During buffing get dark colored gummy deposits

[keb1]

During buffing (Using 3M Finese III with foam pad)
I keep getting gummy deposits.
Look and remove like rubber cement. (use my finger and they rub & fall right off )
Question - What are they ?
Am I doing something wrong ?
I am keeping the speed to 1,500 rpm
Am I supposed to keep the pad parallel with the surface or a slight angle ?

[Jon E]

Just ignore it and keep buffing. When you're done, wipe it down with a microfiber towel and it will all come off leaving a nice shiny finish.

Its my favirote part of the buff job. :)

[Len]

During buffing (Using 3M Finese III with foam pad)
I keep getting gummy deposits.
Look and remove like rubber cement. (use my finger and they rub & fall right off )
Question - What are they ?
Am I doing something wrong ?
I am keeping the speed to 1,500 rpm
Am I supposed to keep the pad parallel with the surface or a slight angle ?

It's probably because the polish is being applied too heavily and is starting to dry becoming thick. You can try dampening the pad with some water, using less polish and rotating the pad more slowly. One of the things I like about Sure Finish is that it doesn't build up like that on the surface because this build up can cause inconsistencies in the buffing. With Sure Finish you use less polish and your finish is very consistant.

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/SF1.jpg
Sure Finish Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SF&Category_Code=M3)

[Jon E]

Len,

Ive been doing some experimenting with the Sure Finish and some other compounds and Ive found that it works well to apply a liberial ammount of compound and slowly work it in and letting it build up the greasy smear like KEB was talking about, then spritsing the whole pannel with water to soften it back up and then buff it out all over again.

By having more water in the mix and less "abrasives", it seems to cut a little finer and makes for a better finish.

[keb1]

I just knew that would happen.
I would have liked to have tried out adding the water tip you gave.
But..I just finished buffing (3M Finese III)
then applying (Meguiars Show Car Glaze).
-
Question for anyone that can help?
After applying the Glaze,
the paint shop I buy from said not to apply wax or polish.
They said the B/C I shot is only 3 weeks old.
It needs more cure time.
Am I actually done ?

[Robert]

If you're happy, your done. I'm beginning to think wax is almost a waste of time as far as protecting the paint is concerned. I don't think there's any wax that goes on thick enough or is hard enough to be better than the paint itself. Wax does cover scratches and it can make the paint look "wet," and might keep dirt from sticking, which is probably the most important benefit, but as far as making the paint last longer... I just don't think so.

Modern paints, for the most part, harden more than they dry. The only problem I've seen lately when a car was waxed right after it came out of the booth was a little die back that buffed right off. I buffed out a really nice Alfa the other day and the shop had me wax it too. It had been painted two days before.

Take Care,
Robert

[Len]

Here in the northeast I think that wax offers the best protection against industrial fallout/acid rain. Without wax the water laying on the surface can etch the paint causing spots that are quite difficult to remove. With wax the acid water usually won't effect the finish.