bonding over rust treatments

[garyRI]

I need to cut out some rust & intend to use an epoxy bonding product to replace the cut out area.

The vehicle is a "summer car" IH Scout II with the typical horrible rot problems, but I have had it for awhile & it has suffered the indignity of my poor body work/mig welding & is useable.

In this case I would prefer not to be too generous cutting out (loosing) the old metal. If I use one of the acid based rust converter products (that turn the rust black), can I bond on top of it?

[Len]

Some rust treatments are almost like paint and some will convert the rust but I don't know if I'd use either under "metal bonding" products because you usually want bare metal for that process. I would probably grind or blast the metal clean then use bonding materials in direct contact with the metal then use a good seam sealer over the seams.


http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/110B_111B_small.jpg
Metal Bonding Products Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FUS1&Category_Code=MB)
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/fusor800.jpg
Seam Sealer Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FUSSS&Category_Code=JASS)

[MARTINSR]

I do a lot of bonding on late model collision repair. I really think a lot of people miss the boat on this technology. Bonding in a patch panel is one of the best uses for these products as far as I am concerned.

There are some that want an epoxy primer applied, but most as Len pointed out want you to apply to clean, ground metal.

Brian

[PetesPonies]

I still like Master Series urethane paint. I have never had a failure with it. Do not think it is POR. I would use it in the instance you are talking about if the metal you want to keep is suspect.