Serge
11-09-2007, 12:43 AM
I had a long talk with a guy at the Evercoat booth. The guy was very technical and shead some light on the products...it was an enlightening talk...In a nutshell I just wanted to share what I learned from him...
First, I did not get a definitive answer to the filler over epoxy issue...funny, even they don't seem to care much...
Now, on the products...
One thing I learned is that they use resins with different molecular weight in different products. So, the higher end products get the higher molecular weight resins. He explained to me that a higher molecular weight simply meant that it has more crosslinked atoms per weight...each of those crosslinked atoms can act as a hook to either other atoms or the substrate (the metal)...so it sticks better...So...
Rage, rage gold and rage extreme and easy sand....high molecular weight resins
Z-Grip and other low cost.......Low molecular weight resins...
Another thing about higher molecular resins is that they reach their non shrink point faster that is they harden more in the first moment of the chemical reaction while the lower weight ones take longer to fully cure.
Polyester primers.......................................
On polyester primers, I basically asked him what the difference was between slick sand and feather fill...
Slick sand
Slick sand is realy a sprayable putty. It has a self etching effect on bare metal so it is the best to use on bare metal (although featherfill is ok on metal too...). It's the most building of the bunch. So, as polyester primers are concerned, slick sand is it...
Feather fill G2
This one is realy their attempt at the 2K primer market. It was designed to hopefully replace some polyurethane primers...At least that was his explanation. It was formulated to flow better an to be less filling than slick sand...I can attest to the fact it flows better than slick sand and it builds a little less...but in my book it fills much more than most poly primers...anyhow, that's the official story...
A few questions on Polyflex.......................................... ...........
I asked him what they meant by flame treating plastics before using polyflex...Well, he said it's simply licking the plastic surface with the flame of a propane torch taking care not to burn or heat up the plastic. The idea is simply to expose the surface to the open flame without melting or heating up the plastic.
He said that that provided better adhesion than adhesion promoters. The reason that adhesion promoters don't work as well is that they have a tendency to shrink out of the sand scratch as they are mostly solvant based 1k products. So when you put polyflex on top, you actually create a layer that shrinks more than the polyflex will creating a lesser bond than if it was left to stick to the flamed surface...
.................................................. .............................................
That's it...hope this helps...
First, I did not get a definitive answer to the filler over epoxy issue...funny, even they don't seem to care much...
Now, on the products...
One thing I learned is that they use resins with different molecular weight in different products. So, the higher end products get the higher molecular weight resins. He explained to me that a higher molecular weight simply meant that it has more crosslinked atoms per weight...each of those crosslinked atoms can act as a hook to either other atoms or the substrate (the metal)...so it sticks better...So...
Rage, rage gold and rage extreme and easy sand....high molecular weight resins
Z-Grip and other low cost.......Low molecular weight resins...
Another thing about higher molecular resins is that they reach their non shrink point faster that is they harden more in the first moment of the chemical reaction while the lower weight ones take longer to fully cure.
Polyester primers.......................................
On polyester primers, I basically asked him what the difference was between slick sand and feather fill...
Slick sand
Slick sand is realy a sprayable putty. It has a self etching effect on bare metal so it is the best to use on bare metal (although featherfill is ok on metal too...). It's the most building of the bunch. So, as polyester primers are concerned, slick sand is it...
Feather fill G2
This one is realy their attempt at the 2K primer market. It was designed to hopefully replace some polyurethane primers...At least that was his explanation. It was formulated to flow better an to be less filling than slick sand...I can attest to the fact it flows better than slick sand and it builds a little less...but in my book it fills much more than most poly primers...anyhow, that's the official story...
A few questions on Polyflex.......................................... ...........
I asked him what they meant by flame treating plastics before using polyflex...Well, he said it's simply licking the plastic surface with the flame of a propane torch taking care not to burn or heat up the plastic. The idea is simply to expose the surface to the open flame without melting or heating up the plastic.
He said that that provided better adhesion than adhesion promoters. The reason that adhesion promoters don't work as well is that they have a tendency to shrink out of the sand scratch as they are mostly solvant based 1k products. So when you put polyflex on top, you actually create a layer that shrinks more than the polyflex will creating a lesser bond than if it was left to stick to the flamed surface...
.................................................. .............................................
That's it...hope this helps...