View Full Version : Large trunk gap
09-05-2007, 08:12 PM
The trunk lid on my MGB is so much smaller than the opening creating a large gap all the way around. The obvious solution is to either make the opening smaller or extend the lip of the trunk lid. How is this done? Or is there a better way to tighten up the gap?
09-05-2007, 11:08 PM
What kind of gap did the car have when it left the factory ? Logically the deck lid didn't shrink over the last 40 years and its safe to assume the hole that the deck lid fits in didn't stretch over the last 40 years. If the car did not receive extensive rear end collision damage then the gaps are probably correct. No your correct or my correct but apparently it was MG's correct at the time.
09-06-2007, 03:15 PM
regardless of whether the gap is correct or not. How would one change the gap in this case? This is a technical question.
Most US cars have panes that have an inner frame with an outer skin folded over the inner frame at the edges. With this type of panel you can weld metal along the edge to make the edge extend a little further to fill the gap.
With many foreign cars the skin can be all that there is and it may have almost no frame. This usually means that the edge is bent down at a 90 degree angle and you can't really add to the edge and have it look good. If this is the case on your car you may need to FILL the gap from the outside by grinding on the edges of the hole and applying a moisture resistant filler like fiberglass paste to help close the gap.
09-06-2007, 06:25 PM
Thank you. The MGB trunk lid seems to conform to the US method of skin on frame. Adding metal to this lip sounds like the way to go. A body shop replaced some of the major rear panels and the guy claimed that the MGB had large gaps(I'm talking 3/8-7/16). I know this is not the case but it was all I could do to get the insurance company not to total the car. Now I wish I'd taken the money. Thanks again.
09-06-2007, 06:39 PM
Now... Do I fold a piece of metal of the same gage to look like the original edge and carefully weld to the lip to fit the opening or use a thick strip of metal to extend the edge and grind to fit the opening? What is usually done in this case?
09-06-2007, 08:30 PM
Carstoomany, you neglected to mention in your first post that the MG car sustained some serious rear end collision damage and that it was poorly repaired by a hack bodyshop. Good luck on your project.
09-07-2007, 01:35 PM
Thanks Phil. I realize people like to hear the story behind the question otherwise is a pretty dry QandA. Sorry. Actually this guy was far from being a hack. We did just did not agree on proper gap other wise all the alignment was perfect (dual plane 3 axis). While waiting for the new rear panels he repaired my front fender that was crumpled in the front corner and headlight bucket. I had been looking for a good used replacement with no luck. I was amazed. No bondo no lead. Like new. He saw the opportunity to get some practice with the old school metal bumping method and hoped I didn't mind. DUHH.
Part of Len's suggestion was that metal can be added to the lip of the trunk. Do you think I should fold over a strip of sheet metal and weld it to the lip to make it appear like the original lip or go with a double thick solid strip and grind to fit?
09-07-2007, 05:15 PM
I'd go with the solid strip............
09-07-2007, 06:44 PM
Thanks. Solid strip it is. Easiest to adjust I imagine.
What’s your 56? I'm a ford guy myself. 69 T-bird, 68 Cougar, 41 truck, 00 Lincoln continental and 01 super crew 4x4 truck.
09-07-2007, 06:56 PM
I've got a '56 Ford Sedan that's my daily driver, also have 1921, 1929, 1930, 1931 Fords too.
My long term project is a '61 Corvette that I'm building. It was a former drag car that got butchered up for wheel tubs and rollbar.
Good to see another Ford guy on here!
09-15-2007, 09:30 PM
I have MIG welded steel welding rod to panel edges to close up gaps. On my sons mustang with bad repo fenders I used flux coated rod (with the flux broken off by bending it). I used 1/8 and 3/16 where needed then ground the edge to get the required panel gaps. A little filler on top but left the edge as steel (the rod) so it would not have any filler to chip.
You can grind and taper the gaps from the thickness of the rod right down to the original panel edge, try that with folded sheet metal and you will grind thru the fold.
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