For Sure All Rust Is Gone?

[Seymour Butts]

Is there a simple way to make sure you got rid of all the rust? If I sand down a surface rust area and only see shiny metal, can I be sure I got it all? Or, is there a chance there is still rust even though I only see shiny metal?

By the way, I am working in refinishing a 1965 Mustang.

[Roch_Greg]

I've never heard of any chemical test that could be done, a microscope would be the only thing I could think of to look at the metal to tell if it's really all gone.

If you've gotten down to clean metal and cleaned/treated that metal with a product like Picklex-20 that will neutralize/remove any remaining rust that may be microscopic then you've gone as far as I think you can go.

The only way I know for sure other than those mentioned at the beginning is time. I know your hoping to avoid this, but if you didn't get it all or there is rust on the back side of the metal for sure it will bubble back under the new coatings.

That and cutting the rusted metal out.

Greg

[myMustang]

I don't know what to say except that man, you must hate rust just as much as I do! That's probably the reason that what was an OK paint job is covered in splotches of 89 cent spraycan primer after I've put down the angle grinder. :D

FWIW, all my spot rust has been taken off with a wire wheel, then I go around the spot until I see shiny metal, and then I keep cleaning the rust spot until it's as good as I can get it with the wire wheel, and then prime with the cheapest stuff I can find (temporary). I intend to take all the spots to bare metal, feather the edges and try to sand out more rust pitting by hand, then scuff the existing paint and prime-seal the entire car.
HTH
--Kyle

[Seymour Butts]

Well, I am one of those people that doesn't like to do things twice. I am going to take time restoring this 1965 Mustang and make sure I get most of the rust off if possible.

When you grind down an area to shiny metal that has rust, do you plan to fill it with filler or fill it in with solder?

[myMustang]

I hear you there, I'm trying to do the same myself, especially when it comes to rust. I saw a very nice '66 like mine at a show, it had a fridge-white paint job that was maybe 2 years old, and the front corners of both doors were bubbling up already! :mad: Trying to avoid that :D

I'm not grinding down the rust, I'm using a 4.5" knotted cup wire wheel on an angle grinder, which doesn't seem to be taking off much metal at all, so I hope I can get away with just a little glazing filler. Lead, while probably the best if you know what you're doing, is still lead (will shorten your lifespan) and modern fillers are good enough that the debate is moot IMHO. The angle grinder mounted wire wheel works great too.
Hope this helps
-Kyle

[Len]

The best way to repair a rusted area is to sand blast rust that ISN'T through the metal then fill the rust divots with a good filler before priming. If the rust is through the metal then cut off the weakened metal and weld in new metal. The link below will show you how we typically replace rusted metal by welding in a backing strip and patch panel. While this link shows a door repair we do most of our patching this way.


http://autobodystore.com/Truckdr8.jpg
Rust Repair Link (http://autobodystore.com/door_rust.shtml#)

[Seymour Butts]

Thanks for that tutorial link. It looks very helpful.

[nickp]

Be sure to totally check behind that panel. if the back side is rusted, it will creap throught again over time.