should i sand this with? and should i wet sand it or just dry sand it? thanks for all your help guys
Steve g
01-12-2008, 05:54 PM
I would sand it exactly as you had finished up just before you applied the sealer. In my regime that's 600 wet for metalic base 4-500 for solids. This will remove the nibs as well. If they're really bad knock the top off with something a little more severe, but just the top. I'm not sure there'd be any benefit to re-applying the sealer just before your basecoat. You are still relying on a mechanical bond between the current sealer and the fresh selaer which is probably no better than the mechanical bond between the current sealer and the basecoat. It will add to the film build tho, which is not a good thing.
Steve g
82chevy
01-12-2008, 06:33 PM
thanks for the help. its going to be a single stage arctic white. the nibs arnt to bad so ill just wet sand it with 400. is there any benefit to wet sand it instead of dry sanding? from what i understand wet sanding doesn't take as much material of and uses less paper. thanks again for all your help
recoatlift
01-13-2008, 08:35 AM
as far as which removes the most material...i don't know...i've never read which removes more mils.....no matter what, your gonna have to blow that surface off & re-tack....DO NOT RE-CLEAN THE SEALER with a pre-cleano! b sure to open that tack rag up, shake it, and form it in the shape of a ball....do u use basecoat tack rags?
82chevy
01-13-2008, 12:28 PM
yes ive used them to clean off the surface but i must have had dirt and dust on my clothes
recoatlift
01-13-2008, 03:32 PM
to control trash, you'd be sailin' around on the Love Boat forever! even shops with the best booths, equipt., tacking off air hoses, & painters in moonsuits get trash in jobs. just the nature of the beast. all we can really do is try to be as sterile as a hospital. good luck blowin' that color. i know u'll do a fine job!
82chevy
01-13-2008, 03:50 PM
haha thanks. im pretty confident that it will come out good
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