View Full Version : 1st Post: Mustang Door Options


C. Alan
08-14-2007, 10:28 PM
I am in the process of restoring a '67 mustang coupe. I am sanding off all the existing paint, and in the process, I discovered that the rear door frame on the passenger side was full of bondo. Well, I used a blow torch, and scraped off most of the bondo. Now the door gap is pretty messed up, and I am going to have to do some repair work to get it back in line.

Now I am trying to think of how exactly I am going to repair the door panel.

So far I have come up with 3 options:

1. Redo the bondo. This is not my favorite options, mainly due to the fact that there are a lot of irregular surfaces I am going to have to try to match.

2. Replace the entire rear quarter panel. I would like to do this option, but I have never welded before. I hear that I could get the job done with a small mig welder, and they are not that hard to use. The other issue is the seam at the roof would have to be redone. This actually would not be a really big deal to me because I am planning on putting a vinyl roof on the car anyway.

3. Get a quarter skin, and just redo the front of the pannel. This kinda scares be because I would have a but weld joint running from the rear corner of the vent window down to the wheel well.

Does anyone else have any suggestions or ideas?

C. Alan
Here is a picture of door jam area:

08-14-2007, 10:44 PM
I'd just fix the front part and not replace the entire quarter unless there's other issues with the quarter.

A MIG welder will work tho you need to watch your heat. Or you could try some of the panel bonding adhesives like Fusor if you're uncomfortable using a MIG.

Instead of butting the 2 pieces.. flange one piece and sit the other panel on the flange.
I'll post some pics later as I'm going thru this very thing on a '57 Chevrolet.

C. Alan
08-14-2007, 11:37 PM
A MIG welder will work tho you need to watch your heat. Or you could try some of the panel bonding adhesives like Fusor if you're uncomfortable using a MIG.

Panel Bonding Adhesive? I have never heard of such a product. I did a yahoo search for Fusor, and I found their website. Very interesting stuff. I will have to do some more research on the stuff.

Thanks very much for the tip.

08-15-2007, 12:28 AM
Len sells Fusor stuff too...
Just go to the Store link on top of the page here.

08-15-2007, 07:44 PM
If the damaged area is that part in front of the side vents I would probably just replace that area using the backing strip method. When you use this method it's much easier to butt weld the metal and, with a little care, it comes out great. Check out the Road Runner quarter replacement we did using this method at the link below. We use this method for replacing entire quarters or for patching almost anywhere on the vehicle.

Road Runner Backing Strip Link (http://autobodystore.com/73rr.shtml)

Door Rust Repair Using Backing Strip - Link (http://autobodystore.com/door_rust.shtml)

C. Alan
08-15-2007, 09:11 PM
Thanks Len,
I will be picking up a new face panel this weekend. Unfotuantly, the damge goes up nearly to the window. I will have to replace the section under the window. I was planning on cutting the old panel off from the corner of the window down to the wheel well. That means I will have to cross at least on e major contour line.

One dumb question about your back panel technique. How big are the hole you punch for the spot welds?

C. Alan

08-15-2007, 10:53 PM
I think the hole punch tool that I use punches a 5/16" hole.

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/HTPPunFlgsm.jpg (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=HTP12005&Category_Code=HT)

If you cut your backing strip out of the metal you purchase OR out of the metal you remove it will be the exact shape that you need.

09-08-2007, 08:27 PM
I would also just fix the minor damage to the upper part of the quarter. really it is alot easier than replacing quarter. Looks to me like there is enough room to get a improvised tool or large slapping spoon into backside of quarter edge, then gently tap with hammer to ease out the edge. Then finish outside with body spoon and very little filler. I would even suggest using 70/30 lead for repair, if you know what you are doing.:brainiac:

09-08-2007, 10:21 PM
save and straighten the exsisting panel it will also help any possibly resale if it has the exsisting sheetmetal.i usually only replace if it's crushed beyond repair or just rusted so bad that patch panels just arent worth the effort
due to the extent of rust.so if it's solid sheetmetal then i would try and straighten what you have

10-03-2007, 10:03 PM
I'm with old timer It looks like you could get behind it with a spoon or a piece of flat bar and tap it out far enough to only need a little fill. You could also weld a strip of sheet metal to the corner and pull it out. sort of like you would with a stud gun.

10-04-2007, 12:37 AM
Sorry about not posting lately. I've been so busy trying to line up some small jobs in my garage, for when unemployment runs out, and not been approved till I get medical from S.S.D. doctors. Believe me, it is much better to try and push that dent out. If you do weld anything to it and pull it out, make sure before ya paint it that you put some undercoating on the backside of your repair. I had another bodyman friend of mine ask me that if I retire, would I sell my tools to him, I told him I don't think he could even afford the discounted price. As I own a 1978 C10 Big 10, and I work on my own vehicles. It is so hard to let go of what you built up for the past 42 years, almost $ 80,000.00 worth plus many homemade ones you will not find on the market. Empty toolboxes are worth 15 to 20 grand!:p